Where can I get a dovetail saw sharpened?

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DuncanA

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I've gradually been restoring a lot of old hand tools that used to belong to my Grandpa, with the aim of setting up a versatile tool-chests worth of tools.

When it comes to saws, however, I have one 22tpi Disston dovetail saw that I can't get sawing nicely. I did try sharpening it after reasonable success with coarser saws, but with such fine teeth - even with magnification - I expect I've made things worse :oops: . It cuts well enough, but gets trapped frequently, and I'm reluctant to keep making adjustments in case I make things worse still.

Can anyone recommend any saw doctors in the UK who I could post this saw to to get a good sharpening? Hopefully it will be easier to maintain (after more practice on coarser saws) if it starts with well shaped teeth, instead of repairing something that's already a bit wonky. I've had a bit of a look locally (Central Scotland) but with no success.

Very best,
 
If its getting trapped I doubt its a sharpness issue. Have you set the teeth correctly? Is the saw plate kinked/twisted/bowed? If the teeth are correctly set I would say that you either have a kink or a twist in the saw plate. How far do you get into the wood before it starts to bind?

Matt
 
They aren't that difficult to 'touch up' but tooth reshaping might be a bit more challenging. Before I started sharpening my own saws I sent a similar TPI saw to Thomas Flinn in Sheffield. Before I posted it they informed me that if the teeth were badly mishapen they would just put a new blade in it. Kind of makes you think that it isn't the easiest of tasks. Actually the teeth of my saw were in excellent shape, it really just needed a couple of strokes to each gullet. It came back sharp but with a couple of strange looking teeth :shock: Wasn't cheap either but half the cost was the postage. Understandably the postage cost included the time packing etc.
It may be touch and go on pure economical grounds, especially if the teeth are poor and in need of setting + the postage both ways.
 
I got a surprise last week with my old dovetail saw, I put some beeswax along the blade , it then cut the dovetails almost on its own. It just glided though the timber like cutting butter without any pressure. Had not used it for around three years.
 
Thanks for the responses chaps.

The saw will cut about 1/8" into some 3/4" white oak (possibly not the best tester, but what I have to hand at the moment) before it really starts to stick - and does have a very slight kink about half an inch from the toe of the saw.

I'll have another go at setting the saw (although I found that the hardest bit of the sharpening process, with those tiny teeth I kept loosing track of where I was). I did give it some set, but not much as I was told a rip saw didn't require much (if any), so I'll also increase the amount I give it. I'll also try out the beeswax tip and see how it goes.

If after that I'm still struggling to get it cutting well I'll send off some emails to the people mentioned above.

Many thanks.
 
Rip shouldn't need as much set as a cross cut but if its starting to bind then apply it little by little until it cut freely. Also as mentioned a quick rub of wax will do no harm. Every saw is different when it comes to set its just a case of doing a test cut and adjusting where required. Saws that don't have any set have taper ground plates so the plate is thicker at the bottom than at the top so there is no need to set the teeth.

Hope that helps.

Matt
 
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