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When a SIP 01332 becomes a jet jts250 wip

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Rknott2007

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Been fiddling around with my sliding carriage for my sip, fed up of lifting it on and off all the time, and the constant resquaring of the fence I decided to try and fix the spare cast iron wing to the sliding table like the jts250.
Ive removed the ally table so just the bracket slides along the rail and lowered it to suit the cast iron wing.

This is how far I have got.









The cast iron wing is just clamed into position at the moment, need to try and think of a way to attach the bracket to the wing, I'm thinking drill throught the wing, and bolt countersunk bolts stright through, does anyone have any suggestions or advice on this?

I.m going to be drilling and tapping the wing with m10 holes to fix the fence in position and various jigs, in various positions so that the whole thing can be used for the router table aswell.



I'm not from an engineering background the only metal work I've done is when I made my cyclone. I would also appreciate ideas on how to fix the wing from sliding when I'm not using the saw for x-cutting.

I'd also like to give all the cast a good polish up, does anyone have any good tips for this?
I'd appreciate any input guys.

Cheers
Rob
 

siggy_7

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Do you have a means of levelling the sliding mechanism independently of the attachment between the "new" cast iron table and the sliding mechanism beneath? In which case a few (4-6) counter-sunk machine screws around M8 size driven into appropriate points into the sliding carriage underneath would do the trick nicely I would think. I would suggest creating a lug somewhere in the slider underneath the table and have a quick-release pin that fits into the lug when you want to lock the table in position - have a look at my thread on assembling my table saw to see how it's done on my Record (I also took a couple of close-ups of how the sliding beam mounts to the saw if this helps you with mounting the table).

Regarding giving the table a clean-up, it looks in reasonable nick from your photos so shouldn't take much effort. Try some WD40 and scotchbrite - give it a reasonably vigorous but quick scrub, don't let it dry out as you're scrubbing. Remove the paste with some rags and the table should be smooth and shiny beneath. Then protect with something - I recommend Liberon Lubricating wax, just apply a film and leave it to dry for 15 mins or so, and re-coat periodically to keep the smoothness and protection.
 

jetsetwilly

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This looks cool, how did you get on with it?

Looks like you're in a regular garage there - I wondered about a slider for my sip but decided the beam would take up too much space. (my garage is 19x9ft). How do you find it?
 

rdesign

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Hey I know this was a year ago! i just bought the saw second hand got the lot for 500. my saw blade is not exactly parallel with my mitre slots how can I adjust this as the blade is connected to the cast iron top and not the frame. Would be very interested to see the rest of your pics and how u got on was thinking of changing the sliding table material so i can have the rail extend behind the saw rather than in the way infront of it which is a pet hate. on the original slider theirs no method to mount the fence on the front of the sliding carriage hence why i'm thinking of doing what you are doing with the saw blade. Hope it worked for you and interested to hear tour experience
Regards Richard
 

rdesign

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Thanks for that I thought that would do it but manuals never mention it being out of align :)
 

Steve Maskery

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There are several stages of alignment to be gone through. That is the first one. I did a complete setup of mine on WE7.
S
 
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