What width for a belt sander?

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Eric The Viking

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I'm after a decent Makita belt sander - not the really heavy duty ones but a pro- model, nonetheless.

They do two at almost the same price:

9404: 4"/100mm, variable speed

9903: 75mm, variable speed

Apart from the belt width they look identical.

I haven't owned one before. Is there a reason to go for the 75mm one particularly? I can imagine the wider one might be slightly easier to use as it should tend to dig in less, but, as I said, I know nothing...

Advice appreciated.

E.
 
Amazing what search turns up :wink: :D I was going to suggest going for whichever lets you use a sanding frame but see you already asked the question!
 
I went for the 3" about 12 years ago and have not regretted it, the 4" was a bit big and heavy for what I use it for as some times I use it on site, that said it gets used on a fair bit of joinery work.

Once you use it for a while the old back plays up a bit so for me a bigger one was too much.

As long as you keep moving it about the work piece it wont dig in etc. It is worth getting a good make as you will use it more and more.

Merlin
 
Thanks both.

You're right Roger - I didn't have the dosh to get one before (I probably shouldn't now!).

Both take sanding frames, I think, but the few places that do stock the frames in the UK seem to be very confused about what they're made of. I'm morally certain I've seen reference to "platinum alloy"and "solid silver" and "tungsten-tipped gold".

The sanding frames are two rods, four rivets, and about five bits of pressed steel, total materials cost less than thirty pence. They cost £50-70, but I think you get a very nice cardboard box thrown in.

Merlin, if mass is the only real reason for the two different sizes, I may well go with the smaller one. I know the stories about people being pulled along by them, and I'm no Hercules! I think a good plan might be to visit my local Makita shop (Bell tools) and try to have a look at them first, although they don't carry much stock.

I've got a Makita orbital sander already, and it is very good. The mass helps a lot as it cuts down vibration, but hoover-driven DX is essential, as is punching the DX holes in the sandpaper, as you daren't let it clog at all. If it doesn't clog, it sands nicely. If it does, it will instantly ruin a finish by scoring the wood. I'm hoping that a belt sander, as well as working with the grain, will be OK for many things with just its dust bag (not clog as easily).

Still keen to hear opinions... :)
 
I'd go for the smaller one, Eric. I think your frame prices might be a bit on the low side !

Mind you, you should check out the price of the bath waste for the poncy (sorry, smart) bath SWMBO chose ...see other thread.. £75 :shock: And then you need to be Hercules to tilt the 68kg bath on its side with one hand, while holding the waste with the other and the spanner for the backnut in the third hand. Naturally they do supply one that does up from the top and has a clever gizmo that opens up the waste outlet if the water exceeds a certain depth ('cos the bath hasn't got an overflow) and that will set you back £275 ...jeepers.
 
Bath thing: been there a few times!

These days, I stick to three general rules:
#1 always arrange bath waste plumbing to have a bit of vertical movement (applies to showers too, really).
#2 have bricks or blocks handy to stand bath on while fixing the trap/waste,
#3 have strong boyfriend of a daughter handy to help lift it!

And, given I have daughters (who like long hair), always carefully clean/smooth the inside of pipes and fittings so that nothing gets snagged, anywhere before the actual sewer pipe in the ground. We've got one bath with an expensive pop-up waste (button in centre of overflow). That one gets a regular dose of neat bleach down the plughole (leave for an hour or so), as the water route is tortuous, to put it mildly. The shower drains are an ongoing nuisance.
 
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