what Epoxy Resin do people recommend?

[Random Orbital Bob]

Specifically for gluing tool steel into wooden handles. I've done about half hour searching on google and no one particular brand seems to leap out. There's araldite of course but its incredibly expensive and just seems a bit domestic somehow. Has anyone got any tips on a decent brand to get and from where please? I have very little experience using epoxy's. last time I had some it was to repair a lawn tractor part with fibre glass matting but I've never before used it on wood or to bond anything to wood.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Everbuild is much cheaper and equally as good I think, and for where it's important it's clear. Many builders merchants stock it.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Cheers Phil

 

[CHJ]

I always keep a pack of 30 min Z-Poxy in the adhesive arsenal, the extra set time is a bonus if using for pens etc. as it allows 10 mins or so work time to cover 3-4 pens. and when mixing with filler materials.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Chas I'll check that out too.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I don't suppose either cascamite or gripfill would work for tool handle gluing would they? Simply as I have both already that's all.

 

[RogerBoyle]

Z- Poxy gets my vote

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

That could necessitate a trip to Axy.....shame

 

[CHJ]

I don't suppose either cascamite or gripfill would work for tool handle gluing would they? Simply as I have both already that's all.

Cascamite would be OK, might want to mix with some fine dust just to add some body and temper the brittleness of the Cascamite on its own.
Just make sure you have a flat on or a through hole in the shank to resist round bar turning in socket.

 

[Racers]

Wilcos epoxy, I used it for filling Pippy oak knots cheap and works well, takes longer to go fully hard than Araldite.
I was colouring the epoxy with ground instant coffee and Araldite went off as i was mixing it.

Its good for tool handles as well.


Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't suppose either cascamite or gripfill would work for tool handle gluing would they? Simply as I have both already that's all.

I've used PVA perfectly successfully.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

For this type of application just use whatever you can get locally, Araldite Rapid is what I use. You'll find plenty of applications for the remainder so there won't be any waste.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/araldite-rapid-2-x-15ml/10977

Regards Mick

 

[whiskywill]

This works for me.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesiv ... 340/p29905

 

[carlb40]

When i made a couple of bushcraft knives. I used west's system to glue the scales to the tang.

 

[caroleb]

At the risk of sounding daft I would add that although I have some quantity of Araldite and Z-Poxy, I have honestly found that Poundlands own two-part epoxy resin, the one in the split syringe, which costs a pound ( :? ) is absolutely great. I have used it extensively for gluing tangs into handles in all sorts of woods.

If it ain't broke.

Caz

 

[Racers]

At the risk of sounding daft I would add that although I have some quantity of Araldite and Z-Poxy, I have honestly found that Poundlands own two-part epoxy resin, the one in the split syringe, which costs a pound ( :? ) is absolutely great. I have used it extensively for gluing tangs into handles in all sorts of woods.

If it ain't broke.

Caz

That's good to know, I have looked at in the past and thought mmmm.... does it work?

Pete

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

well, plenty of choices there folks...many thanks indeed. Bugger me if I haven't just driven past Screwfix, Toolstation and Poundland in Camberley

 

[Kalimna]

If going the ZPoxy route, there are a few sellers on the 'bay that are a few quid cheaper than Axi... I've found the 30min stronger/tougher than the 5min, though.

Cheers,
Adam

 

[chipmunk]

I'm nt sure if I'm teaching my grandmother here, but meths works well for cleaning up epoxy which oozes out of the joint.

Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

More egg sucking instruction maybe:

As the epoxy cures it goes through a 'plastic' stage during which it can be peeled off non porous surfaces, I use a scalpel to lift enough to get hold of. The scalpel will also cut through 'plastic' epoxy aiding removal of a bead from a porous surface.

Regards Mick