Wardrobe doors bowed

[Charlie Woody]

I made some Shaker style doors 22mm x 90mm x 1950 MR MDF with 6mm MR MDF panels. At the customer's yesterday I noticed they had bowed (i.e. top & bottom would not sit flush with carcase); so I took them off, made a flat level base on the floor, stacked the doors on this and then placed 3 sheets of 18mm x 500mm MDF on them.

I'm hoping that when I go back tomorrow that they will be ok!

If not what can I do to fix this please?

 

[jasonB]

Were they painted the same both sides?

Also try just leaving the doors open a few days as the heat in teh room may be different to that in teh cupboards until things settle down

 

[Charlie Woody]

Thanks Jason

They are unpainted as customer is going to do the paint job.

They were stacked against the wall from the previous day so not sure if that is what has caused the problem.

So as they are unpainted do you think that if I hang them they will sort themselves out over a few days? If so should I ask the customer to delay painting?

 

[joiner_sim]

If just simply weighing them down does not work, try putting a block or something similar under the corners pointing in and then clamping down the corners pointing out. If joints open up try putting a slither or wedge into the gaps with glue. Leave for 24 hours and may do the trick.

EDIT: Don't blame me if this doesn't work (but it should)....... :roll:

coughs..... *bodge*

 

[Charlie Woody]

....try putting a block or something similar under the corners pointing in and then clamping down the corners pointing out. ...

EDIT: Don't blame me if this doesn't work (but it should)....... :roll:

coughs..... *bodge*

Not sure I understand how you mean to do this .... could you please clarify?

 

[joiner_sim]

Take the door off, place on a bench, trestles or something similar.
Where the door is twisted, it will point down and up. (i.e. one surface will be touching the bench, the other not)
The parts that are pointing down, place something underneath. If the door is twisted by 5mm, then a block at 10mm or more... depending on the width of the door.
The part that is pointing up, clamp down to the surface of the bench or whatever your using.
Do this top and bottom.
If the joints open up, consider wedged some wood and glue in the gaps.
If the joints compress, consider getting your handsaw on the shoulders of the joint.

Hope that explains it for you a bit better. It is a bit of a bodge admittedly, but can be used as a last resort. I used to do this with window casements (that had thru mortice & tennon joints) that went wrong on some occassions.