walnut dovetailed box

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jimmyhenson

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I'm making this for my wife as a valentines day gift (loads of time) :?
It is my first time to cut dovetails, there is room for improvement but i'm happy with it for my first go. I was hoping to get some advice regarding the finish. I have linseed oil and clear briwax to hand, would either of these or a combination of the 2 work? I'll be using the large piece of walnut for the lid with a couple of brass butt hinges.

http://s43.photobucket.com/user/jamesmc ... sort=3&o=0

Any recommendations/advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Jimmy
 
Yes those dovetails look good, I myself am not able to advise you re finishing because I use sanding sealer and wax only myself.

The walnut board appears an unusual piece of timber to me, its different to any piece that as passed my hands.
 
a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil would work- dont use raw on this. wipe on, leave for 15 mins, and wipe off any excess.

But dont rush it- allow 24 hours between coats. Wax over that is entirely optional.
 
I think that is what is called crotch walnut - I have some for parts of my secretaire cabinet I am making currently. If you don't want it and would prefer some straight grained walnut I have lots and would be delighted to swap!
Seriously - it will be absolutely beautiful
I would use the bit top left on that board - the figuring will be quite extraordinary
Linseed oil would be OK - but personally I'd get something else - especially if you are in a hurry (i.e. as today is Valentine's Day!). Sanding sealer and wax you could have finished within 15 minutes of starting - linseed will take ages
Nice job and good luck
Mark
 
The crotch has a lot of shakes going through it and I won't be able to use it as much as I would like to. I'll try get some sanding sealer this morning.
Thanks
 
Boiled linseed oil would work, but it's not especially durable or resistant to water or moisture, and darkens the wood significantly. It does take a few applications to develop a film which can be a bit soft and sticky, especially if it's not wiped off thoroughly about 15- 20 minutes after it's been applied. I am aware that you planned not to use linseed oil, so the rest of this post is moot, but I thought I'd mention that linseed oil or pure tung oil applied to the interior of enclosed boxes, cabinets, etc, almost always causes an unpleasant smell to hit your nose whenever the box or cabinet is opened. So the general advice is don't use oil finishes on cabinet or box interiors that are kept closed almost all the time. Slainte.
 
Sgian Dubh":2d4i1dl5 said:
So the general advice is don't use oil finishes on cabinet or box interiors that are kept closed almost all the time. Slainte.

That little nugget is great. It might well prevent considerable grief. Thank you.
xy
 
I would get a tin of spray lacquer, Acrylic preferably but Cellulose will also do, denib between coats, 3 should be good then you could apply a thin coat of your wax to give it that final tactile finish.
Do not try and apply the lacquer too thickly, two passes each spray is good enough, that way you don't get any sagging, it will build up quite quickly.

Andy
 
If buying product is an option, I would go for tru-oil on walnut. It will darken it a bit but will bring out the grain nicely.
 
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