Hornbeam
Established Member
I couldnt update the title so have written this as a second article
Next stage was to make the internal trays. These are ash with birch ply bases
The sides are 7mm thick
The corners are mitered on the table saw and the a 4mm groove cut for the ply base
The trays are divided into 2 or 3 compartments
I normally do this with stopped housings, which are rough cut on the router table using a 1/4inch bit and then trimmed so the divider is a tight fit
An alternative to this approach is to ude a simple butt joint with 4mm through dowels. This is easier but is is critical to line up the dowels otherwise it looks a bit messy
I dont use clamps to glue up. I se parcel tape on the corners and then a very tight wrap of fibre reinforced tape.
Once dry the trays are planed up and then the veneer keys are fitted
I have made a sled for the router table to use with a groover for this
This is very new and there is effectively a zero clearance for the 1.5mm groover. The depth of the groove is adjusted with thin strip inserted obetween the box and the internal angle
The splines are 1.5mm thick walnut to contrast with the ash and go with the box. After gluing these are cut flush with a handsaw and then planed flush always working away from the corner to prevent breakout (this image is from another box
Sometimes when making trays I like to undercut the tray sides either by cutting a full depth rebate or gluing a cap on. This means that when the tray is lined with a suede or cloth, it only just sticks out ( I havent done this on these trays as it is a bit more work
Everything is now ready for finishing. I sanded everything to 320 grit and then used danish oil
Next stage was to make the internal trays. These are ash with birch ply bases
The sides are 7mm thick
The corners are mitered on the table saw and the a 4mm groove cut for the ply base
The trays are divided into 2 or 3 compartments
I normally do this with stopped housings, which are rough cut on the router table using a 1/4inch bit and then trimmed so the divider is a tight fit
An alternative to this approach is to ude a simple butt joint with 4mm through dowels. This is easier but is is critical to line up the dowels otherwise it looks a bit messy
I dont use clamps to glue up. I se parcel tape on the corners and then a very tight wrap of fibre reinforced tape.
Once dry the trays are planed up and then the veneer keys are fitted
I have made a sled for the router table to use with a groover for this
This is very new and there is effectively a zero clearance for the 1.5mm groover. The depth of the groove is adjusted with thin strip inserted obetween the box and the internal angle
The splines are 1.5mm thick walnut to contrast with the ash and go with the box. After gluing these are cut flush with a handsaw and then planed flush always working away from the corner to prevent breakout (this image is from another box
Sometimes when making trays I like to undercut the tray sides either by cutting a full depth rebate or gluing a cap on. This means that when the tray is lined with a suede or cloth, it only just sticks out ( I havent done this on these trays as it is a bit more work
Everything is now ready for finishing. I sanded everything to 320 grit and then used danish oil
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