Wainscoting?

[wizer]

Hello

This weekend marked the start of the new house renovation. We have three months to decorate each room (including the new workshop ).

For the nursery we think wood paneling would look nice and compliment the extortionate solid oak furniture we've bought ( :shock: ).

I think this is called Wainscoting? Is that right?

Oak would be nice but would this be very expensive? If so then painted pine would also be fine.

Could anyone shove me in the direction of a supplier/product and also some installation tips.

Thanks

 

[Scrit]

Hi Wizer

It all depends on whether or not you want to make your own or not. Fundamentally it's just T&G or lapped matchboard with a dado moulding at the top and skirting at the bottom. There was a thread quite recently about the subkect, here

Scrit

 

[woody67]

Hiya WiZer - don't know if it well help, but I've used kit forms from Homebase in the past - they are tongue & groove boards with a substantial cockbead (3 inch wide, 30 inch tall) and come complete with skirting and top-rail. I know they're just tarted up cladding but once painted or even stained, they don't resemble bog standard cladding in any shape or form!!

I done our bathroom in it - including the bath panel, and it came out a treat. Maybe went a bit OTT and chopped down the boards to 18 inch to do around the walls above the kitchen worktops instead of tiles, and again IMHO, once painted in Country Cream silk vinyl, it suits the oak kitchen well.

Good luck with your hunt.

Woody

 

[wizer]

thanks both. I will check out the Homebase kit.

I guess I could make my own? Could I do it al on the router table? Is it straight forward?

 

[Scrit]

I guess I could make my own? Could I do it al on the router table? Is it straight forward?

Yes. All you'd need would be a rebate cutter (or a straight cutter) for douing the laps and a small beading cutter

Scrit

 

[wizer]

Actually on reading that other thread, this is what i'd want:

If I have read that right, Jason just used pre-made T&G Boards.

Is it as easy as lining the wall with timber and nailing it to it, or is there something clever I have to do to compensate for wavey walls?

Edit: what happens at corners? The room has a diagonal wall as well as 2 45 degree corners

 

[woody67]

Many apologies WiZer - I meant Focus, not Homebase! Here's a few snaps of my use of the kit from Focus I mentioned earlier!

 

[wizer]

oh good, I have a Focus near where I live. Will have a look tonight, many thanks.

 

[engineer one]

wizer, others will also advise, maybe even better, but the thing to do is batten and then pack out the battens to get a straight surface along that wall. rather like setting up for plaster board etc.

at the ends you would use the profile scribing method to reduce the amount of mitring you need to do.

if it is going to be painted then cheap wood, or even routed mdf is fine, but maybe save some money for one room, "the library" to be in oak which is stained and polished :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

Is it as easy as lining the wall with timber and nailing it to it, or is there something clever I have to do to compensate for wavey walls?

Battens and packing pieces? The old stuff I've ripped out doesn't have that, though, it's just fixed to laths top and bottom

Edit: what happens at corners? The room has a diagonal wall as well as 2 45 degree corners

You may need to plane off the tongue and/or groove and apply a beading or capping over the joint

Scrit

 

[tombo]

Wizer,

norm did a show all about this, he setup a false wall in his workshop and did 3 different treatments they turned out realy well. He coverd all the tricky bits including inside and outside corners plus cornices, well worth a watch.
The catch is that episode/series has never aired in the UK.
However as a canny internaught i'm sure you could locate a copy for backup puroses only just in case they ever loose the master tapes

PM me if you need any pointers

Tom

 

[jasonB]

Just 4 horizontal battens 25x50 PAR plugged and screwed to the walls, shimmed as required.

Secret nailed with electric pinner, screw on a skirting and fix a rebated capping

Thats all there is to it.

The moulding came from Mid Sussex Timber

Jason

 

[wizer]

thanks all, i'm looking forward to doing it

 

[JFC]

You can also buy sheets of mdf with that molding on it , as its for a bedroom and going to be painted it would be cheaper .

 

[wizer]

Cheers Jason, I am as yet unable to find the MDF stuff, but the search continues

 

[engineer one]

try a wood yard/builders merchant rather than a shed.

paul :wink:

 

[jasonB]

Richard Russels do it and will deliver to you, bottom of page. Personally I find the bead is too big on the MDF boards.

The other option is 6mm MDF and a "V" bit in the router, you don't get the bead but its quite effective just gripfilled to the walls with a few screws for good measure then fill with epoxy filler.

Jason

 

[wizer]

right, i'm back on this.

I have looked around the sheds and the standard stuff seems quite poor quality to me. B&Q do redwood TGVB but its quite pricey. I haven't called richard russel yet. Morgan Timber in Rochester do redwood TGV for 1.69 per metre, which very roughly works out around 240 for the room (without skirt and dado/cap).

I like this idea about making it from MDF with a V cutter. How would I align the joints between boards? i.e on a 3m wall i'd need to use 2 8x4 boards but i'd be concerned the joints would be obvious.

Also 12mm MDF? or 18? MR?

I assume the V mouldings would just be a case of running it along a straight edge at measured intervals.

I'm thinking of using an Oak dado/cap, would this be overkill? Could I mould it myself Or should I buy it pre-made.

Finally, is MDF skirting a good option?

 

[jasonB]

I usually use 6mm MR MDF when i make my own, 9mm would be more than enough.

For the vertical joints I just plane a chamfer on the two meeting edges and but them up, all the ones in this kitchenhave joints as I tend to cut the MDF into three 32" panels.

I just mark off 100mm steps and use a guide tail to run the router along, about a 2mm depth of cut gives a 4mm wide "V" which looks about right.

Should be easy enough to make up your own oak capping and MDF skirting is fine as its unlikely to be cupped and there are no Knots to worry about.

Jason

 

[DomValente]

right, i'm back on this.

I have looked around the sheds and the standard stuff seems quite poor quality to me. B&Q do redwood TGVB but its quite pricey. I haven't called richard russel yet. Morgan Timber in Rochester do redwood TGV for 1.69 per metre, which very roughly works out around 240 for the room (without skirt and dado/cap).

I like this idea about making it from MDF with a V cutter. How would I align the joints between boards? i.e on a 3m wall i'd need to use 2 8x4 boards but i'd be concerned the joints would be obvious.

Also 12mm MDF? or 18? MR?

I assume the V mouldings would just be a case of running it along a straight edge at measured intervals.

I'm thinking of using an Oak dado/cap, would this be overkill? Could I mould it myself Or should I buy it pre-made.

Finally, is MDF skirting a good option?

I would align the joints by making one of the 'V' grooves at the joint.
12mm MR not only for the moisture resistance but it finishes better.
Yes a straight edge.
Oak dado would be nice and it will be considerably cheaper to D.I.Y.
Wouldn't use MDF skirting personally , too much water at floor level, especially if you have kids up to 18 years of age.
Don't forget to seal the 'V's' before painting as these are now bare edges.

Dom

Edit: Sorry Jason, was typimg as you posted