Veneering plywood

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Banjopicker

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Corsham, Wilts.
I'm a beginner (complete beginner!) making a couple of toy chests for my young sons. They're the ones in the Stanley Book of Woodwork, if anyone is familiar with that book, and I'm using some very nice ash. Raised panels at the front and sides, and a plywood panel for the back.

The ply backs are 6mm, ash veneered on one side only. I'm considered veneering the other side, if it's not too difficult and there isn't too much of a risk of the veneer peeling off or bubbling up in a few years - it would be very difficult indeed to repair.

Do I really need a vacuum press, etc.? Is there a big risk of failure if I just schlap it on and sandwich it between some hefty offcuts of oak kitchen workhop and some clamps to give it a big squeeze ? The panels are about 3 ft by 1ft, and the back side of the ply is reasonably smooth. The edges of the panel will sit inside the groove in the carcass, so the edges of the veneer won't be vulnerable.

True, the back won't normally be visible, unless the chest is used as a coffee table or something, but it just doesn't feel right to leave it, having invested so much time, money, and HEART and SOUL into this project ! In short, what's the risk ? It isn't something I envisage doing a lot of, and I'm a bit skint after buying the wood and tools, so I can't consider any solution that involves large amounts of cash.

Of course, if anyone knows where I can get 6mm double-sided ash veneer plywood, this would solve it, but all the thin ply I've located seems to be one-sided.

Thanks,

- Bernie
 
does the veneered side not go outside and the plain side in. or am i missing something forgive me if that`s the case.
all the best
rob
 
Nothing wrong with veneering both sides. Couldn't you have bought 2 sides veneered stock to begin with?

For what is a small panel, I'm guessing a toy box would be fairly small you should have no problem using weight as your clamp. I've used a few slabs before to do the job and its been ok for the odd job. Heres a few pictures of when I did it:


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Finished article.

DSC00941.jpg



I think I remember saying at the time that I used Titebond 3 for this. But as its quite a runny glue it would have been easy to ripple the veneer, a glue that was a bit more tacky would be pretty good just to stop it slipping around.
 
Remember that plywood is made up of an odd number of veneers. If you add a veneer to one side you will probably unbalance it and it will warp.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Banjopicker":2t4i40yt said:
Of course, if anyone knows where I can get 6mm double-sided ash veneer plywood, this would solve it, but all the thin ply I've located seems to be one-sided.

Thanks,

- Bernie

If your design would work with an 8mm panel, you could buy a sheet of 4mm veneered ash one side and double it up. (Anyone able to confirm if this would still stay flat with the grain running the same way on both faces?)

4mm ash veneered ply is available at eg Robbins in Bristol at £24.95 + VAT for a full sheet. It might be worth trying Avon Plywood in Keynsham. Both these merchants have a huge range and were helpful on small quantities when I have used them.
 
Faced ply is only done on one side hence it is cheaper than faced mdf which is done on both sides.

Buying faced ply then the glue and veneer to do the other side plus the time and equipment to veneer the other side, would be less cost effective than buying faced mdf, especially if it just for the one job.

Andy
 

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