veneered oak mdf help

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Lark

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what I am doing is cutting 2 sides and 2 tops joined by 45/ "front and back will be mdf painted so not a prob"
i have a Bosch gts10 table saw with 80 teeth blade
"straight cut"ripping cut not too bad... cross cut bad on the top side and not to bad on the bottom side... this is before I cross cut 45 degrees "test to see how blade would cut"
i don't think the saw blade is much good or are most blade like this...


i will get around to testing a 45 degree cut soon but thought would ask first.....

i do have a festool plunge saw and track.... cuts are good on it.... but with out a MFT its harder to get all cuts same like with a table saw... also when the wood is not so big.. tops 250mm x 230mm
 
80 teeth blade should cut fairly fine, is it quite worn?

How about clamping something on top of the board somehow to stop it breaking out

another option would be to score the line first
 
Its usually the other way around for me the bottom side gives me the the worse cut.
80 teeth should be plenty enough for a nice cross cut, (I use a 16 or 20 tooth blade for ripping)
So you might want to get a better blade with tungtsen carbide tips or have it sharpened.
A couple of things you could also do is to drop the blade so it is only about 1/2" higher then what your cutting, (but that usually only applies to a better edge on the underside)
you could also fix a lenth of off cut to what you are cutting and cut through both.
I work with vaneered sheets of Oak MDF alot and obviously have to do 45degree mitre to hide the mdf, and I usually cut it square then run the 45 angle on the planer, and a false tongue on my bench saw.

Hope that helps
 
thanks for the replies... it only Bosch blade and it may well need sharpening but i would guess it be just as cheap to buy new than to sharpen it maybe been about £30
i do have 60th blade but thats had lots more mdf cutting over years but may feel sharper..... only hobbyist don't know how long takes blade to be blunt....


yes i thought i read it should be the other way around.. that was only on the cross cut not the rip and i do only have it just above the wood when cutting

i have the dewalt planer thickness hardly been used and dont rate the fence much on it... also never run mdf on it before as guessed it for real wood
 
Not sure if it will halp in this case but how about cutting over long then sanding on a disk sander to the correct length?

I saw a tip where a line was scored with a scalpel at the exact length then when sanding on the disk a burr formed and when you were perfect it falls off.

It wasn't with MDF but might that work?
 
i dont have disk sander, dont really trust my skills for scoring it might do it in the wrong place lol.... wont be today i try as getting late for neighbours......
i dont think the saw blade is a slide mitre saw blade but if it is would that make a difference....
 
If it is a good quality blade it may be worth getting it re-sharpened, should only cost around 8 quid
 
Lark":o1g8dvz9 said:
i dont think the saw blade is a slide mitre saw blade but if it is would that make a difference....
Click to expand...

only if it has a negative hook, otherwise I think they are much the same
 
i dont know if it is... but with the shipping maybe another £10 there and back guess. £18 it may only cost me £25 from Axmister few years ago dunno if Bosch 80thooth blade is good or not



no sure how to tell maybe i can look in the order history to see the details of the saw blade

(Bosch Multi-Material Saw Blades
Product Code: 610877) all it gives me as link dont work any more £24
 
Neg rake blades are not meant for table saw use, they tend to get used more on radial arm saws, where the neg rake makes the saw push itself away from you when cutting
 

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Negative rake blades can be used in a table saw and can give less tearout but they are a bit dangerous to use as the risk of kickback is greater.

As has been said tearout of the top is unusual, does the surface tear as the work is fed into the front of the blade or is it being torn upwards by the back of the blade, this would be caused by a porely aligned blade/mitre slot when cross cutting as the work will be getting caught by the teeth comming up out the table.

Jason
 
looks like it is a neg blade my other saw blade is 40tooth came with the saw
off memory it may have tear upwards bits missing out of the veneer and sticking up i think, not 100% sure "blade maybe 3.2 from my 3.0" this is off the neg blade that i have now took out of the table saw
i used the table saw fence and pushed it through
the mitre gauge is rubbish on the Bosch and stupid size to use off market one
 
ill have to test cut with the 40t and see how good that comes out then :(

then later look about getting the right blade... shame festool MFT are cheaper lol
 
the 40t blade is a bit chip out with worse on the bottom side now........ not much improvement with tape over it
 

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