I'd go along with almost all that.
Where I would disagree is his blade tensioning and fence alignment.
Changing the tension of the blade can change the tracking of the blade, so I don't see the point of tracking it at one tension and then changing the tension. I have no idea why he was starting the machine in short bursts, or what he could tell from that, can you? I use the "twang" test, but it's virtually impossible to explain that in words, you just have to get to know your own saw.
And whilst there was nothing wrong in the way he adjusted the angle of his fence, he certainly doesn't HAVE to move the rail itself - I'd bet a pound to a penny that those four bolts on the top of the front end of the fence are for that precise purpose.
Two things I thought were very good. It was a very clear demo of how to set the blade guides properly, and I agree with his about the "challenge" of ensuring the wheels are co-planar. It's one thing to say "The blades must be co-planar, check with a long straight-edge" and quite another to be able actually to do it. Plus, on most machines, the only time the top wheel is NOT angled to deal with tracking is when the blade is off, and then it is so loose as to be impossible to measure it!. As soon as you use it to track it will be non-co-planar anyway. I've never understood how you do that properly, I'm glad it's not just me.
I think one thing that is missing (on AH's and TWW's) is what to do when things aren't right and how to recognize what is wrong. Sure, you can always start from square one every time, but that is a long-winded (if sure-fire) method. I'd like to see examples of what happens when the tension isn't right, when the fence is square, when the tracking is off, when the guides are not set correctly etc, etc.
Still, generally a very useful resource, and very well filmed, too. I'd like to see his staging setup.
Cheers
Steve