Using a Stanley Honing guide

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Colarris

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I was given a Stanley Honing guide but no instructions. On the back it shows the length of blade that should be extruding from it but I cant figure out whether the length is measured from the top piece of the guide or the section on the underneath.(??)
 
It's the amount (of the flat face) sticking out beyond the guide. New they have a little scale attached but these are usually lost early on.
They aren't much use though, I wouldn't bother with it myself.
 
Jacob":1m9jzbwa said:
It's the amount (of the flat face) sticking out beyond the guide. New they have a little scale attached but these are usually lost early on.
They aren't much use though, I wouldn't bother with it myself.

Agreed - those guides are complete rubbish; much better guides are available.

BugBear
 
Mine works okay and still has the plastic 35/30/25 scale. I've a small pile of other types that have appeared from somewhere over the years and they're all much of a muchness really.

For those of us who've never learnt the knack of doing it by hand/eye what's the best sharpening guide?
 
RogerP":34fq4kpm said:
For those of us who've never learnt the knack of doing it by hand/eye what's the best sharpening guide?

Best value for money (IMHO) is the Eclipse (or similar) "side clamping" style. These are quick to use, cheap to buy, and give perfectly repeatable bevels (for sharpening efficiency, and maximum tool life) when used with a made-from-scrap projection gauge. They only work well for chisels wider than 1/4" and bench plane blades, but since these "just happen" to constitute the major part of most people's actual tool use - job done.

Avoid the very cheap knock-offs of this design, since even the expensive ones are still very affordable. If you're at a car boot, you should be able to get an actual Eclipse one for 50p to a coupla' quid.

BugBear (expecting this thread to end badly)
 
Here's some from car-boots. KKR (?) Stanley, Record, Eclipse.

sharpening.jpg
 
clamp blade in guide, only loosly - hold clamped assembly with bevel of blade touching stone/plate or whatever - hold all up to light to check bevel to stone mating...adjust as ness - hone > job done...bosshogg
 
bosshogg":18ddx97c said:
clamp blade in guide, only loosly - hold clamped assembly with bevel of blade touching stone/plate or whatever - hold all up to light to check bevel to stone mating...adjust as ness - hone > job done...bosshogg

I'd rather "Just" fit a 2" projection in a projection gauge than attempt to eyeball the angular match of (in my case) a 1mm secondary bevel!

Still, each to his own.

My method is quick and simple. (*)

BugBear

(*) apparently it's compulsory to say this when talking about sharpneing.
 
bugbear":1yk2aska said:
Jacob":1yk2aska said:
It's the amount (of the flat face) sticking out beyond the guide. New they have a little scale attached but these are usually lost early on.
They aren't much use though, I wouldn't bother with it myself.

Agreed - those guides are complete rubbish; much better guides are available.
But it does have the advantage of holding the blade pretty low down, which can be advantageous on shorter irons. I still hang onto mine, just in case.
 
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