Union hand crank chuck issues

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bennymk

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Hey guys, I have a old union hand crank pillar drill, it's a beast of a machine and the mechanism works well, but I'm having problems figuring out my chuck issues.

When I brought it the drill bits would not sit right on further inspection I noticed I was missing a spring now here's for the fun bit. I brought a spring put it in but the said spring wasn't manly enough so I ignored it for a year. An now I can't remember how I got the spring in? I can't see were/if at all the chuck comes apart and to top it of I know nothing about springs or chuck for that matter.

My questions that I cannot fathom are;

Does the chuck come apart?
Does anyone now what the springs may be ?
Can I buy a different chuck for It?

I really wont to get this drill going as I like working without all the noise from electric machines.

What are my options guys?

Kind regards
 

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The holes for the springs to go in seem to be 4.5mm but I've got two different lengths so I'm surmising that their not original. Any idea what the original length may be? Gauge seems to be about .8mm

Cheers
 

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bennymk":15dansuj said:
My questions that I cannot fathom are;

Does the chuck come apart?
Yes, the rear plain collar should unscrew.
Does anyone now what the springs may be ?
Should be possible to bend some up out of suitable piano wire.
Can I buy a different chuck for It?
Will be dependant on the drill spindle thread specification, may have to rely on finding a old 'spare' from a donor machine.
Can you determine the thread (diameter and pitch?)

There is always the possibility of someone with metal machining capability of modifying the drill shaft/thread to suit a more modern chuck, but that requires dismantling of machine and making it non-standard as far as aesthetics are concerned.
 
Glad you managed to get the chuck apart, hopefully without mangling the knurling :) Once it's apart it's worth cleaning and brightening up the inside bearing surface of the cone as well as the jaws, apply a smear of fresh oil when you reassemble and you'll be amazed at how smoothly it runs.

For new springs the rule of thumb is you go by the originals and try to match. It's not super-critical if they're not all the same, the jaws just move more evenly if they are. If replacing all three so they are matching the new springs don't have to be identical to the ones first fitted (in length, gauge or diameter) close enough is fine as long as they fit in the holes obvs. Previous thread here with a bit on making your own screws, a relatively easy process if suitable wire can be procured.

I've found the chucks on the drills that have passed through my hands to often be interchangeable – even between brands and across a very wide range of build dates and multiple countries of origin – so it is entirely possible you could swap out the chuck if need be.
 
Thanks for your help Eds are try procure some springs that are up for the job. If not are try make some.. you've put my mind at rest.

Cheers
 
If yours is anything like the ones I've had, the chuck is screwed onto a 1/2 inch diameter rod, which is then held in a collar by a pinch bolt.
The collar is fixed to the quill.(the up/down, rotating part)
To change the chuck, find one attached to a 1/2 dia rod.
Google Parallel Shank Drill Chuck Arbor 1/2" - JT2 Porta allows you to choose the chuck size and type.
Larger drills shafts can be reduced to 1/2 dia. and used directly in place of the chuck.

Bod
 
Hi, I recognise that chuck and plywood!

I'm not sure which thread you found it in, but in case it's any help, here's a closer picture which may not have featured in the original posting:



Also, in case it's any use, I see I previously posted a link to a spring seller on eBay who looks useful, though I've not needed to use him yet. He sells springs in many sizes, cut to the length you need:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/firstcompression
 
Cheers Andy first pic I found was a great help. I did come across that seller but I brought some rc clutch throttle spings in the end to give a try, Bit cheaper.

Thanks
 

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