woodshavings
Established Member
DomValente":3o8sj3kh said:
Me too????? 8-[
John
UKWorkshop getting on the YouTube bandwagon?
- Thread starter gidon
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Me too????? 8-[
John
ByronBlack
Established Member
ooh charley, you've dropped a rather subtle bombshell there!! RSS and video I like very much!!
Charley
Established Member
DomValente":1wsfzpo9 said:
A 'new version' of the main UKW site is currently in development. At the current rate it should be ready to go live in Jan 2009 :roll: :-$
Alf
Established Member
Ooo, optimist!Charley":26zxbl81 said:
BTW, all pics moved - ta muchly.
Cheers, Alf
Paul.J
Established Member
Steve.Great clips their on the pushsticks.
One concern though is the stick for the bandsaw.
As you say the force from the blade is driving the work down,but you are pushing towards the blade.If the work slips,which is easily done on the bandsaw, your hand is going to go straight into the blade.
Please correct me if i am seeing this method wrong.
Paul.J.
One concern though is the stick for the bandsaw.
As you say the force from the blade is driving the work down,but you are pushing towards the blade.If the work slips,which is easily done on the bandsaw, your hand is going to go straight into the blade.
Please correct me if i am seeing this method wrong.
Paul.J.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Paul, thank you for your contribution, but I see it differently.
For a start, the blade is guarded. The guard is down to just a few mm of the blade, or a bit higher if the workpiece is narrower than the guard unit itself (so I can get the push-stick in). The design of the pushstick is deliberate - the handle is vertical and at the top of the pushstick. This means that, in the event you describe, my hand will, at worst, bash into the guard, not into the blade. Now if you use the machine with the guard up, then you will be at risk as you describe.
I have nicked my thumb on the bandsaw just once, and it was enough of a hint. Needless to say, the guard was too high and I wasn't using a push-stick.
Used as described I believe the risk of blade injury is about Planck's Constant
Cheers
Steve
For a start, the blade is guarded. The guard is down to just a few mm of the blade, or a bit higher if the workpiece is narrower than the guard unit itself (so I can get the push-stick in). The design of the pushstick is deliberate - the handle is vertical and at the top of the pushstick. This means that, in the event you describe, my hand will, at worst, bash into the guard, not into the blade. Now if you use the machine with the guard up, then you will be at risk as you describe.
I have nicked my thumb on the bandsaw just once, and it was enough of a hint. Needless to say, the guard was too high and I wasn't using a push-stick.
Used as described I believe the risk of blade injury is about Planck's Constant
Cheers
Steve
I'm not really going to argue this one too much, but....... The standard approach taught in colleges since the 1960s is to use one or two push sticks and keep your hands some 350 to 400mm away from the blade at all times if possible. In reality I tend to man-handle materials right up until the last foot or so then just pick-up a push stick and push through. .
If you use an "overhand" pusher such as yours that will lead to your hand at the end of the rip being beside the saw blade between the fence and the blade and will put you in a position of potentially having an arm over the top of the crown guard or moving across the front of the blade. If you were to execute that manouvre on a saw with an overhead crown guard such as a my panel saw or Seaco's overhead crown guard you'd risk getting entangled in the guard support. Try it on a larger diameter saw, such as this Wadkin BSW rip saw:
and even with the nosing guard pulled down you'll be running the risk of injury. Same goes for the bandsaw. The forward position pusher such as yours might at a tight pinch be regarded as all right on a 10in saw with a crown guard mounted atop the riving knife, but with a suspended SUVA-type guard the guard suspension mechanism gets in the way and on bigger circular saws or band saws the blade itself becomes an very dangerous obstacle. The rule is simple - don't bend body over a blade. Even on a 12in saw you could have as much as 4in (vertical) of blade exposed at the end of cut, after the material has gone through - more than enough to get a skin/blade contact. the bigger the machine, the greater the danger. But I'd also suggest that you don't want your hand alongside the blade just in case that cracked bit at the end of the piece breaks off, richochets off the crown guard and raps you smartly over the knuckles. But then I'm a natural coward.
And who's to say what an amateur woodworker may have in their workshop? Before anyone says it I have known self-builders with 16in Dominion Elliott combination saws and even one brave soul with a 24in Wilson rip saw on a single phase motor. So that makes me a traditionalist and naysayer, I'm afraid, on the subject of American push-stick design :roll:
Scrit
If you use an "overhand" pusher such as yours that will lead to your hand at the end of the rip being beside the saw blade between the fence and the blade and will put you in a position of potentially having an arm over the top of the crown guard or moving across the front of the blade. If you were to execute that manouvre on a saw with an overhead crown guard such as a my panel saw or Seaco's overhead crown guard you'd risk getting entangled in the guard support. Try it on a larger diameter saw, such as this Wadkin BSW rip saw:
and even with the nosing guard pulled down you'll be running the risk of injury. Same goes for the bandsaw. The forward position pusher such as yours might at a tight pinch be regarded as all right on a 10in saw with a crown guard mounted atop the riving knife, but with a suspended SUVA-type guard the guard suspension mechanism gets in the way and on bigger circular saws or band saws the blade itself becomes an very dangerous obstacle. The rule is simple - don't bend body over a blade. Even on a 12in saw you could have as much as 4in (vertical) of blade exposed at the end of cut, after the material has gone through - more than enough to get a skin/blade contact. the bigger the machine, the greater the danger. But I'd also suggest that you don't want your hand alongside the blade just in case that cracked bit at the end of the piece breaks off, richochets off the crown guard and raps you smartly over the knuckles. But then I'm a natural coward.
And who's to say what an amateur woodworker may have in their workshop? Before anyone says it I have known self-builders with 16in Dominion Elliott combination saws and even one brave soul with a 24in Wilson rip saw on a single phase motor. So that makes me a traditionalist and naysayer, I'm afraid, on the subject of American push-stick design :roll:
Scrit
Alf
Established Member
Steve, can I say "told you so" now...? :wink: :lol:
Cheers, Alf
Cheers, Alf
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I will go so far as to admit that a pushstick like that is not the appropriate one to use with a saw like that. If I ever get one, I'll change my pushstick at the same time.
S
S
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Hi folks
Here's a short vid about the short rip fence I made and have recently improved.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w
And here is a jig for cutting very narrow strips on the tablesaw.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lp4ZR5WsL9w
The free downloads I refer to aren't there just at this moment, but I hope they will be by the end of the day.
Enjoy
S
Here's a short vid about the short rip fence I made and have recently improved.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w
And here is a jig for cutting very narrow strips on the tablesaw.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lp4ZR5WsL9w
The free downloads I refer to aren't there just at this moment, but I hope they will be by the end of the day.
Enjoy
S
gidon
Established Member
Fantastic stuff Steve! Love the narrow rip setting jig - definately something I need to make!
Thanks
Gidon
Thanks
Gidon
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Excellent stuff, Steve - thanks for posting.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Cheers :wink:
Paul
gidon
Established Member
Resurrecting an old thread - I have a new video up on:
Freehand grinding and honing
(Note Youtube are finally adding some improvements and this vid is available in standard and high quality.)
Please feel free to contribute vids to this thread - if you need any help in how to go about it, please ask - it's not difficult.
Cheers
Gidon
Freehand grinding and honing
(Note Youtube are finally adding some improvements and this vid is available in standard and high quality
.)Please feel free to contribute vids to this thread - if you need any help in how to go about it, please ask - it's not difficult.
Cheers
Gidon
A
Anonymous
Guest
Good stuff Gidon, well done.
gidon
Established Member
Thanks Steve!
Cheers
Gidon
Cheers
Gidon
A
Anonymous
Guest
Nice job Gidon. I wish I could explain things in such a calm and relaxed manner.
One question....how do keep the chisel at 90 degress to the grinder (or does this not matter with chisels?). I notice you've got the groove in your platform for a 'slider'. Is this something you use?
You've obviously used your fair share of honing creams/compounds. Why the autosol rather than the others? What put you off using the others?
Cheers,
Dave
One question....how do keep the chisel at 90 degress to the grinder (or does this not matter with chisels?). I notice you've got the groove in your platform for a 'slider'. Is this something you use?
You've obviously used your fair share of honing creams/compounds. Why the autosol rather than the others? What put you off using the others?
Cheers,
Dave
gidon
Established Member
Hi Dave
Thanks for your comments!
The easiest way is not to grind all the way to the edge of the tool - and use the honed metal as your guide for a square edge - so keep checking and adjust where you apply pressure accordingly. It's easier than it sounds if you give a go - just use a light touch.
If you don't have a square edge to start with - the easiest way is use a small engineers square and mark the back of the bevel as close to the front as you like with a marker. Then grind the blade blunt (the metal at 90 degrees to the wheel) until you get to this line. Then you can set your tool rest and grind to the edge - checking the thickness of the blunt edge, making sure it's even across it width - you'll see what I mean if you give it a go. As you get closer to removing the blunt edge stop frequently because it's very easy to burn the steel. (Note this is also the method you'd use to change to a steeper bevel).
I do have a guide that can run in that groove (off an Axminster honing jig) - it's also a handy place to hold your fingers freehand on wider plane blades for example.
I don't often use Autosol but because I was putting this video on Youtube I'd thought I'd use something non-specialist. I find it a little coarse. My favorite is probably that green Veritas stuff. Mainly because it's easy to rub (softer than other honing soaps I've tried) on MDF or leather and doesn't leave a load of nasty gunk on my fingers. It's also way finer than Autosol I'd say.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers
Gidon
Thanks for your comments!
The easiest way is not to grind all the way to the edge of the tool - and use the honed metal as your guide for a square edge - so keep checking and adjust where you apply pressure accordingly. It's easier than it sounds if you give a go - just use a light touch.
If you don't have a square edge to start with - the easiest way is use a small engineers square and mark the back of the bevel as close to the front as you like with a marker. Then grind the blade blunt (the metal at 90 degrees to the wheel) until you get to this line. Then you can set your tool rest and grind to the edge - checking the thickness of the blunt edge, making sure it's even across it width - you'll see what I mean if you give it a go. As you get closer to removing the blunt edge stop frequently because it's very easy to burn the steel. (Note this is also the method you'd use to change to a steeper bevel).
I do have a guide that can run in that groove (off an Axminster honing jig) - it's also a handy place to hold your fingers freehand on wider plane blades for example.
I don't often use Autosol but because I was putting this video on Youtube I'd thought I'd use something non-specialist. I find it a little coarse. My favorite is probably that green Veritas stuff. Mainly because it's easy to rub (softer than other honing soaps I've tried) on MDF or leather and doesn't leave a load of nasty gunk on my fingers. It's also way finer than Autosol I'd say.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers
Gidon
wizer
Established Member
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Thanks for this gidon. Not wanting another machine in the workshop, I have been re-grinding bevels on an eze-lap course stone using a Veritas Mk2. It cuts at an alarming rate, much quicker than W&D. Must try some of that green soap.
gidon
Established Member
Wizer I used and still occasionally use an extra coarse DMT stone for grinding back the bevel - you're right it's quick enough a lot of the time. If you don't let the secondary bevel get too big and you don't use the chisels for opening paint pots () it's very manageable on a coarse bench stone.
Unfortunately if you wany to try the technique in the video it's much easier with a hollow grind. FWIW my bench grinder sits in the gardening shed! Which suits me because it's a messy old thing.
Cheers
Gidon
) it's very manageable on a coarse bench stone. Unfortunately if you wany to try the technique in the video it's much easier with a hollow grind
. FWIW my bench grinder sits in the gardening shed! Which suits me because it's a messy old thing.Cheers
Gidon
joiner_sim
Established Member
gidon = i watched all your 3 videos on you tube and thought they were pretty good I tend to usually get good result on my eze-lap diamond stone, 600 & 250 grit. I sharpen all my chisels and hand planes on this. However my tools never seem to stay sharp for long. I do woodwork as a job, so maybe it is continuous use, and me thinking that they'd only been sharpened five minutes ago when in reality it was a few days ago!? :? Anyway, I saw your freehand grinding and honing video, I always hone freehand, but grinding is something I don't like doing! I thought your idea of a wooden block with the angle was excellent! I am always using wooden blocks to plane bevels on with the surfacer, but never thought about this with the grinder! I might have a go now at grinding one of the older chisels to see if this makes any difference in my grinding technique, and if it goes wrong, oh well it was only an older chisel! Hopefully I have learn't something about grinding tonight and it will help me progress.
I tend to usually get good result on my eze-lap diamond stone, 600 & 250 grit. I sharpen all my chisels and hand planes on this. However my tools never seem to stay sharp for long. I do woodwork as a job, so maybe it is continuous use, and me thinking that they'd only been sharpened five minutes ago when in reality it was a few days ago!? :? Anyway, I saw your freehand grinding and honing video, I always hone freehand, but grinding is something I don't like doing! I thought your idea of a wooden block with the angle was excellent! I am always using wooden blocks to plane bevels on with the surfacer, but never thought about this with the grinder! I might have a go now at grinding one of the older chisels to see if this makes any difference in my grinding technique, and if it goes wrong, oh well it was only an older chisel! Hopefully I have learn't something about grinding tonight and it will help me progress.Similar threads
