Type Of Circular Saw Blade For Nice Clean Cut On Redwood?

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pollys13

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Looking for a quality blade at reasonable cost.Which tooth configuration would be suitable to get a nice clean cut on 100mm x 100mm Redwood? My 1200W saw takes a 160mm blade has a depth of cut of 50mm and has a no load speed of 4,500/Minute
Thanks.
 
I want to be sure to avoid tearout occurring when I cut down the legs and stretchers to their final length, see attached photos. The Instructables bench plans I'm using, he adapted his design from a couple of others. The frame, base construction is the same as used in a Fine Woodworking video, as is some of another of their videos on making the top.

How would I finish the solid beech top? I asked someone about waxing it, they said no, as could mark the timber on the bench? Looking for Freud circular saw blades I see one on Ebay thats matches my saw. At a reasonable price £19.99 buy now inc delivery.
Freud Pro LP40M007 TCT Cross Cutting Saw Blade 160mm x 20 x 40 Tooth LP40M 007.

Would I not get an even better cut using a finer tooth configuration? I know what you gain you can lose in other ways. Or is the Freud such a good quality blade 40T will be fine?
Cheers.
 

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You will get some break out with any blade unless a sacrificial piece is used. I wouldn't worry to much a couple of swipes with some sand paper and all will be ok!
 
adidat":3uth4eq3 said:
You will get some break out with any blade unless a sacrificial piece is used. I wouldn't worry to much a couple of swipes with some sand paper and all will be ok!
Hi,
I now about sacrificial pieces, I'll probably use sand paper like you recommend.
I'm curious though, how would I utilize a sacrificial piece, using a circular saw cutting the legs to their length?Bit different to using the tablesaw.
Cheers.
 
The general rule is that more teeth = a cleaner cut, but more teeth also = less clear out of the sawdust, which can lead to the blade heating up and burning.

It tends to depend on the cut you're making. A long deep rip will need around 24 teeth. A clean cross cut would need around 60-80 teeth. A 40 tooth blade is a good balance of the two.
 
Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs... Just speak from personal experience and if I'm not it might save you cutting 2" off the end of your bench as I had to when I got a big kickback and scored a 1/4" gouge in my top. Don't forget to grade your cuts. Start off at a minimum depth and increase the depth of the blade each time. Will aid with kickback and prevent scorching. I learnt the hard way. ;) And check your saw and blade is square with a decent square not the machines angle setting unless you have a really good saw. Apologies again but it might save you some grief if you're starting out like me.
For a sacrificial bit just clamp it to where the saw leaves the wood, it will suffer breakout not your work which is clamped in by the sacrificial wood.
Cheers
Chris

Edit for finish you might want to look at Danish oil? Easy and pretty cheap and non slippery.
 
MattRoberts":23lmkjgu said:
The general rule is that more teeth = a cleaner cut, but more teeth also = less clear out of the sawdust, which can lead to the blade heating up and burning.

It tends to depend on the cut you're making. A long deep rip will need around 24 teeth. A clean cross cut would need around 60-80 teeth. A 40 tooth blade is a good balance of the two.
Ah, OK thanks for that.
 
Going a bit off topic here mate, but I cannot re-emphasise enough what Bm101 just said. You must be absolutely certain that your saw is going to cut square at full depth, each and every time otherwise, when you try to make your bench legs you'll end up smashing (or wanting to) it to bits with a hammer. Even a tiny fraction out will result in wobble that will be a real pain to correct, if not impossible with only a circular saw. Due to blade deflection you'll likely not be able to simply trim off fractional waste.

What are you going to use as a fence to make the cut? You can't do it in one pass with a 50mm depth of cut, so how will you ensure the position is identical (to a half millimeter really) for the subsequent cuts?

The blade itself is less important than these considerations when it comes to table leg ends, I'd argue.

The correct tool for the job is a table saw really, or a bandsaw with say a 3 or 4 tpi 3/4" blade, but both need to be set up perfectly. You might be better off asking if someone local would make these cuts for you? That would be my suggestion and we're a friendly bunch on here. Just until you get your new bandsaw sweet.
 
Logger":2s5no29s said:
If you require any cuts made, I am not that far away literally 1 mile from junction 18. (About 30 mins to Swindon)

I am in my workshop 6 days a week.

Cheers

Nick
Thats very generous of you thanks Nick, I'm actually in Wotton Bassett.
 
YorkshireMartin":9l24t4gv said:
Going a bit off topic here mate, but I cannot re-emphasise enough what Bm101 just said. You must be absolutely certain that your saw is going to cut square at full depth, each and every time otherwise, when you try to make your bench legs you'll end up smashing (or wanting to) it to bits with a hammer. Even a tiny fraction out will result in wobble that will be a real pain to correct, if not impossible with only a circular saw. Due to blade deflection you'll likely not be able to simply trim off fractional waste.

What are you going to use as a fence to make the cut? You can't do it in one pass with a 50mm depth of cut, so how will you ensure the position is identical (to a half millimeter really) for the subsequent cuts?

The blade itself is less important than these considerations when it comes to table leg ends, I'd argue.

The correct tool for the job is a table saw really, or a bandsaw with say a 3 or 4 tpi 3/4" blade, but both need to be set up perfectly. You might be better off asking if someone local would make these cuts for you? That would be my suggestion and we're a friendly bunch on here. Just until you get your new bandsaw sweet.
I have an Axminster AW12BSB2 tablesdsaw ( 4HP 100mm depth of cut ), with the cast iron extensions, that I've not put on yet.I also have a UKJ Technology mitre gauge and fence for it, the fence is 458mm long. ( another..... nice bit of kit Martin :) I'm also making a cross cutting sled, almost all the designs I found were American and didn't use a protected blade with the guard. Eventually I found a cross cutting sled design that allowed one to use the blade guard in place when using.Out of interest to anyone this is a link to the design,http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/4-handy-tablesaw-jigs
 
Logger":tnxydjf6 said:
If you require any cuts made, I am not that far away literally 1 mile from junction 18. (About 30 mins to Swindon)

I am in my workshop 6 days a week.

Cheers

Nick
I've never really drank I'm actually teetotal Nick but if you drink, fine. If I take up your offer I'll bring a 6 pack with me.
Cheers..... no pun intended.
Peter.
 
YorkshireMartin":lz3hbj7z said:
Going a bit off topic here mate, but I cannot re-emphasise enough what Bm101 just said. You must be absolutely certain that your saw is going to cut square at full depth, each and every time otherwise, when you try to make your bench legs you'll end up smashing (or wanting to) it to bits with a hammer. Even a tiny fraction out will result in wobble that will be a real pain to correct, if not impossible with only a circular saw. Due to blade deflection you'll likely not be able to simply trim off fractional waste.

What are you going to use as a fence to make the cut? You can't do it in one pass with a 50mm depth of cut, so how will you ensure the position is identical (to a half millimeter really) for the subsequent cuts?

The blade itself is less important than these considerations when it comes to table leg ends, I'd argue.

The correct tool for the job is a table saw really, or a bandsaw with say a 3 or 4 tpi 3/4" blade, but both need to be set up perfectly. You might be better off asking if someone local would make these cuts for you? That would be my suggestion and we're a friendly bunch on here. Just until you get your new bandsaw sweet.
" What are you going to use as a fence to make the cut? You can't do it in one pass with a 50mm depth of cut, so how will you ensure the position is identical (to a half millimeter really) for the subsequent cuts? " In the attached picture he uses a new bit of ply with an edge guide screwed to it, and he rotates the stock to cut to the depth. Was thinking could use one of the MDF offcuts from Wickes cutting service yesterday for the fence. The 100mm x 100mm Redwood when Robbins Timber have PAR will be 95mm x 95mm
 

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pollys13":2dn8ika0 said:
YorkshireMartin":2dn8ika0 said:
Going a bit off topic here mate, but I cannot re-emphasise enough what Bm101 just said. You must be absolutely certain that your saw is going to cut square at full depth, each and every time otherwise, when you try to make your bench legs you'll end up smashing (or wanting to) it to bits with a hammer. Even a tiny fraction out will result in wobble that will be a real pain to correct, if not impossible with only a circular saw. Due to blade deflection you'll likely not be able to simply trim off fractional waste.

What are you going to use as a fence to make the cut? You can't do it in one pass with a 50mm depth of cut, so how will you ensure the position is identical (to a half millimeter really) for the subsequent cuts?

The blade itself is less important than these considerations when it comes to table leg ends, I'd argue.

The correct tool for the job is a table saw really, or a bandsaw with say a 3 or 4 tpi 3/4" blade, but both need to be set up perfectly. You might be better off asking if someone local would make these cuts for you? That would be my suggestion and we're a friendly bunch on here. Just until you get your new bandsaw sweet.
" What are you going to use as a fence to make the cut? You can't do it in one pass with a 50mm depth of cut, so how will you ensure the position is identical (to a half millimeter really) for the subsequent cuts? " In the attached picture he uses a new bit of ply with an edge guide screwed to it, and he rotates the stock to cut to the depth. Was thinking could use one of the MDF offcuts from Wickes cutting service yesterday for the fence. The 100mm x 100mm Redwood when Robbins Timber have PAR will be 95mm x 95mm

It's definitely possible to do it using that method but it's the rotating of the stock that I think will create a challenge. I think so anyway, but I am definitely not an expert in any way shape or form.

At the end of the day it's a bench and not fine furniture, it's just that a wobble is so utterly annoying :lol:
 
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