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Waka

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I have a selection of Robert Sorby, Record and a few old Crown ones.
I guess my questions is, considering there is an array of toolmakers available, what does the team think and how would you rate different makers?
 
To be honest any of the ones you mentioned are good.|My only personal hesitation is that all the record one that I have had I changed the handles as they were all far too short for me. Whether that was just mine or the norm I couldn't say. Top of the list for me are Ashley isles but it's just personal preference. half my tools have been sourced at boot sales and the 2nd hand stalls at timber shows and most of my skews are older carbon steel ones.

pete
 
I don't have a favourite manufacturer, but I like the feel of my Robert Sorby handles.
My go to tools are my Record power 1 1/4" roughing gouge for large work Robert Sorby 3/4" roughing gouge for smaller for bowl work a mixture of Robert Sorby, Henry Taylor and Ashley Iles. I even have some smaller tools which are from a boot fair made by footprint and wolf I find these are great for some of the smaller work.
 
Not a great deal of difference between them as far as usability I would say, as Pete mentions Handle size and form to fit your hand is the most obvious difference, suggest the same as Pete, if you don't find the balance of one suits you try changing the handle to a size/length/shape you find more comfortable.

You may find that if you get into more intensive use of the tools that one brand, or tools in the same brand purchased at different times behave slightly differently, despite the fact all manufactures quote HSS some hold their edge better than others so there would appear to be a subtle difference in hardness, maybe just between batches or source of stock.

I know for a fact that a replacement bowl gouge steel I purchased from a big brand retailer (and is perfectly usable) does not hold its edge as well as my trusty Hamlet version that is getting to the end of its working length life and was always my go to tool.

Some time ago when I had a Tormek for review I was surprised to note that when sharpening the various brands (all HSS) there was a quantifiable difference in hardness that showed up on the slower steel removal on some brands but was not a sufficient difference to be noticeable on a standard white oxide wheel.
 
Another thing Waka, if you do find a tool not to your liking before you throw it away consider if it could be modified/ground to suit that awkward little job you tried and may want to tackle another time.
 
I have always maintained that as long as the tool was HSS (High Speed Steel) the maker didn't matter that much.
As far as I know there is no fake HSS on the market - by that I mean tools that purport to be HSS but are actually made from some cheap & nasty metal.
Sometimes the handle can make a difference. It took me a long time to realize that my preferred tools were the thinner handled ones made by Ashley Iles.

Edit:
And of course we sometimes choose a carbon steel tool eg for pine - because it can be sharper than HSS but only last a short time before needing sharpening again.
 
Bodrighy":3ljflzye said:
......... half my tools have been sourced at boot sales and the 2nd hand stalls at timber shows and most of my skews are older carbon steel ones.
pete
Much the same here except I also make my own from HSS round bar. Most of my large but motley collection are old, some very old. I haven't bought new except a few when I first started aeons ago.
 
Thanks for the comments guys.
I have to say that my RS tools tend to hold their edge longer than the Record and Crown. For me both are comfortable to use depending on what I'm turning. I tend to use the Record with the shorter handles for small work and the longer handled RS for bigger jobs.

One of the tools I've just not managed to master is the Skew, I will persevere but I'm getting to a stage where I'm becoming scared of using it.

I also like the idea of regrinding a tool to cope with that one off job, I have a couple of tools that I can do this with, although I'm not sure they are HSS.
 
Waka":2c7mweo2 said:
.....I also like the idea of regrinding a tool to cope with that one off job, I have a couple of tools that I can do this with, although I'm not sure they are HSS.
No matter if they're carbon steel, for occasional jobs they will last ages between sharpening on small jobs, might even be a benefit with their potential to hold a sharper edge. After all, before HSS Carbon Steel was the workhorse of production.
 
CHJ":2mvxc58d said:
...if you don't find the balance of one suits you try changing the handle to a size/length/shape you find more comfortable.
+1 for Chas' comment here and while we're on it why buy a handled tool at all? It costs you money and will often be the wrong size for you.

This is one of the main advantages of Ashley Isles tools which are all available unhandled although Robert Sorby and Crown will supply their tools unhandled too.

We're all turners here I assume and a handle is child's play to make (e.g. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post790422.html?hilit=handle#p790422).

Jon
 
For my tools it's always copper tube offcuts - turning chisels, file handles etc. Can't beat getting something for free.

K
 
Waka":29lex33f said:
One of the tools I've just not managed to master is the Skew, I will persevere but I'm getting to a stage where I'm becoming scared of using it.
I know a professional turner who believes the skew should be banned.
I disagree, but it can be scary to get the hang of.
One of the best youtube demos of the skew I have seen is by Brendan Stemp. It certainly helped me come to terms with where I was going wrong.

Don't give up on it. It's a really good tool with so many different uses.
 
The skew is possibly the most versatile tool there is. I agree it can be a pig to master at first especially if you use one of those curved shaped monstrosities.

Pete
 
Bodrighy":2zrpxgdt said:
I agree it can be a pig to master at first especially if you use one of those curved shaped monstrosities.

Pete
Like mine :D
I have a curved 1" skew and a flat ½" one. The ½" one is a Crown which I use for pens. I find it makes a great job of shaping the barrels.
 
I have to admit i till can't use a skew as a skew. I do use it often as a negative rake scraper, especially for getting the dovetail mortices for the chuk jaws.

Yesterday I was trying to turn some cheap lightweight pine. all of my bowl gouges were tearing, even after being sharpened. So in the end I switched to using a 1/2" spindle gouge. With its sharper angle it helped a lot. I was especially pleased by the way I could use it to push cut the inside of the bowls. (Fortunately a shallow curve). One of the four kept splitting so it ended up as something completely different after I had played with it with the spindle gouge.
No idea what to call it :)

Luckily I only needed a "pair"

Maybe I will regrind a bowl gouge to that sharper angle for those difficult woods. The pine is my first glued together bits of wood for turning..

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Tazmaniandevil":2shamgq6 said:
Waka":2shamgq6 said:
One of the tools I've just not managed to master is the Skew, I will persevere but I'm getting to a stage where I'm becoming scared of using it.
I know a professional turner who believes the skew should be banned.
I disagree, but it can be scary to get the hang of.
One of the best youtube demos of the skew I have seen is by Brendan Stemp. It certainly helped me come to terms with where I was going wrong.

Don't give up on it. It's a really good tool with so many different uses.

Thanks for the link, I think that's a good demonstration of what to do and what not to do.
I think I'll have another practice tomorrow, hopefully I can stop the wood taking flying lessons around the WS.
 
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