turning oak

[Gordon T]

Hello all, have been turning a vase and a hollow form out of what turned out to be a very hard piece of oak, today I noticed my toolrest and parts of my bed bars have changed colour..... I know its the tanin in the oak that caused it, but does any one know how to remove the stains????

GT

 

[maltrout512]

I have used something like 600 or 800 wet and dry before, mainly on chisels. Try lightly to see first.

 

[johnny.t.]

steel wool should take it off

 

[loz]

And a nice coat of silicon to get things sliding nicely again on your bed bars

 

[CHJ]

And a nice coat of silicon to get things sliding nicely again on your bed bars

I personally would not use any Silicone product on machines or tools associated with work requiring a finish or adhesives loz. It makes a very good release agent and can prevent bonding of finishes and adhesives.

If you have ever tried to apply gloss paint to a door or the like after the owner has liberally sprayed the room furniture with silicone polish you would know what I mean.

 

[Lightweeder]

Gordon - I've been having the same problems. The runners, toolrest, etc etc - but worst of all for me is the chucking point. If you can rechuck it, to take off the black stains, you've got to protect it from staining the new end :shock:

 

[loz]

It makes a very good release agent and can prevent bonding of finishes and adhesives.

Thats exactly the required action though Chas ? the keep the bed bars clean and free of gunk, enable banjo to slide freely etc,

I also use the same on my bandsaw table.

I do abviously mean keeping the application local to the bars, and not spraying all over the lathe.

 

[CHJ]

It makes a very good release agent and can prevent bonding of finishes and adhesives.

Thats exactly the required action though Chas ? the keep the bed bars clean and free of gunk, enable banjo to slide freely etc,

I also use the same on my bandsaw table.

I do abviously mean keeping the application local to the bars, and not spraying all over the lathe.

It does have a habit of transferring to everything else in the workshop via your hands, I have worked in areas* were I have had to enforce the banning of it's use, even as a constituent of hand/face creams etc. and staff had to 'purge wash' their hands before commencing work.

*(Electronics and composite bonding)

 

[loz]

Thansk the info Chas,

I'll ensure not to get any near my finishing table, and will ensure to use the same rag to clean excess off my bars, BS table in future.

I'm sure the stuff can't survive the IPA bath in the electronics workshop though ;-)


Regs

Loz

 

[thomvic]

WD40 will clean it off.

Richard

 

[Gordon T]

Thanks for all the advice, I managed to clean the bed bars using wire wool and finishing wax, the tool rest is so far resisting my efforts. The tools will eventually recover after many sharpening sessions I suppose.

Finished the hollowing out yesterday and unlike the previous day the shavings were bone dry......a very strange piece of oak. Iam just hoping now it doesnt warp or split too badly in the warmth of the living room

GT

 

[Lightweeder]

Just a bit of fun, really, but I've been turning some sopping wet oak recently. Most've been ok, but one has cracked and I've filled it with copper powder. It just seems to belong, somehow. I think the crack is widening, but I'll let it finish and put a bit more in :wink:

 

[duncanh]

Just a bit of fun, really, but I've been turning some sopping wet oak recently. Most've been ok, but one has cracked and I've filled it with copper powder. It just seems to belong, somehow. I think the crack is widening, but I'll let it finish and put a bit more in :wink:

Was this the oak from the back of your house? I've had some good turnings out of it so far and still have quite a bit to go I think I pushed the limits of the lathe hollowing depth wise but it was great fun.


Something I did when turning wet oak was to spray rust protector over exposed surface before I started. Whilst turning I had a plastic bag taped round the bed to prevent spray. If you try this make sure it's well taped and won't get caught by the wood.
When I do get rust or tannin staining I usually rub down with 400 or 600 grit. I occasionally apply paste wax to the bed and rest.

 

[Lightweeder]

Sorry Duncan, just spotted this. Yes, it's the stuff from our wood. I've broken all the rules, but Geoff cut some cross section, and some have worked OK, but I just have no proper hollowing equipment and that's the problem for me.