Track saws and thin blades

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I personally think that wondering about blade thickness is a bit of a rabbit hole that leads no where. IMO we can look at various other thin kerf saws to see that they work perfectly in all sorts of material. For instance, band saw blades or Japanese pull saws. For me there are only typically six things that cause blade wander some of which have been eliminated.
1. Tracking of the blade to the direction of the cut. It’s stated this is perfect.
2. Clamping of the blade, ie not tight or something behind or on the flanges.
3. Peripheral blade speed too fast….this is set by Mafell so we can assume it’s correct.
4. Blunt blade or a blade with uneven tooth offset. However the issue has been found with a variety of new blades.
5. Pushing the saw too fast into the stuff causing the tooth gullets to clog. This will cause deflection and heating of the blade.
6. Wrong tooth count or tooth geometry for the cut being made.

We don’t know what tooth count is being used, I’m guessing it’s too high and is a major contributor probably in association with pushing it through the stuff up fast.
 
Bandsaws are under tension, so are pull saws (in use). That's why they can be thinner. But you know that.
 
Bandsaws are under tension, so are pull saws (in use). That's why they can be thinner. But you know that.
Circular saw blades are fully supported from the spindle through to the teeth, they don’t rely on beam strength for rigidity. That said the better ones have a tension ring usually around 2/3 of the way out from the centre to help prevent oscillation and improve the cut quality.
 
Circular saw blades are fully supported from the spindle through to the teeth, they don’t rely on beam strength for rigidity. That said the better ones have a tension ring usually around 2/3 of the way out from the centre to help prevent oscillation and improve the cut quality.
Sorry, are you suggesting that the thickness of the disc is irrelevant?
 

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