Tips wanted for doing kitchen work top joints

[Beau]

Starting to help a friend fit kitchens. Up to know almost all of them have been solid wood or square edged tops to so just been butt jointing with biscuits and and worktop joiners. Today we were doing a bullnose top so out comes the worktop jig and router but like any kitchen I get to work on the walls are well out of square so to get a good joint the jig has to be set up slightly out of square so you cant rely on the pegs for location. Through some careful measuring and marking we ended up with nice joints but it was slow going. I am sure there are better ways but being new to this area of woodwork I am not familiar with them so looking for guidance on how the pro's do this when time is of the essence. Thanks

 

[Doug71]

The more expensive jigs are adjustable for angles other than 90 degrees, I presume this is what people who regularly fit worktops use.

I know nothing about them but know they are available, for example

https://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technol ... jig-508615

 

[Rorschach]

I thought you just make the joint square and then scribe the worktop to the walls after?

 

[Beau]

The more expensive jigs are adjustable for angles other than 90 degrees, I presume this is what people who regularly fit worktops use.

I know nothing about them but know they are available, for example

https://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technol ... jig-508615

That looks perfect. Not looked at jigs as the chap I work with owns what I thought was a good one. Thanks

 

[Beau]

I thought you just make the joint square and then scribe the worktop to the walls after?

That might be fine if the angle was slight or the worktop short but when you have a degree or so on a 3m run you would end up with things looking pretty squiffy

 

[Deejay]

Morning Beau

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4F6pOoy2-8

The 'unsquare ' bit starts at about 9:50.

It is slow, but how often do you do it?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Jamied]

I've been kitchen fitting for twenty years now, I've tried various jigs, and the better ones do help, but I still use the same system that works effectively for me
I start with the worktop on the left side first,I Mark on the front edge the point where the next top front will be ( after ascribing to the wall) . I then with the jig cut in a female joint with the pegs making sure the cutter stops at that front Mark.
The next top I raise up with offcuts so it sits on top of the first joint but in position (ie correct overhang on the front to the carcass).
I then strike a line underneath that top following the female cut done previously.
Onto the trestles, face down, I can then put my jig on this top, moving the jig left or right so the router blade touches the inside of the pencil line at the front and rear of the worktop.
A quick clamp front and back to keep that position and the jig can then be slid forward or back till the cutter follows the curved part of the line for the bullnose. It can then be fully clamped and cut. If you cut correctly to that marked line of the female cut, the male cut should match nicely.
Works for me.

 

[Beau]

I've been kitchen fitting for twenty years now, I've tried various jigs, and the better ones do help, but I still use the same system that works effectively for me
I start with the worktop on the left side first,I Mark on the front edge the point where the next top front will be ( after ascribing to the wall) . I then with the jig cut in a female joint with the pegs making sure the cutter stops at that front Mark.
The next top I raise up with offcuts so it sits on top of the first joint but in position (ie correct overhang on the front to the carcass).
I then strike a line underneath that top following the female cut done previously.
Onto the trestles, face down, I can then put my jig on this top, moving the jig left or right so the router blade touches the inside of the pencil line at the front and rear of the worktop.
A quick clamp front and back to keep that position and the jig can then be slid forward or back till the cutter follows the curved part of the line for the bullnose. It can then be fully clamped and cut. If you cut correctly to that marked line of the female cut, the male cut should match nicely.
Works for me.

Yes that is more or less what I did yesterday. The snag with my router (old Elu 177E) is you cant see the cutter past the 30mm collar. I put a parallel mark 8.5 and a bit mm away to guide the jig too but being able to see the cutter would be much better. I got away with it this time but there was an element of luck that the fronts lined up so well and dont want to leave this to chance next time. What router do you use? Also any recommends on cutters? My mate had a a new Titan one but by the fourth cut it was smoking!

 

[Beau]

Morning Beau

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4F6pOoy2-8

The 'unsquare ' bit starts at about 9:50.

It is slow, but how often do you do it?

Cheers

Dave

Thanks Dave. I will watch it all later but at first glance I cant see why he did not cut the male part first and avoid the transferring of lines to other side. Looks like an unnecessary way for errors to creep in. Not watched it all as I have to go so maybe there is a reason. Pretty casual with dumping tools on the worktop as well!

 

[Deejay]

Afternoon Beau
I cant see why he did not cut the male part first and avoid the transferring of lines to other side. Looks like an unnecessary way for errors to creep in.

Good point. I've always done it that way, but I can'think what difference it makes. Any ideas anyone?

Router bits. Have a look at Wealden ...

https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin/ss0 ... TION=Go%21.

Cheaper than the likes of Trend and in my (DIY) experience, just as good.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Beau]

The Wealdon link also led me to this https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/On ... e_711.html

My current 30mm guide bush is very different and takes up loads of space but this base with the simple bush will enable me to sight the cutter like Jamied suggests. Looks like I have a plan.

Thanks Gents

 

[Beau]

Afternoon Beau
I cant see why he did not cut the male part first and avoid the transferring of lines to other side. Looks like an unnecessary way for errors to creep in.

Good point. I've always done it that way, but I can'think what difference it makes. Any ideas anyone?

Router bits. Have a look at Wealden ...

https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin/ss0 ... TION=Go%21.


Cheaper than the likes of Trend and in my (DIY) experience, just as good.

Cheers

Dave

Do you use the ones with the replaceable cutters?

 

[Deejay]

Hello Beau

I only do DIY stuff, so I don't bother with the replaceable cutters.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Beau]

Hello Beau

I only do DIY stuff, so I don't bother with the replaceable cutters.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks Dave. I have ordered one anyway and we will see how it goes

 

[Beau]

Afternoon Beau
I cant see why he did not cut the male part first and avoid the transferring of lines to other side. Looks like an unnecessary way for errors to creep in.

Good point. I've always done it that way, but I can'think what difference it makes. Any ideas anyone?

Router bits. Have a look at Wealden ...

https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin/ss0 ... TION=Go%21.

Cheaper than the likes of Trend and in my (DIY) experience, just as good.

Cheers

Dave

Just got to use the new guide bush and cutter. Went for this replaceable tip one from Wealdon https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin/sh0 ... 13_2d1_2f2

Firstly Wealdon were exceptionally helpful finding the right bush combination for my old router and secondly the bit is superb. Cuts and clears so much better than the Titan ones we had used before and appears to be holding it's edge much better as well.

Thanks for all the advise guys and a big thanks to Wealdon as well