Tips for arcade machine monitor mounting

[JonT]

I need to mount a flat screen monitor panel into a sheet of MDF for an arcade machine I am building. Attached are pics of the panel from the top and side (as you can see, I removed it from its case).

I want to mount the panel in a sheet of MDF. I need to cut a hole in the MDF the size of the visible screen, and a rebate so that the silver frame has a hole to slot into.

I am a complete router novice, so need some guidance on how to make the visible screen shaped hole (needs square corners) and how to make the rebate for the frame to slot in to. Could do with guidance on router tools necessary and tips for suitable jigs.

 

[CHJ]

How are you finishing the front face of the frame?

You could just make the frame up of four straight edged sections glued at the corners like a simple picture frame.
Back this with another similarly constructed frame with larger opening to form the location rebate.

 

[Chems]

+1 for Chas idea, if you work out what you need on sketchup and make a cutting list, you could take it to your local B&Q and have them cut it from one of the half boards of MDF they have for not to much money. They just glue it up at home.

 

[JonT]

Thanks for the replies. I am probably going to cover the front with black formica, which would obviously cover any joints as you suggested, but as I am not 100% sure on the finish yet (may paint it) I want to stick with routing the hole.

In the end I made a router jig of sorts. I used straight lengths of MDF, double-sided sticky taped down, to form an oversized rectangle, then cut out the hole using my router and router collet. The corners were not right angles but in the end that looked OK. I routed in a bevel on the front as well, which looks nice I think (picture below).

Unfortunately I think I cut too deep on the first few passes with the router, and the bit jumped a bit causing slight notches. I had to move the template outwards slightly and do another pass with the router, which meant that the hole is slightly too large now and the silver frame of the monitor is visible. So, will be trying again; any ideas on better technique than double sided sticky tape appreciated (clamps proved difficult too as they obstructed the router).

Picture of the cabinet below the mounted monitor for anyone into arcade cabs :wink:

 

[AndyT]

So, will be trying again; any ideas on better technique than double sided sticky tape appreciated (clamps proved difficult too as they obstructed the router).

You could just screw your battens down temporarily, filling in the holes afterwards - but if you are covering the front with Formica, the holes would be invisible anyway.

 

[JonT]

So, will be trying again; any ideas on better technique than double sided sticky tape appreciated (clamps proved difficult too as they obstructed the router).

You could just screw your battens down temporarily, filling in the holes afterwards - but if you are covering the front with Formica, the holes would be invisible anyway.

That's a good idea , I'll give that a try on the next attempt. Thanks.

 

[chippy1970]

What software will you use with it when its up and running MAME ??

 

[JonT]

Will probably use MAME UI. I have the PC and peripherals already - just need to get my backside in gear and get it finished now....

 

[Eric The Viking]

It may be too late now, but might I offer an alternative suggestion:

Your monitor panel is fragile. It would be much safer to mount it with either toughened glass or Perspex in front to protect it and make it easy to clean (it's sloping so that will attract dust and dirt). The panel then doesn't need to be flush with anything. You could use a piece the same size or just bigger than the monitor, but if you had Perspex the same dimensions as the front panel, you could fix it around the edges of the panel, leaving you with a nicely smooth surface, protecting your panel at the same time. A light grey tint will, in most cases, also improve the contrast, but if you have clear and wanted to be ultra posh you could paint designs on the inside surface, like the old pinball machines and one-armed bandits.

If you do use perspex, drill it slowly with a sharp drill, and light pressure only, to avoid heating and cracking. I've heard of people using a small amount of water behind a 'dam' of plasticene to keep it cool. Cutting is easier, as you have a choice of weaponry, but can finish to a smooth edge with sanding, going down through the grits.

Hope that's useful and not too late.

E.

PS: Blackboard paint is fairly cheap, and readily available. It looks good on the edges of the reveal. I've done that on the wooden surround for the telly in our bathroom. It's ordinary deal, not MDF, but the principle's the same. The TV is behind glass, as is the wooden surround. HTH.