Argus
Established Member
You can occasionally see some really odd stuff on e bay, but this one demanded a second look.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-No-27 ... 1a012d3685
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-No-27 ... 1a012d3685
three in one................?
- Thread starter Argus
- Start date
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Doug B
Shy Tot
Looks like the tools intact, perhaps the last user had arthritis & struggled to grip the tool, nothing stopping the winning bidder dismantling it
Argus
Established Member
...... go on - own up!
Who's bid on it?
Who's bid on it?
custard
Established Member
I've seen one or two router planes that had really long soles, maybe 300mm long. They didn't look user made, but I've never seen one up for sale.
I'd find something like that very useful for tweaking large tenons. I've fitted a longer sole to a router plane when I've needed this facility but because I always get an anxiety attack and use a fairly heavy scantling it doesn't leave as much plunge depth as I'd like! A flat and true metal plate that securely connected to the sole would find a place in my toolbox if anyone were to ever make such a thing.
I'd find something like that very useful for tweaking large tenons. I've fitted a longer sole to a router plane when I've needed this facility but because I always get an anxiety attack and use a fairly heavy scantling it doesn't leave as much plunge depth as I'd like! A flat and true metal plate that securely connected to the sole would find a place in my toolbox if anyone were to ever make such a thing.
Argus
Established Member
custard":e2cq6fpr said:
That thing for sale was a bit of an oddity, especially given the limited size and reach of the small Stanley router; still, it went for about the going rate of a Stanley 271.
I agree with the need for long soles; conventional hand routers have the blade mounted centrally which means that it needs to approach the cut at right angles.
For large tenons I use an old Preston router for trimming tenon faces because you can mount the cutter at one end in place of the handle and it has a sole length of about 8 inches which means that you can run the base on the face side of the board, cutting in the direction of the grain. If you use the same router as a mark for the side of the mortise it ensures that the face sides of the mortise and tenon members align exactly in the same plane, if that is what is required.
I have also made a long plane about 11 inches in length, as you described, for this purpose when I had a need for over 50 identical tenons using an old 1/2" plough blade.
I'll dig out some photos if you're interested.
All best
Argus
Established Member
Let's see if I can get the hang of this photo malarky.............. here goes.
The two router planes I was talking about are side by side in the picture (with a 1/2 inch mullet in the middle)
You can see the construction using a few bits of spare Ash. The cutters are from an old and broken wooden plough plane. Because the blades are tapered back wards, and because the tip is taking some considerable force it tends not to move in use, .
In practice you run it on the face side of the tenon like this:
I also use this as the mark of the mortise side from its face side, which is where I register the edge of the chisel. This as the final cut on the tenon face; the wedge is locked in place for the duration of the job - it doesn't get adjusted. If you get this bit right it ensures that the shoulder depth and the meeting of the two face sides are on the same plane if that is what is required. The tenon face is also dead flat.
The other side is then cut and trimmed to give a good fit in the mortise.
Hope this gives you some ideas. It works well if you have a long run of lots of tenons with the same shoulder depth and ensures repeatable results.
The two router planes I was talking about are side by side in the picture (with a 1/2 inch mullet in the middle)
You can see the construction using a few bits of spare Ash. The cutters are from an old and broken wooden plough plane. Because the blades are tapered back wards, and because the tip is taking some considerable force it tends not to move in use, .
In practice you run it on the face side of the tenon like this:
I also use this as the mark of the mortise side from its face side, which is where I register the edge of the chisel. This as the final cut on the tenon face; the wedge is locked in place for the duration of the job - it doesn't get adjusted. If you get this bit right it ensures that the shoulder depth and the meeting of the two face sides are on the same plane if that is what is required. The tenon face is also dead flat.
The other side is then cut and trimmed to give a good fit in the mortise.
Hope this gives you some ideas. It works well if you have a long run of lots of tenons with the same shoulder depth and ensures repeatable results.
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Nice one Argus. Not only were you smart enough to get a Preston router before Paul Sellers praised it so much that the eBay price went over a ton, you've shown us a practical way to not need one! Many thanks.
