woodbloke
Established Member
Has anyone seen the d/t marking knife project in the latest F&C? Looks very good so I may well make on later on...need to source some of those scalpel blades firstly (I know that PFT have got a selection) - Rob
The Barron Blade
- Thread starter woodbloke
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
xy mosian
Established Member
Rob, I haven't seen the article but if you're after a few scalpel blades I might be able to help. Which blades are used?
xy
xy
woodbloke
Established Member
The blades used in the project are Swann Morton SM01, quite chunky by the looks of it and apparently 0.6mm thick - Robxy mosian":2n2sjyqp said:
I've not delt with them myself but packs of 50 (should last a while) are £6 from here.
http://www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk/
Or you could try your local craft or model aircraft,boat,car shop.
Steve.
http://www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk/
Or you could try your local craft or model aircraft,boat,car shop.
Steve.
xy mosian
Established Member
Sorry Rob, not one of the ones I have.
xy
xy
woodbloke
Established Member
No worries, xy, thanks for looking, I'll have a quick nose round PFT next time I'm in town - Robxy mosian":2z5uvhq6 said:
woodbloke
Established Member
Pete - the bevel on the blade is on both edges...Barron seems to disregard this fact in the text which I find odd :? as there will be a very small discrepancy (ie half the thickness of the blade, 0.3mm) when it's used single edged for marking out. I don't know though if this would make any appreciable difference to the accuracy of the joint? - Robnewt":235tnmri said:
Paul Chapman
Established Member
woodbloke":25lees2j said:
I suppose you could always hold the knife at a slight angle when using it, so that the bevel is in contact with the straight edge :-k
Cheers :wink:
Paul
woodbloke
Established Member
My thought as well Paul, but it does make it slightly more awkward to use - Rob
Paul Chapman
Established Member
woodbloke":gyxq52k5 said:
Yes, much better to use blades beveled on one side.........
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Mr Ed
Established Member
I'm not sure about the accuracy argument. I use Swann and Morton scalpel blades (although not the one you referred to) in my marking gauges. These 10A blades are .35 thick, half of which is 0.175 which I can't see as being significant.
I know that a single bevel blade is best, but where an element of disposability is wanted the scalpel blade is a good choice.
Ed
I know that a single bevel blade is best, but where an element of disposability is wanted the scalpel blade is a good choice.
Ed
woodbloke
Established Member
...which is why a knife with a 'V' point ought to be better - RobPaul Chapman":1464ntjf said:
The Barron blade is epoxied in, so not very disposable?
On reading the article I had assumed they were single beveled and was probably confused when he showed sharpening the "back" (which was really the top) and fitting the blade correctly for the correct hand (I suppose he was referring to the thumb depression?)
Will probably find out for certain tomorrow when my blades arrive?
Wonder if they will fit my Veritas holder?
Rod
On reading the article I had assumed they were single beveled and was probably confused when he showed sharpening the "back" (which was really the top) and fitting the blade correctly for the correct hand (I suppose he was referring to the thumb depression?)
Will probably find out for certain tomorrow when my blades arrive?
Wonder if they will fit my Veritas holder?
Rod
Tony Spear
Established Member
Harbo":2f98sp50 said:
The 10A blades certainly fit my standard Swann Morton No.3 holder! :wink:
woodbloke
Established Member
Rod - this is the thing that was getting me confused. The blades are conventional double bevelled scalpel blades. The thumb depression is a neat idea and makes the knife 'handed' but thinking about it a little more, I'm not sure it's the 'ultimate' d/t knife simply because of this bevel issue on the blades - RobHarbo":2ozj2cr4 said:
I thought the whole object of a good marking knife was single bevel, which is more accurate as you can hold it vertical which is useful when marking small pins. Perhaps it does not matter after all, an over hyped parameter 
.I found when I used a scalpel that I tended to sometimes cut into the side of the tail, which I think may have been due to flex, this may not be the case here as Davids blades are thicker. The thing that surprised me was that they are fixed in the holder, not disposable.
.I found when I used a scalpel that I tended to sometimes cut into the side of the tail, which I think may have been due to flex, this may not be the case here as Davids blades are thicker. The thing that surprised me was that they are fixed in the holder, not disposable.
Alf
Established Member
Jeff Gorman has an interesting take on the matter of bevels on marking knives; worth a read. I also seem to recall scalpel knives being considered to give too thin a line?
I don't think these are scalpel blades as such, just similar looking, and made by Swann Morton. http://www.craftknives.co.uk/products/smo_r.html
I wouldn't want to build one in to a permanent holder, even if they are very beefed up from a scalpel blade. Especially when that Swann Morton holder is about £2 and would allow you to change the blade when it snaps or dulls (and at 6p each, I would avoid the sharpening). But then I'm a heathen and fairly immune to african blackwood etc.
I wouldn't want to build one in to a permanent holder, even if they are very beefed up from a scalpel blade. Especially when that Swann Morton holder is about £2 and would allow you to change the blade when it snaps or dulls (and at 6p each, I would avoid the sharpening). But then I'm a heathen and fairly immune to african blackwood etc.
