Temporary Assembly Table

[pollys13]

Because of available space I'm looking to make an easy up easy down temporary assembly table to use as and when required.
I know the assembly table should be flat, the size I'm looking at is 7 ft x 7 ft. This would be large enough to support my roughly 6 ft square window frames.

I've seen Marc Spagnuolo's ( The Wood Whisperer ) torsion box assembly table top, made using ultralight MDF. A 4 x 8 x 18mm sheet I think would weigh around 30Kg so 2 of these and the mdf for the torsion grid starts to equal a lot of weight. There will be times I would have to move this on my own and store on its side, if storing on its side would be ok. Moving it by myself, as so heavy makes the torsion box a bit of a non starter.

To make up an assembly support for his torsion box he uses, a sort of temporary setup, see attached. Perhaps something along those lines?
Mr Spagnulolo goes on to say, the table doesn't need to be precision dead flat, as if prepared the timber sections correctly, they are pretty much self fitting.
Has anyone any ideas for putting together an easy up easy down temporary assembly table ?
Cheers,

 

[petermillard]

If you can live with a slightly narrower table, how about 3# 2032 x 813 flush doors as the surface (flat and lightweight, £24 each from TP) on trestles/rails between trestles?

 

[pollys13]

I'm using a Wickes single hollow door and had a sheet of MDF cut to size to pin on top, resting on a pair of telescopic trestles, braced against a wall. This is an assembly table of sorts for making my work bench. I had thought of the same set up for a window assembly table. Though after finding out about torsion type assembly tables. I got a bit put off, feeling that the door approach wouldn't produce a required flat level surface. As your an experienced wood worker I'll take your advice and go for it, unless someone comes along with what seems a better idea.
Cheers for that Peter.

 

[Steve Maskery]

sore-hoarses-mkii-now-with-added-plans-t44761.html

Aiden Tiddles designed this several years ago. I made it up and it is excellent, I use it all the time.

Mine is ready for remaking, really, and when I do I shall make the rails 150mm instead of 200mm, I think that will get me an extra inch of height. The whole thing can be made from a single sheet of 8x4.

 

[pollys13]

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/sore-hoarses-mkii-now-with-added-plans-t44761.html

Aiden Tiddles designed this several years ago. I made it up and it is excellent, I use it all the time.

Mine is ready for remaking, really, and when I do I shall make the rails 150mm instead of 200mm, I think that will get me an extra inch of height. The whole thing can be made from a single sheet of 8x4.

Hi Steve,
With Peter Millards idea of using 3 Wickes solid core doors. I could see problems getting them level with each other. Aiden, Tiddles approach is a significient improvement.
I read Aiden, Tiddles topic and the threads. Seems to be more or less the ideal solution.
The whole frame, base just slots into place, no glue, so can be dissembled?

You said, "Can you tell me what grade plywood you used and how weather-resistant it is? Mine is likely to sit permanently outside. "
I couldn't see a reply to your question, mine is going to have to be outside too.The veg plot one half is now my wood store for scavenged roadside wood for my burner, 3 clear plastics sheets as roof, open sides. The other half of the plot is bare, will put table there on top of concrete blocks snd cover with plastic tarpaulin. What would be the best quality of plywood for outside, can I treat the plywood in anyway to make it even more suitable for being outside, covered with tarpaulin?

I have like a 2/3 sheet of a 8 x 4 sheet of mdf 18mm. I put the 50 inch precision straightedge on it, the MDF is not perfectly flat. With getting an 8 x 4 plywood sheet am I going to have problems getting a flat sheet? I may not be very popular with the staff asking them to help me haul out sheets off the pile to test for flat with the straightedge.

You also said, " I have an idea for an addition to it. I damaged mine by lifting and dropping a very heavy 8x4 of 18mm MRMDF. It would have been better if I could have rotated it gently from vertical to horizontal. I propose a swinging cradle between two of the short pieces, with feet near the bottom and which extend, say 18" above the platform. Drop the long edge of the board onto the feet and swing the lot from V to H then slide the board over into position. Remove the cradle if it is in the way. I have an idea of how to achieve this, I'll keep everyone posted."

Did you pursue this idea?

" I didn't realize, when I started, that the working height of this is a bit under 600mm. That is quite a lot lower than the setup it's replacing. For some things it might actually be better, but I use it for a lot more than just sawing, so it's a bit back-breaking. It is easier to get panels onto, though."

I'll have to amend the plans that deal with the template for the legs. I'm wondering the amount I'll need to alter the dimensions of the stand legs to bring it up to workable assembly table height.

The photo of your completed version the photo seems to have been deleted.

Cheers for this Steve, I'll think this will be a big help, for when I get to the stage of being ready to actually start to make up Coleys practice windows and then mine proper.

 

[AndyT]

If you're looking for something to make the Tiddles bench from, which will survive ok outside, have a look for Buffalo board or Rhino board. It's used for children's climbing frames and deck boards on small boats. Very tough and weatherproof. Probably not cheap though.

 

[Steve Maskery]

What would be the best quality of plywood for outside, can I treat the plywood in anyway to make it even more suitable for being outside, covered with tarpaulin?

I think I just bought a sheet of exterior-grade 18mm ply. If it is stamped WBP (Water- and Boil-proof, though why anyone would want to boil their plywood is beyond me), then it should last for years. The only reason mine needs rplacing is that it sat in a barn for 2 years and none of the boards are straight any more.

You also said, " I have an idea for an addition to it. I damaged mine by lifting and dropping a very heavy 8x4 of 18mm MRMDF. It would have been better if I could have rotated it gently from vertical to horizontal. I propose a swinging cradle between two of the short pieces, with feet near the bottom and which extend, say 18" above the platform. Drop the long edge of the board onto the feet and swing the lot from V to H then slide the board over into position. Remove the cradle if it is in the way. I have an idea of how to achieve this, I'll keep everyone posted."

Did you pursue this idea?

No, but I wish I had, it sounds like a good idea!

I'll have to amend the plans that deal with the template for the legs. I'm wondering the amount I'll need to alter the dimensions of the stand legs to bring it up to workable assembly table height.

As I say, I shall make the components 150mm instead of 200. It will still be as strong as a horse and the difference in height will be handy.

 

[Eric The Viking]

If you're looking for something to make the Tiddles bench from, which will survive ok outside, have a look for Buffalo board or Rhino board. It's used for children's climbing frames and deck boards on small boats. Very tough and weatherproof. Probably not cheap though.

I got a sheet early last year: it was around 75.00 from Avon PLy, but I can't remember if there was VAT on that. I agree it's good for outdoor stuff, BUT the melamine finish is hard on all edge tools, including router bits, saws and Forstner drills.

I got mine reduced from the full size with a cutting list, to save a bit of wear on my railsaw, but Aidan's plans do require interlocking layout of the pieces on the sheet (I believe he used big-scale CNC to cut out his pieces). As Steve says, it is jolly excellent though.

That said, I'm going for a table from CNC Design as soon as I've tidied up a bit. Excellent value considering, and my rail saw will love it!.

 

[RobinBHM]

I would say use a pair of trestles for assembling window frames. If you are worried about being flat then set a pair of trestles in the right position and eye them through to make sure they are parallel to one another.

My joinery shop doesnt even have a workbench, it does however have about 10 pairs of trestles and we've made thousands of windows on them over the years.

Window frames are screw together construction and precision in term of flatness is not hugely important. Whilst doors and window sashes are best assembled flat, once again trestles are perfectly fine for it.

The key to producing flat square frames or sashes is; dead square shoulders on tenons, accurate marking out, flat timber, sash clamps arranged flat and parallel to one another and then adjusted only if the item clamped is out of square. Once assemble if you move the item to the floor or are leaning it up against a wall make sure it stays flat, to avoid introducing wind during drying

having a 7ft square table is going to be right in the way and be awkward for clamping, moving etc etc.

Also a workbench is a flat surface, which as any woodworker will know has magical powers which means it will always have to be cleared of 'stuff' before it can be used for its intended use.

timber trestles with splayed legs and ply gussets are the best. Those blue metal ones are far too wobbly.

 

[pollys13]

Timber trestles with splayed legs and ply gussets are the best. Those blue metal ones are far too wobbly.
Ah, ok thanks for that. I'll see if I can find any plans for nice long, tall ones which can accommodate the big lounge window frames.
If bog standard timber is suitable to make them up, ( Like I'm thinking Wickes whitewood stuff, though will probable need to use the planer to square up ) but if I can find another, more durable and suitable timber to make them and in the same price range, what should I be considering? How high should I make these trestles?

Uum, I don't have an available ready made floor area.As I mentioned the only space I have to do this, is outside on my old veg plot. So trestles would be supported on concrete blocks. I might have an awful time trying to get them level with each other. If that were to be the case then better to follow plan Steve told me about, I've got a Dewalt 1/2" 625 router and a Triton Router table which I can use to do Steves plan. ( From what little I know, is actually quite a good table. I did have a Triton 2000 Workcenter running a big powerful monster of aTriton circular saw in it, good saw but Workcenter left a lot to be desired, and safety concern. Also circular saw made a hell of a racket and a little Triton dust bucket, running off the vacuum cleaner.... oh well Also have a couple of those Triton telescopic stands with rotating vice head, which are pretty substantial, the stands I find are very durable and good quality.
Cheers.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Just to throw this in the mix.
Have you considered something along the lines of a paulk workbench.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sourc ... bE-tgsMZEw

 

[pollys13]

Just to throw this in the mix.
Have you considered something along the lines of a paulk workbench.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sourc ... bE-tgsMZEw

Thanks very much for that, your an absolute God Send
I've looked at the videos, his plans are very reasonably priced. I might be able to adapt the design to my needs.
The one behind him, seems a larger version. I'll email him.
Thanks again.

 

[pollys13]

As an easy up, easy down portable assembly table I've decided to make the Paulk workbench Mk II.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnNi6Tpp-ac
His plans make an 8' x 4' work bench for the Mk II version he use 1/2" ply instead of 3/4.
The frame for my replacement French doors in the extension is 82" x 82".
I can adapt the plans to make a larger assembly table if I need to, I don't want to if I don't have to..... if it ain't broke don't fix it
What I'd like to know is, if the window frame overhangs the table does that matter or does the frame need to be fully supported during clamping and glue up?

Mr Paulk has several YouTubes showing how he does the construction process of his benches.
I watched one of his YouTubes, showing the huge basement he made where the owners allow him tp park up his truck. Has an inbuilt swimming pool,toilets, shower, rooms, tennis court on roof and he built the owners house up the hill, quite something also you can tell he's a nice bloke.
Cheers.

 

[Chrispy]

By all means make a table the size of your garden but why? As has already been said all you need is four trestles or saw horses one in each corner then when you've done put them in your shed. .

 

[pollys13]

By all means make a table the size of your garden but why? As has already been said all you need is four trestles or saw horses one in each corner then when you've done put them in your shed. .

I don't have an available solid level surface to support 4 saw horses. If I supported them on blocks I can see everything going out of align.
Also the problem of trying to lugg around an 8 x 4 18mm sheet of plywood oft times by myself, getting it on off saw horses. I see there are sheet board lifters available, though they seem to all be two person jobs.

 

[Eric The Viking]

For sheets, I just use an 8x4 sheet of 2" thick polystyrene insulation, to put under the sheet of whatever-i'm-cutting, and lay that on the concrete outside the garage. It works fine, with the added benefit that it can't easily tip over.

It rather sounds like you can't win - if you don't have the space to cut up 8x4 sheet material, then you really don't.

Either make the space, or if that's impossible, you'll have to give a cutting list to the supplier. Circular saws are dangerous things, and it's really not worth trying to use them in a precarious situation. As you cut, the centre of gravity changes, and what looked to be stable and well balanced on trestles or overhanging a workbench can suddenly tip over.

Many sheet suppliers do a cutting service, and whilst you pay for it, you also get the advantage of being able to go back to them if there's a mistake (and usually they can cut better and with greater accuracy than even a rail saw setup). I use Avon Plywood (who have an enormous warehouse, and do deliver in your direction, but there's probably someone actually in Swindon). You don't have to get them to cut everything, either - just the awkward lengthwise cuts, for example, and the driver will love you if it's thick material as it'll be a lot nicer to get off the wagon (and store/move about in your workshop).

Of course, if you do it yourself and it goes wrong, you do get to keep both pieces.

E.

 

[pollys13]

Thanks for the advice.

 

[rhrwilliams]

You might want something better than this but I needed a big table for glueing up some stuff. So made this from hardwood window cill from a skip. Its basically 4.no 4" x 4" posts with 1/2 mortices and the sides and bearers are pegged in with quite big and deep tenons to keep it strong. Its very strong I can dance on it The ply just screwed into the top. So I can collapse it and move it easily. You just knock the pegs out, unscrew the top and leave it in my timber rack.

Interesting reading about the tresses. Its been on my to-do list to make a proper splayed set. There is an article on how to do it somewhere , I think Jacob may have written one perhaps. I might be mistaken.

 

[pollys13]

Good idea, thanks for that.