Table Saw advice!

[Shedman]

Back to the drawing board!

I'm looking for some advice about which table saw to replace my Scheppach TS200 with. I've never really got on with it, and it's now reached the stage where I'm getting another method of cutting timber rather than use the saw. I've looked at the Axminster versions and the Xcalibur 10 inch Cabinet saw as starting points, but have always valued the advice of members on this forum. Is there anything that you might suggest for me. It's hobby based but retirement is maybe 3-4 years away when I can completely lose myself in projects!!

Many thanks in advance

 

[Harbo]

I have Deft T30 (no longer available) but it’s from the same stable as the American Laguna and the Xcalibur.
Great saws and I would highly recommend them

Rod

 

[Selwyn]

I have an axminster 10" its good.

Look for one of them or the SIP version or a jet supersaw or something like that. Should be decent value second hand and good bits of kit.

Nice jet saw in Hove on ebay for £575. Good buy

 

[deema]

I started out with a secondhand Startrite TA with a 12” blade and sliding table. I found it to be a brilliant Saw, and the secondhand values highlight just what a well thought of Saw it is. The blade tilits away from the fence which means that you can make window tenons on it, (chamfer for cill etc can be cut). The fence for the sliding table slides back out of the way so that the table can dropped down and stored without removing the fence. I liked the adjustment on the fence and the rock solid lock.

I upgraded to a Sedgwick LK Saw, an old one with a blade that doesn’t title, the fence tilits instead. Again, this has a sliding table. The actual foot print is only slight larger than the Startrite, however, it’s a lot heavier machine, with much more solid construction. The saw will take a 16” blade......but you don’t have to put one in, a smaller say 10” blade can also be used just as easily. The benefits are that it can cut up to about 5 1/2” which if your ever making doors and windows is really useful. It has a 5KW motor (mine is a genuine 1ph machine) which means that it can chew through anything as fast as you can push it in! The Startrite only has a 1.2KW motor. The extra mass of the machine means that it is both more accurate as it has less vibration....you can balance a 2p on its edge whilst starting, running, stopping and it won’t fall over and it’s far quieter. The fence is better, more solid and completely rock solid. The only down side is that fence for the sliding table has to be removed when storing the sliding table. Of the two, which do I prefer? The Sedgwick, as the cut and accuracy is better.....not a lot to be fair.

I upgraded recently to a SCM as I now do more panel work and has a scribing blade large sliding table.

The Wadkin AGS Saw is also I believe highly regarded as are the modern Sedgwick TA saws. The common theme is mass, big lumps for the trunens, big bearings, and robust fences all made out of cast iron / steel with no aluminium to be seen!

From a personal perspective I would either buy new a Sedgwick or, buy a secondhand Startrite, Sedgwick, Multico, or Wadkin Saw. I know noise is often a concern, but I can only say that my LK Saw is IMO quieter than any of the modern hobby / small cabinet / table top saws I’ve come across except for some industrial saws (including the brushless motor variants)

 

[Ttrees]

I sought after the Startrite TA275DS for a few reasons.

Loads about so a bargain could be had, you know you will get one if you wanted one as they were used in many schools

I am using 13a plugs, so needed a three phase machine (I know these have a dual voltage motor that is 2.2KW/3HP)

Takes a 12" blade (Ive heard you can put a 14", but it wont lower or tilt fully, not sure which) 105mm depth of cut on 12" blade 75mm at 45.

Tilting arbor (TA) instead of a tilting fence, the sliding table is the (DS) models and yes, I use this sliding table.

Transportable at 210kg, can lift/cant on edge with around double the effort of... say a couch of bed, and fits in a small car

Has a slot in the table either side of the blade, which I want for crosscut sleds.

Riving knife, I think thats about it....

Bad points... base is flimsy, I was not opposed to making an internal frame if needed, but the mobile base sorts that issue out with the floor
so there is no misalignment's with the sliding table.

There is some misalignment when the blade is tilted at 45, but I have not found this an issue,
I think this is because of the single trunnion design thats mounted to the table.
The heavier saws have a trunnion mounted each end of a heavy base instead.

I suppose this single trunnion could be troublesome with a single phase machine, as the motor jerks on startup biting into
your zero clearance insert every time, but no issues noticed with the ramped startup on my 100 quid VFD.

I have taken apart the fence on my machine and noticed nothing wrong with it, although it keeps coming loose so I check it
regularly, I do like the adjustment design though.
This is evident that's its an old problem as the flat head screw slot is mashed up, its probably something small like a washer missing or something
I must raise the issue again.

I think thats everything, good luck with your decision
Tom

 

[Hot stuff]

I have a Jet exactly the same as the one in Hove and its a great saw. That's a good price as well, especially considering the condition. Easy to dismantle and re-assemble and an ideal opportunity to check everything is square and true.
Single mitre slot may be a disadvantage but not an insurmountable problem.
If the Jet hadn't turned up when it did then I'd have gone for a Deft or Xcalibur, they don't appear second hand that often though.

 

[Shedman]

Continuing with my research for this, does anyone have any experience of the Jet JTS-600?? Looks like it might do the job, particularly where space is limited! Off to the workshop with my tape later!!

 

[MikeJhn]

Unless I was constantly cutting full size sheets, I would look elsewhere, it just takes up too much room when using the side table, if your not going to use the side table your paying too much for a saw your not going to use to its full capacity.

Mike

 

[Ttrees]

Has anybody ever had a tablesaw with a sliding table and never used it?
I doubt it.
I do have to move it around to use it, but that's what mobile bases are for.
Both of my saws are on a base in my shop, a bit of a rabbit hole making bases, but needs to be done
Tom

 

[MikeJhn]

Lots of people buy a table saw with side sliding tables, assemble them and then take them apart again as they are too big, occasionally they may need to re-assemble them to cut down some sheet material, but most of the time in a small workshop as the OP has, the side table will not be in position and a track saw will be used instead.

Mike

 

[eribaMotters]

I have a Sartarite 175, 10" sawbench.
I have set the riving knife back and run it with 12" thin kirf blades.
It has a small footprint and is a nice robust saw with a near 4" cut.
For panel work I cannot handle 8x4 sheets on it by myself so clamp a straight edge onto the board and cut down with a small Makita cordless, re-trimming if needed [not very often] on the Startrite.
With the addition of an Elu/DeWalt radial arm saw I can cut most things repeatedly very accurately by myself.

Colin