Table saw advice

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MikeJhn":2gq9okmi said:
Pike

The fence rails are supposed to be fitting flush to the end of the table on the left according to the manual to allow the sliding table to pass and if present to line up with the end of the extension table with the long fence supports, but obviously can be positioned where you like or indeed where is most convenient for your work, but having the facility to position it in various positions does give it some flexibility for differing widths and side extensions.

Mike

Mike,

The only thing the manual says to do with the rail for the basic saw is to zero it. When you zero it the rail is not flush, it's further to the right. Although I can see in some of the manual pictures the rail is flush, that's not the case, atleast for the saw and rail I've been sent. I can see that it wouldn't work overhanging the left side if you use the slider though yeah. I'll probably not need to put the fence on the left anyway.

Cheers,
Carl.
 
Have you looked at the Axminster Hobby Series BTS10ST Table Saw - it only weighs 25Kg as it has an aluminium table - I have one, it stays up all the time and just pushes away - I replaced the blade with a finer Axminster blade - the fence flips over to support large sheet materials - worth a look in my opinion.
 
Carl

The longer fence rails for the extended table must be different, when I zero'd the rail to the fence against the blade the rail is flush with the end of the cast iron table, if I remember correctly there are also two zero positions, one for the main fence and another for when the sub fence is fitted.

Mike
 
Mike,

Yeah sounds like the long fence is different, and the basic fence is also different from the pictures in the manual. In a good way I think.

Carl.
 
Carl

Certainly the sub fence looks very different, the one in the manual has a box section on the back of it, but your pic above shows it without, I wonder if they have updated the sub fence and not changed the scale position on the rails?

Mike
 
Looking at some pics of my fence, the zero is approximely in line with the left hand edge of the left T track in the table?

Mike
 
Maybe it's just not clear in my photo. The sub fence is a sort of "b" shape. It does have what I think you call a box section, so you can attach it lying lower and flat.
 
MikeJhn":2noniws4 said:
Looking at some pics of my fence, the zero is approximely in line with the left hand edge of the left T track in the table?

Mike

That would depend on whether you are using the sub fence in its narrow or wide configuration I think. Mine's currently an inch or so to the right of the left t track, but if I put the sub fence on the other way, I'd have to move the rail if I wanted it zeroed.

Caveat: I've only used the saw once so far.

Anyway I doubt this is helping Colin buy a saw :)
 
Any information on the saw's Colin is considering must help in some way?

As to moving the rail, is that not what the second scale to the far left is for to zero the fence with the sub fence set for narrow stock i.e. laid flat? without the sub fence in place I think the rail will have to move left to zero in and then possibly will be in line with the T track?

Mike
 
I don't know but I don't think so Mike. I've no idea what that little extra bit of scale is for as it's in reverse. Maybe for if you put the fence that side, but it's only got about 8cm marked.
 
MikeJhn":3n69ophx said:
Any information on the saw's Colin is considering must help in some way?

As to moving the rail, is that not what the second scale to the far left is for to zero the fence with the sub fence set for narrow stock i.e. laid flat? without the sub fence in place I think the rail will have to move left to zero in and then possibly will be in line with the T track?

Mike
This is how it works with the mk1 fence. 1 scale for the fence in the flat position, one for the upright.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
 
The scale I have just starts again going in the other direction on the left, but only up to 9cm which seems a bit pointless unless I'm missing something. However, I'm not that bothered about it. How often would I need to have the sub fence horizontal I wonder.

I'm guessing they've done away with the two separate measurements for sub fence positions in order to have inches on..
 
I had a good look at the Dewalt that appeared at work today, it turned out to be the 745 not the 7491RS, even so it looked more than up to the job I would ask of it. The tilt mechanism if you can call it that was quite smooth and easy to adjust but maybe not as accurately as you can with a geared tilt. The table size looked ideal as is with no extensions needed. That said the Bosch on paper sounds to be a superior machine other than a couple of reports of motor failure but with a 3 year guarantee that should be covered. If I had the space I would get another AGS but I haven't so it looks like the Bosch may be my best option as good as the little Axminster tool looks.
 
The 745 is a nice little saw but very noisy. I couldn't be doing with that.

By the way, the main fence on the TS250M2 which you pointed out had a lot of "guide block" to the left of it. It seems to be on a t track so although the saw and measurements are mainly designed for right hand side, I think from looking at it that you could actually put the main fence all the way to the left on that guide block bit. Maybe even over the magnified scale bit. Hope that makes sense. You'd not be able to make much use of the scale though.

It's not something you'd want to be having to keep switching from left to right though, so if the DW745 seems to work for you great.
 
The Bosch GTS 10XS arrived yesterday but I have only unpacked it today. After watching youtube videos of peoples reviews the first thing I did was checked the alignment of everything and thankfully it's good to 0.1mm which is plenty good enough. I've not actually switched it on yet, I've had a planer, bandsaw and a bobbin sander delivered today so it's chaos here, just having a breather while the missus is out shopping
 
andersonec":34iseip3 said:
Bandsaw, will do what you want and a hundred more jobs, plus it takes up less than half the space.

Andy
It won't cut that vee joint I need to cut
 
andersonec":ja9mzuzc said:
Bandsaw, will do what you want and a hundred more jobs, plus it takes up less than half the space.

Andy
Mine takes up as much space as my tablesaw.

What's to say you can't have both...? I do.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
 
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