T48 blade for ripping?

[roombacurious]

I'm looking to get a new ripping blade for my table saw (254mm).
I've been looking around and came across this 48T Trend teflon-coated blade, advertised (by the seller) as ripping blade.

(see http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/C ... 30mm+.html)

48 teeth? :shock: I thought ripping blades were around 20-24 teeth. Is that blade in fact a combination one or can you indeed get ripping blades with so many teeth?
BTW, does anyone have experience with this type of blades?

Thanks,
George

 

[motownmartin]

I'll be interested to see the replies to this question.

Personally I use a 60T for ripping and cross-cutting.

The questions I asked myself were, how quickly do I want to Rip and how smooth do I want the finish, the answers were, I'm in no rush and I want to cut some thin pieces of wood that I can't run over the planer.
So I purchased a Freud and the results are excellent.

 

[jasonB]

I always put in a blade with less teeth when I have any ripping to do usually 20-24T. A proper rip blade will have bigger gullets for clearing the waste, anti kickback lobes and a flatter top bevel, my favorate rip blade actually has no top bevel, just flat topped teeth.

Trend used to have a chart that showed what each type of blade would cut like in various materials but I can't see it on the new site layout. Any of the craft pro range will be a compromise when compared to their Waveform or CMT, Freud etc.

Jason

 

[ByronBlack]

I used to use my festool 48tooth for ripping - became a real chore and often caused burning once the blade got a little blunt, I would get a dedicated rip blade of less than 24 teeth it's much more sensible to use a blade designed specifically and will be less stress on the saw. Freud do decent and affordable ripping blades. 24 teeth will still give a decent finish.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Martin

I am posting this so that we can clarify your post for the safety of anybody new to woodworking.

Personally I use a 60T for ripping and cross-cutting.

Unless you're using a combination 60T blade this, imho, is a very dangerous practice as you're using a blade without any anti-kickback features. I did Google and found a few 60T combination blades, but the most common in the UK are 50T.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[motownmartin]

Hi Martin

I am posting this so that we can clarify your post for the safety of anybody new to woodworking.

Personally I use a 60T for ripping and cross-cutting.

Unless you're using a combination 60T blade this, imho, is a very dangerous practice as you're using a blade without any anti-kickback features. I did Google and found a few 60T combination blades, but the most common in the UK are 50T.

Cheers,
Neil

Fair enough Neil, I hope that i've not made a big mistake, here is the blade, about halfway down the page, it's been ok so far

Originally it was advertised on screwfix as a Blade for cross-cutting and ripping, now it's not there maybe they made a mistake and pulled the plug.
What can I do if it's as dangerous as you say Neil, maybe complain to Screwfix and get a proper one :? :? :? :?

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Martin

I agree that there is not enough information there to ascertain exactly the suitability of the blade.

I would contact Freud via their web site or by telephone on 0870 770 4275.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[devonwoody]

I think the confusion arises because they are circular saw blades not tablesaw blades?

Am I correct in assuming a circular saw blade is not the same?

 

[devonwoody]

caqme across this surfing through Axminster.

3 blades for £34.94 might be OK for non continuous use?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0

 

[devonwoody]

I also contacted Dragon Saws and they also stock Trend/Freud/and Swedish top end tablesaw blades.

 

[ike]

A 48 T blade is a compromise. I don't find it's best for ripping - or crosscutting either. I find the only benefit is it saves having to change blades!

cheers,

ike

 

[motownmartin]

I think the confusion arises because they are circular saw blades not tablesaw blades?

Am I correct in assuming a circular saw blade is not the same?

You could be right John, I think in future i'll be changing the blade for serious ripping.

 

[motownmartin]

Hi Martin

I agree that there is not enough information there to ascertain exactly the suitability of the blade.

I would contact Freud via their web site or by telephone on 0870 770 4275.

Cheers,
Neil

Hi Neil,

I emailed screwfix saying that this blade may not be safe for Ripping, they replied and said

'Although this blade is rather fine, (60 Teeth) there is no reason why it can not be used for ripping and cross cutting. We change suppliers and products to suit the market, and as far as I am aware, there have been no safety issues with this product. As with all power tools the correct safety measures must be observed'.

I was quite happy with that but shall be extra cautious when using it.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I'm looking to get a new ripping blade for my table saw (254mm).
I've been looking around and came across this 48T Trend teflon-coated blade, advertised (by the seller) as ripping blade.

(see http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/C ... 30mm+.html)

48 teeth? :shock: I thought ripping blades were around 20-24 teeth. Is that blade in fact a combination one or can you indeed get ripping blades with so many teeth?
BTW, does anyone have experience with this type of blades?

Thanks,
George

You're in the wrong part of their catalogue and looking at the wrong tooth pattern. ATB (alternative top bevel) blades are really a cross cut pattern, but they're often used as general purpose blades. The gullet of the blade your link led me to is too small to carry away the stringier shavings ripping creates, and the tooth pattern is designed for a slicing action suited to cross cutting.

If it's ripping of solid wood you want to do, you need to look at blades in this section, http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productli ... lades.html

FT (flat top) grind tooth patterns are designed for ripping, and on a 250 mm diameter blade you should find about 20 to 24 teeth. The rip pattern tooth cuts with more of a scraping action for want of a better description, and creates long curly shavings, hence the need for a large gullet. Slainte.

 

[roombacurious]

Thanks for all your replies. I think I'll probably go for the Freud LM20 ripping blade after all - seems to be a proven solution judging by user experiences.

George

 

[martin.j.h]

Sgian, you are obviously very knowledgable about such matters, can you explain how the "anti-kickback" pattern design works. Are we talking about when a piece rides up over the blade and dissapears over your left shoulder, in which case the riving knife should prevent this, or when a piece is propelled more directly out parallel between the fence and the blade

 

[jasonB]

Because there is a large gap between each tooth there is a risk of the wood being drawn in to the blade too far, therefore there is a "bump" approx half way between each tooth to limit the anount each tooth can "bite" very much like using limiters on spindle tooling.

Richard can probably expand on it a bit further.

Jason

 

[Sgian Dubh]

there is a "bump" approx half way between each tooth to limit the anount each tooth can "bite"
Richard can probably expand on it a bit further. Jason

I don't need to Jason.

You've summed it up pretty well in a few words. The bite of each tooth is 'limited' by the 'bump' you describe.

On the other hand martin, the kind of kickback you asked about is more often than not caused by case hardened wood that pinches on the blade during the cut. The case hardening can show itself immediately, or some way through a cut. That's where the riving knife and crown guard (if it's the type attached to the riving knife) come in as you suggested. Slainte.

 

[pe2dave]

You're in the wrong part of their catalogue and looking at the wrong tooth pattern. ATB (alternative top bevel) blades are really a cross cut pattern, but they're often used as general purpose blades.

If it's ripping of solid wood you want to do, you need to look at blades in this section, http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productli ... lades.html

FT (flat top) grind tooth patterns are designed for ripping, and on a 250 mm diameter blade you should find about 20 to 24 teeth. The rip pattern tooth cuts with more of a scraping action for want of a better description, and creates long curly shavings, hence the need for a large gullet. Slainte.

Thanks for the tip.

I've been using 60tpi blade for ripping and x-cut.

Is the 50+ pounds a good price for the Trend blades (10")?
Sounds a heck of a lot.

 

[ByronBlack]

pe2dave - that sounds about right for trend blades, although I believe they do a 'craftsman' range which is cheaper. IMO Freud blades are really good value for money, I got a rip blade for my festool for £25 and it's very good, just throwing an alternative out there