T48 blade for ripping?

[Sgian Dubh]

I've been using 60tpi blade for ripping and x-cut.

Is the 50+ pounds a good price for the Trend blades (10")?
Sounds a heck of a lot.

Trend do supply a good product and their prices in my opinion are fair, particularly if you're running a blade hard and for long periods. On the other hand Freud also make good saw blades, router cutters, etc. Like Byron I've found Freud blades perfectly acceptable, so if that's within your budget I'd spring the cash for one of them.

Definitely your 60 tooth blade isn't suitable for ripping. I'd hazard a guess it's probably an ATB blade, maybe even a high alternative top bevel (HATB) designed for fine cross cutting, quite possibly even for cutting melamine faced board materials and the like.

If you can live with a compromise you could go for a general purpose blade, and on a 10" diameter blade it will probably have between 34 to 46 teeth with a fairly low angle ATB pattern tooth, perhaps 3º- 5º. It won't rip as well as a dedicated rip blade and won't cross cut as effectively as a true cross cut blade, but it'll do a bit of both reasonably well. Slainte.

 

[pe2dave]

Definitely your 60 tooth blade isn't suitable for ripping. I'd hazard a guess it's probably an ATB blade, maybe even a high alternative top bevel (HATB) designed for fine cross cutting, quite possibly even for cutting melamine faced board materials and the like.

If you can live with a compromise you could go for a general purpose blade, and on a 10" diameter blade it will probably have between 34 to 46 teeth with a fairly low angle ATB pattern tooth, perhaps 3º- 5º. It won't rip as well as a dedicated rip blade and won't cross cut as effectively as a true cross cut blade, but it'll do a bit of both reasonably well. Slainte.

It's a Trend blade. Must admit the one I got with the table saw, I've never used.
My main use to date has been for ply... sort of neither ripping nor x-cut!

Excuse the ignorance.. but ATB pattern tooth? Is that to do with the offset
or the 'pointing towards one side'?


I bought it primarily to get a smoother finish. What's the source of the accident then? Presumably kickback? I don't understand how it is more likely on 60tpi than on 35tpi?

regards

 

[pe2dave]

I said,
Excuse the ignorance.. but ATB pattern tooth?

Then noted that you'd defined 'High alternative top bevel' so I'll guess
that the offset from horizontal is the 3-5 degrees you mentioned.

That's getting a bit fine isn't it. I'm trying to imagine someone testing these things,
Hey lets try another degree on that! What on earth do they look for!

regards

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I said,
Excuse the ignorance.. but ATB pattern tooth?

That's getting a bit fine isn't it. I'm trying to imagine someone testing these things,
Hey lets try another degree on that! What on earth do they look for! regards

Saws, saw tooth geometry, rake, fleam, TPI, hook angle, rake, anti-kickback devices, etc, is a very involved engineering subject. Not just any old tooth or number of teeth per inch will do for any old wood hacking job. There's a lot of high level engineering goes into creating saw blades, router bits, spindle moulder cutters, etc.

It looks like you could use a basic primer on circular saw blades and tooth patterns. Over and above the topic of this thread bandsaw tooth patterns and hand saw tooth patterns have their own distinctive geometry and technical know-how.

Here's a primer for circular saws to get you going, http://www.toolnewz.com/Tips_Techniques/BladeTypes.html I warn you that once you start studying the subject of saw tooth geometry and saw blade construction you could be at it for months just getting your head around the essentials. Slainte.