studio monitors/speakers project

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slemishwoodcrafts

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Hi guys,

been quite a while since ive posted here!

i was looking to try and build a set of monitors for my sort of studio set up in my new flat. I am slowly moving into music production and was looking to get a decent set of monitors but they do cost a fair bit so was looking for something to bridge the gap in the mean time.

basically my question is has anybody attempted/done this before or do they know of anyone plans to do it?

thanks

michael
 
Much depends on the sort of music you're recording. You mention a flat and my heart sinks a bit - hard for you to work in and hard on the neighbours too!

Bass is the tricky bit really:you have to move a large volume of air by quite a large displacement (4" dust extractor?). Seriously, anything below 80Hz takes you well out of the range of 'bookshelf' designs, into floor-standing or stand-mounted enclosures. You *don't* need high power handling - 100-200W/channel is quite sufficient for things to get ear-damagingly loud.

Personally, I'd look at getting a pair of something decent-but-broken from eBay and repair it. Drive units cost the same whether they're going into new cabinets or old ones, but refurbishing something means the basic stuff is right. You might also consider an active crossover (i.e. before the power amps, not in the speaker itself). They're easier to tinker with afterwards, and cheaper to make (probably).

There are some classic designs around - the Yamaha NS10s*, BBC LS3/5As and LS5/8s (if you have the space and the wallet). I had a pair of Monitor Audio MA7s for years, which were good at the really cheap end. They've gone somewhat up-market recently though.

You want something that shows you accurately what the audio is, and doesn't flatter it. Many "HiFi" designs are nothing of the sort - they flatter the sound, and don't have enough detail to tell you what's going on. I spent years using 3/5As professionally, and still have a pair as my "PC" monitors for rough mixes. Above 120Hz they're wonderful speakers, but below that they're wholly untrustworthy. Amongst the classical engineers I worked with there was an unoffical rule:if on location with 3/5As, don't ever touch the bass! The result otherwise was a rescue job later on!

As you get into the range of about 100Hz downwards, the room itself will have a big effect. If you look at photos of BBC general purpose studios, you'll often see the monitors arranged very close to the mixer's position. It looks odd, as it's definitely not how home HiFi is usually set up. It's partly for space reasons, but also so that the direct sound from the speakers overwhelms the sound bounced round the room. The thing you often can't see is that the speakers may be upside down. This is so that the tweeters are at ear level, rather than above the mixer's head! This is/was very common in trucks too, and there were at least two designs of BBC monitoring speakers designed to be upside down, and non-rectangular, to hang from the ceiling in smaller spaces (one version of the LS5/1 and a rare, wholly asymmetric and 'handed' variant of the LS5/8).

One trick:for 'nearfield' monitoring, to get a good, stable stereo image, arrange the speakers so that the tweeters are at ear level, and their axes cross in front of your nose (by about 6", more if they're further away). You'll be surprised how much better this is than the standard advice of your head and the speakers being corners of an equilateral triangle. The reason is that as you move side to side, the speaker you get nearer to goes more off-axis, and the one you're further from you line up with. This slightly compensates for the level difference, and the result is significantly better stereo.

Test your setup with a single, well-recorded male voice, just speaking. Poetry or a reading from a book is good, and at a volume only a bit higher than real life. It helps too if you know the person concerned's voice, but it's not essential. If that sounds natural, so will other things you record, rock and classical and speech.

On the other hand, if you mainly record modern clubbing 'music' all bets are off - you need therapy rather than monitor speakers :)

Hope that's entertaining, even if it's not useful!

E.

*I don't like NS10s - too 'nasal' for me. They improved the drive units half way through production, which helped a bit, but the traditional fix was to stick loo paper to the case so that a sheet dangled down in front of the tweeter. I don't think it helped much but at least you could draw faces on it! Anyway the problem was nearer the crossover, and the loo paper didn't help that.
 
Hi Michael
I happen to produce the modern 'clubbing' music that Eric refers to and I have done a bit of research lately as I've been looking for a set of monitors with a small footprint at reasonable money, as I'm working on a temporary desk and don't have room for my rokit 8's.
The best that I can find are either the M-Audio BX5A / BX5AD2's or the Yamaha MSP3 or MSP5. All 3 sets are powered so no need for an external amp, just hook them straight up to your sound card. They can all be picked up on ebay 2nd hand fairly cheaply.
I know that's nothing to do with building your own speakers but hope it's of some help!
 
The problem with self build is that it would be very hard to test the output with just your ears, they may sound great to you but someone else playing the same track though 'calibrated' speaker may hear something completely different. I like the suggestion of repairing a set of quality speakers, but you may not even need to do that, I've seen some bargains on ebay and there is probably not a lot that could be wrong a set of speakers that wouldn't be extremely obvious by listening to them, just restrict you ebay search to local so you hear before you buy.
 
My son was unfortunately laid-up for a long time recovering from an operation and during this time he started acquiring a sound system. The various amps etc. were bought but his loving father was commissioned to make speakers. When the project started there was no mention of sound system, just a couple of speakers... but then it grew, and grew and there were racks too. And the designs got more sophisticated, and when he started using it the needs changed and then I ended up adding wheels and building a sort of bridge to run from our hall to the back of his van.

The 4 cabinets for the bass drives were big enough for my grandson to climb in. He turned each one up to max for a couple of seconds when he came to sell them and the neighbours must have thought the end of the world had come, I was just worried about our windows. The end result was excellent and he got a lot of compliments on the system from the venues. I was too old to go but he sold part of the system to the school his nephews go to and I am impressed by the sound quality when I go to their events.

Starting to build speakers is a slippery slope!!!

I hope the following is helpful, excuse me if it all seems a bit obvious, but it took me a little while to get the procedure sorted.

I don't have a saw bench so built a jig to enable perfectly square cuts with a circular saw to be made easily when I realised this was not a one-off commission.

Use good quality 18mm ply not MDF unless you don't mind the dust.

Get a hole-cutting router jig.

Don't cut rebates for the back, just fix battens inside.

Biscuit joint the box

Make the joints with 1 or 2mm projection and then tidy up with a trimming bit and roundover bit.

Plan your handles, grilles etc.

Finish with black paint applied with a disposable sponge roller.

Good luck
 
They look nice.

What's the slope on a 4th order Xover? IIRC, 12dB/octave remains in phase across the transition, but anything steeper? Did he squeak them once finished?

There's also the famous 3/5A felt pads: If you introduce a recess for a grille you get nasty resonances...

... minefield, what... :duno: ("boom!")

S.
 
I spent the first 10 years of my working life in the design lab of a well known HiFi loudspeaker manufacturer here in Bradford. I cannot disagree with anything said above, Eric, in particular has made some very useful points from a critical users point of view. In your position I too would go with a tried and tested design either as a diy project from scratch, or as a used model.
However some points which may save some dissapointment:-
The tuning of crossovers, after the design stage, can be greatly affected by the relative position of drive units. If you are using an existing design then stick with the designed unit layout. If stereo imagery is important to you, then in making the front panels go for a mirror image pair, preferably as a vertical straight line, with due regard to the note above. In conventional 3-way systems with a large Bass unit, smaller Mid-range and small Tweeter there may be audible effects, at low level, where the bass tails off and the tweeter starts up. This is particularly evident with low roll-off filtering and can be avoided by using a larger Mid-range unit. A good compromise is a 2-way system with added Bass unit rolled-off individually. If you are designing your own passive crossover you will find it audibly easier if sticking to low roll-off/roll-up rates. Going back to stereo imagery, this can be improved with stepped cabinet design, but that is a whole different ball game.
I hope some of this proves useful, above all have fun
xy.
 
I forgot to add. The evaluation of loudspeakers by ear is fraught with pitfalls as outlined above. However there are sounds which make the task easier, I think it was Eric who mentioned male speech, I once upset a friend when his expensive 'monitor' speakers added sibilance to Richard Burton reading Dylan Thomas. Another sound which makes the task somewhat more analytical is Pink noise, a sample can be heard or downloaded here.

http://archive.org/details/TenMinutesOf ... wnianNoise

Listen to the noise, if it sounds rough and spikey then that is a representation of the frequency response of your speaker. If there sounds to be too much hiss then this shows too much treble. Similarly with other frequencies, or lack thereof. It is interesting to compare different loudspeakers using this method. Personally I like a smooth response with no apparent additions or missing bands of frequencies.

xy
 
thanks for all the replies guys, been most helpful. I think just now I will leave it given my current living situations. Maybe one day when I can get a dedicated studio space it'll be a nice project. In the meantime I have got myself a pair of beyerdynamic dt770s to use. :)
 
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