Straight edger

[Mo27]

I have over 2,000 old used oak fencing pales 1m x 60mm x 20mm. I have been putting them through my Makita 2012NB planer and gluing them up into boards for table tops etc. I need to straighten the edges on quite a few of them as they are bowed.

I have tried doing it on a table saw using a jig, but they are too narrow to clamp safely. I can do it using a Bosch hand plane, but it is too time-consuming.

Bearing in mind, I now have limited room in my workshop, what is the best machine for the job?

Can anyone help please?

 

[kostello]

Track saw?


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[MusicMan]

A one-sided table saw sled with clamps for the work should work fine. Google 'four handy tablesaw jigs' to see plans from Popular Woodworking; the fourth one should meet your needs. Clamping is down onto the base of the sled, and 60 mm width is more than enough.

Best of all, you don't need a new machine!

Keith

 

[loftyhermes]

Have a look at this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrYjc3G1vgo

 

[Mo27]

Thanks for your help, but that's the exact jig I tried, but not as easy as it looks to use and at 60mm too close to the blade for my peace of my mind.

Part of my problem may be down to the fence on my table saw not being solid enough, but I'm wondering if a decent bandsaw might be a better option. Can anyone recommend one that would be up to the job for volume work?

 

[Myfordman]

Improve the saw fence and not only do this job better but all subsequent jobs should be improved too.

 

[MusicMan]

That jig should not use the fence. It runs in a guide sliding in the mitre groove.
Maybe you don't have a mitre slot?

If you have to use the fence, the cut would be on the side of the jig away from the fence, so again your fingers will be well out of the way?

But +1 for fixing the fence.

Keith

 

[lurker]

A track saw is better for one or two but if you are planning lots, IMHO a TS is the right tool to do this.
As others have said sort the fence.

You are right to want your digits as far away from the blade as possible. Maybe you can rig a tunnel or add a vertical strip to that jig.
To be honest I think I have seen better jigs to do the same thing but can't think where.

 

[JSW]

Clamp a 6' length of contiboard/furniture panel from Wickes/B&Q/Wherever parallel to the blade (Note: Use dial indicator/vernier or whatever off a straight edge between the blade teeth, but must be parallel)
Run cupped side of Oak against temp fence, should work just fine.

 

[lurker]

Clamp a 6' length of contiboard/furniture panel from Wickes/B&Q/Wherever parallel to the blade (Note: Use dial indicator/vernier or whatever off a straight edge between the blade teeth, but must be parallel)
Run cupped side of Oak against temp fence, should work just fine.

I think that's what I would do too
Assume you already have some good push sticks maybe like this
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw ... push-stick

 

[JSW]

Yep, that plus a traditional push stick just to hold the 'nose' down.

 

[blackrodd]

I don't have a tracksaw, but as it was designed for sheet material, It won't be much good on 60mm wide timber soon to be 50mm wide.
This really is why we have either the Jointer or a overhand planer, they are designed for this very job.
In the absence of a Jointer/planer, So To use the saw bench, and you needing some way of straightening these oak strips
Safely, I found this link below, when looking at Music mans suggestion,and found this version.
Although similar you're fingers are much safer in the second jig, I believe
Use it either in the mitre slot, or off the fence, You can see the potential for you;re needs,
I suggest sort a load out that have a 10mm bow, set a fence with a screw driver and clamp each piece in position, and Then a load needing 15mm off etc, and away you go as they say!
Make sure you get the guard as low as possible, the work repetition can catch the unwary out!
HTH Regards Rodders


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=four+ ... wYuGzPE%3D

 

[MusicMan]

Yes, this link from Rodders looks a better design.

Keith

 

[Mo27]

Thanks for all your comments. I realise now that a ts is overkill to remove a few mm of crook and too much of a faff to adjust clamps for every board. I decided that what I really needed was the jointer part of a planer/jointer which in essence is a router table - just like the one I already own. Cue a Steve Ramsey video that shows you how to fettle your router table for jointing with a bit of hardboard. Sorted!

 

[MusicMan]

Yes this is a workable method on a router. I use it regularly, but in my experience it would be much slower than a table saw. Including making the jig and doing up the toggles. But it depends on the quality of the tablesaw of course.

If it is only a few mm and you are going to edge joint the boards anyway, you could also consider a long grain shooting board,

Keith

 

[chippy1970]

I don't have a tracksaw, but as it was designed for sheet material, It won't be much good on 60mm wide timber soon to be 50mm wide.

You can easily trim stuff that size with a railsaw. You just need to knock up a quick jig to hold the material and support the rail.

I know you haven't got one but just letting you know it is possible I've done it loads of times.

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