storage shelfs (mdf??)

[Greek Enigma]

if in wrong section (im sorry)

Hi im completely retarded when it comes to woodwork

basically my mum lives in a mobile home and we cant seem to find a correct size unit to go in the corner so im going to make one instead :shock:

(DOESN'T NEED TO BE FANCY) just to hold her records etc so needs to be deep.

like this but with more depth & alot widerhttp://www.argos.co.uk/webapp/wcs/s...ne Shop for Entertainment cabinets and units.

WILL MDF BE OK???????????

ok basically bought some mdf and thought ide just cut it up with a jigsaw
and screw it together then just use white paint all over it

than google shocked me !!!

i noticed something saying mdf is now band in America as its dangerous and always lets of fumes from the glue used to hold all the dust together
(im guessing mdf is wood dust and glue DANGEROUS GLUE)

is this true?

or is it ok

p.s if ok

will mdf be the correct material for the job? or have i picked the wrong stuff for a quick cheap way for this

 

[Greek Enigma]

also if mdf is correct one to use (i dnt know about wood mdf chipboard etc)

then should i just cut/drill countersink then sand countersink etc then just use any white paint???

thanks all (homer) (homer)

whys homer in the smiles???

but love homer so
(homer) (homer) (homer) (homer) (homer) (homer) (homer)

 

[Dibs-h]

I think MDF would be fine for the job you have in mind. With something like MDF - good extraction. Or facemask and cut outside. Can't say I've heard anything about it being banned tho.

HIH

DIbs

p.s. You could use biscuits to assemble and for the shelves - but would need some mechanism to clamp. MDF will need pilot drilling - otherwise you'll split it. Paint - can't say, as I haven't use it for ages.

 

[Greek Enigma]

I think MDF would be fine for the job you have in mind. With something like MDF - good extraction. Or facemask and cut outside. Can't say I've heard anything about it being banned tho.

HIH

DIbs

p.s. You could use biscuits to assemble and for the shelves - but would need some mechanism to clamp. MDF will need pilot drilling - otherwise you'll split it. Paint - can't say, as I haven't use it for ages.

hi mate

yeah i allways pilot drill

i am a newbie in wood but jave used wood once before

garage unit i built (its on here)

but thanks ok ill just go ahead and hope it hold up

im just going to put it together argos unit style lol (screws from side)

aka non adjustable as just wont it done

thanks

will do this tomorrow and say how it went (or post pic lol) of my beautiful mdf build lmfao

nah looks arnt important like i said

thanks for the quick response

 

[chunkolini]

Bear in mind records are hellaciously heavy, and a sagging shelf is a truly tragic sight.
If you plan for this you should be fine.
I picked up this link from this a while back, the Sagulator, tells you how a shelf will be before sagging, you enter the load length and material.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
Chunko'.

 

[barkwindjammer]

If you put vertical dividers into the box, and its on a good base then it should be fine, and if its for your Mum-take your time and do a nice job,

these things are great for the DIYer, and cheap

http://www.screwfix.com/p/white-assembl ... f-10/25399

 

[Harbo]

My LP collection is housed in a series of cube boxes - just slightly larger than the size of the record sleeves. They can be placed side by side and stacked on top of each other.
No sagging at all.

Rod

 

[Chip shop]

It might be worth fixing a supporting batten underneath the back of each shelf (better screw holding). White pine from you're local builder's merchant or B&Q would do the trick.

Remember to give the whole thing a coat of primer before getting at it with the gloss.

 

[Greek Enigma]

Hi everyone OMG I FORGOT ABOUT THE POST AND JUST BUILD IT

anyway here it is but i need help




well i know nothing about wood work so just doing everything my way

ok i just did measures etc

drilled pilot holes

drilled countersinks

and put together

NOW ..... shall i fill holes with wood filler and sand then paint with any white paint

or do i need to seal mdf (or do something special with mdf)

before i can paint whatever white paint i got in the shed lol

remember this dos not need to be perfect at all

thankyou all you helpful bunch 8)

 

[Greek Enigma]

anyone?

 

[Ateallthepies]

I always now use a 2-pack wood filler for MDF. I have in the past used other fillers like tetrion and had screw holes 'pop' the surface.

You can use any paint, oil or water based. Just knock the first coat with the appropriate thinners. This is so the first layer of paint can soak into the surface and key better. You will need at least four coats for a nice finish.

I use a water based acrylic primer for MDF for the first two coats then an oil based undercoat and then either a gloss, satinwood or eggshell oil based finish coat using a 4" foam roller while cutting in the corners with a brush. You can achieve an almost sprayed finish with practice with this method.

HTH,

Steve.

 

[Greek Enigma]

I always now use a 2-pack wood filler for MDF. I have in the past used other fillers like tetrion and had screw holes 'pop' the surface.

You can use any paint, oil or water based. Just knock the first coat with the appropriate thinners. This is so the first layer of paint can soak into the surface and key better. You will need at least four coats for a nice finish.

I use a water based acrylic primer for MDF for the first two coats then an oil based undercoat and then either a gloss, satinwood or eggshell oil based finish coat using a 4" foam roller while cutting in the corners with a brush. You can achieve an almost sprayed finish with practice with this method.

HTH,

Steve.

omg im iffy to do this method

i was just wanting to quickly paint it (as its nothing special)

couldnt i use some kind of sealer then 2 coats of any paint?

or is that a nono?

as i really dnt want to do your method if i dnt need to

although i know your method will be great i just want to use what i have if possable

 

[Ateallthepies]

Yes use whatever you have.

If you have some emulsion just knock the first coat with some water. About 10-20% water to paint is fine. Then just keep adding full coats until you are happy.

If you have oil based paint use that. If you have undercoat use that first then whatever top coat you have.

Try to sand in between coats with something like 120 grit or higher to get a smoother finish.

It is best to have the final coats a wipe-able finish like gloss, satinwood or eggshell. Emulsion and undercoat will pick up dust and grime over time and look bad and won't be able to be removed unless re-painted.


Steve.

 

[Greek Enigma]

Yes use whatever you have.

If you have some emulsion just knock the first coat with some water. About 10-20% water to paint is fine. Then just keep adding full coats until you are happy.

If you have oil based paint use that. If you have undercoat use that first then whatever top coat you have.

Try to sand in between coats with something like 120 grit or higher to get a smoother finish.

It is best to have the final coats a wipe-able finish like gloss, satinwood or eggshell. Emulsion and undercoat will pick up dust and grime over time and look bad and won't be able to be removed unless re-painted.


Steve.

nice one

well bussy till saturday

so ill do it then

thanks for everything steve

 

[Greek Enigma]

Ok here goes

Have quiet alot of different paints in the shed

whats the best white paint i should use???

like say 1st if you have this if not this 2nd or this 3rd etc

ps im a lil lost about watering down the paint??? (wouldnt that rot the mdf)

also i heard mdf must be sealed before anypainting as its like a spunge??

sorry to keep asking about it im just making sure

thankyou

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

No the paint will mix with the water and help fight that sponge like effect, it will in no way "rot" the material. To rot wood you need a continuing source of damp, the paint with water will dry far to quickly for anything to rot. If you don't water the paint down you will end up putting 2-3 coats on and still see the MDF colour showing through.

For the watering down matt emulation is best. If you read back you will be able to form a list of which paint types are better.

If you don't have them types then list what types you do have and I or someone will advice you further.

 

[Greek Enigma]

No the paint will mix with the water and help fight that sponge like effect, it will in no way "rot" the material. To rot wood you need a continuing source of damp, the paint with water will dry far to quickly for anything to rot. If you don't water the paint down you will end up putting 2-3 coats on and still see the MDF colour showing through.

For the watering down matt emulation is best. If you read back you will be able to form a list of which paint types are better.

If you don't have them types then list what types you do have and I or someone will advice you further.

so steve that has been helping me was spot on then?

he mentioned emulsion and oil based

i was just curious which was best incase i have both in the shed

thanks again to you

and steve

i totally get the watering down now

thankyou

so no sealing needed if i do that then?

thanks all for your help im very greatful

as when i go to do it i an look back at what you all have wrote

again claps hands to both of you for being very helpful

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

No the watering down will effectively seal the MDF. As your only putting "whats in the shed" on I wouldn't worry and would just get on with it. If you wanted to do it "properly/professionally" you're more then likely going to have to buy new products. However many professionals, myself included use the watered down emulsion as a way to "seal" MDF first. Many say its a far better method then products designed to prime MDF. Another popular way is to water down some PVA glue and apply first.

There are pros and cons of using both oil and water based. It only becomes a matter of which is best when you consider application and user. In your case I would use water as it drys faster and there are less vapours. Oil would have been better if painted before installed. Oil don't retain its colour as well as water based but water based don't soak in as well.

I also have never heard of any baning of MDF, the dust is toxic due to the glue and you should protect yourself. However if it was that bad it wouldn't be available in DIY sheds or the alike.

 

[Greek Enigma]

No the watering down will effectively seal the MDF. As your only putting "whats in the shed" on I wouldn't worry and would just get on with it. If you wanted to do it "properly/professionally" you're more then likely going to have to buy new products. However many professionals, myself included use the watered down emulsion as a way to "seal" MDF first. Many say its a far better method then products designed to prime MDF. Another popular way is to water down some PVA glue and apply first.

There are pros and cons of using both oil and water based. It only becomes a matter of which is best when you consider application and user. In your case I would use water as it drys faster and there are less vapours. Oil would have been better if painted before installed. Oil don't retain its colour as well as water based but water based don't soak in as well.

I also have never heard of any baning of MDF, the dust is toxic due to the glue and you should protect yourself. However if it was that bad it wouldn't be available in DIY sheds or the alike.

thanks so much for the knowledge you have on wood

p.s its not for the shed its for records etc

pics are a page back

also i just wrote a funny story

go check it out in forum

 

[DOOGYREV]

1st Coat use Primer (or emulsion if you only have that)
Rub it down
2nd Coat use Undercoat (if you don't have it, you can use Satinwood or Eggshell)
Rub it down if needed
3rd Coat use Satinwood, Eggshell or Gloss (whatever you have)

don't worry about the mdf rotting if you add water, as all the water will have evaporated before you apply the second coat.
The first coat you apply will do the all the sealing you need.