Stanley No80 scraper plane blade.

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toolsntat":2qn334xx said:
Jb99":2qn334xx said:
I bought a Faithfull replacement and the edge crumbled when I tried to burnish the edge to form the burr. Maybe it was a bad one (too hard and brittle) but either way it's not usable.

Was that with a square edge or a ground angle.
A square edge may give less chance of deterioration.
All scrapers and 80/080 I use have a square edge and burred on 4 edges, 2 top and 2 bottom.
Cheers Andy
It came with a 30 degree bevel. It is hardened at the bevelled edge and that's why it was breaking up. It appears to be a plane iron that's been shortened.
 
For those insistent that the blade is thicker than a scraper:

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1.05/ 1.1mm thick, and it's a Stanley original blade as you can see.

Now some of you might have thinner card scrapers, sure. I don't. This is precisely the thickness of my scrapers (except a curved one, which is a bit thinner).
 
Might the confusion over blade thickness be between Stanley and Record? My Record no 80 has a thick blade, around 2mm, ground to around 30 degrees top and bottom. Here is the blade (marked Record) next to a standard card scraper, about twice as thick.

Record scraper plane blade.jpeg
 

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I also use a piece of saw plate in mine, but if a good quality $10 or $20 replacement was available, I'd just use the replacement. I have no idea what a decent replacement actually costs.

The issue for most casual users with saw plate is that you need to find good quality saw plate, and most saw plate has a relatively coarse surface finish (you cannot use a pitted saw blade) and you'll need to hone through some or all of it to prepare the saw plate for scraper use.

I don't use one of these types of scrapers as often as others might on here because there's little or no advantage and a lot of disadvantages vs. a double iron plane set properly. But until one masters something like that, they're definitely better at using a dull blade (due to the projection) than anything else.

The later stock blades are extremely soft (which is why my #80 has a piece of saw plate in it) - I don't know what they're good for other than maybe scraping filthy abrasive wood (they can be rehoned more easily on site,??? who knows).

Saw plate varies very widely, too, from .025 (from the top of a taper crosscut saw) to something closer to .042-.045, which is near stock stanley setting. Hardness of vintage saw plates is generally pretty consistent from the "golden era" (late 1800s through about 1935).
 
profchris":klngmnub said:
Might the confusion over blade thickness be between Stanley and Record? My Record no 80 has a thick blade, around 2mm, ground to around 30 degrees top and bottom. Here is the blade (marked Record) next to a standard card scraper, about twice as thick.

You might be on to something there.
 
D_W":1xgm0932 said:
.......I don't use one of these types of scrapers as often as others might on here because there's little or no advantage and a lot of disadvantages vs. a double iron plane set properly........

They're one of the reasons why this obsession with cap irons is just a trivial aside. They obviate the necessity for faffing with a plane, producing virtually infallible results every time even in the trickiest wood. It's absolutely nothing to do with "filthy abrasive wood" (surely you've heard of scrub planes), and everything to do with a final finish on difficult wood, or wood which has been sanded.
 
MikeG.":2f3289jz said:
powertools":2f3289jz said:
As jb99 says the blade for the stanley 80 is thicker than a card scraper........

I'm sorry, but you're just flat out wrong. The Stanley 80 blade is 1.05mm thick, which is precisely the same as my straight card scrapers, and the same as the saw plates I've got set aside for making more scrapers.


I fail to see I am wrong.
As I said I have a set of card scrapers and all are to thin to clamp into the no80 I was talking about my card scrapers and not yours.
As an update I phoned Chronos this morning and even though the Veritas spare blade is listed on their website they don't have any stock, I also phoned Axminster and they are expecting new stock in early March so I will just put it away again until then.
For those who have said I could make one I am aware of that but don't see any point in trying to find a piece of metal of unknown hardness and attack it with the angle grinder in the hope of making something usable.
 
MikeG.":1fygad33 said:
I reckon it wouldn't be much trouble to cut one out of an old saw plate.
I made a new blade from an old card scraper and it works a treat. The problem with the original blade is that it's too short, which means that it's very difficult to insert into a honing guide to obtain the requisite 45 deg angle. With my one, I grind it at about 35 deg on the Tormek and then hone it at 45deg in the Veritas honing guide and I do the same thing with the cutter in my LN scraper plane - Rob
 
powertools":2ecdurzr said:
As jb99 says the blade for the stanley 80 is thicker than a card scraper.
I have a set of Veritas card scrapers but they are all to thin.
If a card scraper, or any other piece of steel being pressed into service, is too thin you can pack it out with a piece of card. A bit of cereal box might be ideal.

Jb99":2ecdurzr said:
I bought a Faithfull replacement and the edge crumbled when I tried to burnish the edge to form the burr. Maybe it was a bad one (too hard and brittle) but either way it's not usable.
It's possible that you need to remove a bit of steel from the edge to get back to better steel, the edge having been decarburised during heat treating. This is a known issue with some chisels, including a number from Narex.

Another poss fix (which I would obviously suggest you try first) is to just use a steeper bevel angle. The 45° grind is just a convention, don't consider it something set in stone.
 
Just to update this thread I finally got round to ordering a Veritas replacement blade for their version of the Stanley no80 and it is a perfect fit , it is 1.1mm thick and is sharpened on 2 sides.
I found my Stanley no80 in a box of old tools without a blade and I just felt it would be nice to get it back into use. with the new blade it works a treat and is now a very usable tool.
 
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