Stanley 98/99 Sharpening
- Thread starter DigitalM
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Orraloon
Established Member
It depends on what sharpening system you have. There are some wide honing jigs that allow for skewed blades or build one. I just free hand on a stone. If the primary bevel is in need of serious attention then a go on the wet grinder before the stone. There are also plenty of youtube clips showing all kinds of ways.
Regards
John
Regards
John
Honing carefully by hand? It's little different to doing a skew chisel, which isn't much of a step up in difficulty from doing a normal chisel 
Work the back to flatten near the edge if it needs it, then just raise the faintest hint of a burr by working the bevel, remove it and you're done. 20-30 seconds if the back is in good shape.
Work the back to flatten near the edge if it needs it, then just raise the faintest hint of a burr by working the bevel, remove it and you're done. 20-30 seconds if the back is in good shape.
DigitalM
Established Member
Seems straight forward enough. Precious little info online about it. Thanks info. Sometimes seemingly simple jobs have critical elements you've not considered, so thought it best to check before I just dive in with the obvious!
custard
Established Member
Start by identifying if the skew angle on the iron needs adjusting at all in order to be in line with the sole of the plane. There's every chance it will. The other common problem with these tools is the corner of the iron gets dubbed over which then needs quite a bit of work to remove the dubbing.
They are a bit tricky to correctly sharpen, I find you get it all set up right but after three or four honings it needs some remedial work to get things back to where they should be. The iron is a bit too narrow to easily apply selective pressure on one side of the iron, but you get the same result by applying a little bit of twist to your grip or you can hold the iron with one hand and use a pencil with an eraser tip to apply selective pressure.
Good luck!
They are a bit tricky to correctly sharpen, I find you get it all set up right but after three or four honings it needs some remedial work to get things back to where they should be. The iron is a bit too narrow to easily apply selective pressure on one side of the iron, but you get the same result by applying a little bit of twist to your grip or you can hold the iron with one hand and use a pencil with an eraser tip to apply selective pressure.
Good luck!
I don't have an identical plane, but one thing I think will apply is this. In use, the acute angled point needs to have a little flat at its tip, equal to the thickness of the"sole" of the plane - probably less than a millimetre. If you remove a significant amount of metal, you'll end up with a sharp point on the corner of the iron and it will mess up the bottom of any groove where you want to plane the sides. So take off that point, making sure the iron reaches a tiny bit below the sole, and doesn't stop short of it.
Woody2Shoes
Impressive Member
I think that the instructions for the Veritas Side Rabbet plane are probably helpful - esp. page 2 which describes the adjustment/flattening of the blade tip mentioned above.
Cheers, W2S
PDF format instructions linked from here:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.a ... 48945&ap=2
Cheers, W2S
PDF format instructions linked from here:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.a ... 48945&ap=2
bugbear
Established Member
The skew angle for this tool is critical, and since the bed angle is so low, varies from tool to tool. There is no lateral adjust.
This is (in practice) readily handled by looking at the shaving - if the shaving is not uniform, the blade must be projecting more on one side than the other; when honing lean on this side more. As a consequence, any honing guide which holds the side-to-side position with absolute rigidity cannot be used. Fortunately, I don't really know of such a guide!
If you wish to sharpen this blade in the ever handy Eclipse #36, you'll need to make a blade holder to compensate for the skew angle.
(and my image of same is on photobucket :-( )
Other than controlling/adjusting the skew angle, these can be sharpened in the same way as other straight edged blades.
BugBear
This is (in practice) readily handled by looking at the shaving - if the shaving is not uniform, the blade must be projecting more on one side than the other; when honing lean on this side more. As a consequence, any honing guide which holds the side-to-side position with absolute rigidity cannot be used. Fortunately, I don't really know of such a guide!
If you wish to sharpen this blade in the ever handy Eclipse #36, you'll need to make a blade holder to compensate for the skew angle.
(and my image of same is on photobucket :-( )
Other than controlling/adjusting the skew angle, these can be sharpened in the same way as other straight edged blades.
BugBear
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Now then, this is a stab in the dark as these planes have eluded me
Using some decent card and double sided tape cover the flat face of both planes.
Cut away where mouths are.
Take the blades, turn them over and put them in the opposite plane.
Clamp with small projection and apply card face to a sharpening medium.
This method is my Patent and if it works I have protected rights on the supply of appropriate shaped card and tape.... :idea: 8) :wink:
Cheers
Andy
Using some decent card and double sided tape cover the flat face of both planes.
Cut away where mouths are.
Take the blades, turn them over and put them in the opposite plane.
Clamp with small projection and apply card face to a sharpening medium.
This method is my Patent and if it works I have protected rights on the supply of appropriate shaped card and tape.... :idea: 8) :wink:
Cheers
Andy
DigitalM
Established Member
toolsntat":1kpj1lzw said:Now then, this is a stab in the dark as these planes have eluded me
Using some decent card and double sided tape cover the flat face of both planes.
Cut away where mouths are.
Take the blades, turn them over and put them in the opposite plane.
Clamp with small projection and apply card face to a sharpening medium.
This method is my Patent and if it works I have protected rights on the supply of appropriate shaped card and tape.... :idea: 8) :wink:
Cheers
Andy
Genius idea, but the blade no longer escapes the tool. It nearly works by swapping the blades between tools (98 in the 99 and VV).
Great idea though!
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Not even if you remove the fronts?
Cheers
Andy
Cheers
Andy
DigitalM
Established Member
toolsntat":3kwo9wtg said:
Hadn't occurred to me - sorry, tired! Will investigate tonight.
bugbear
Established Member
custard
Established Member
That's a clever little jig, but I bet it takes some making to hit the required level of precision.
One alternative is to put the cutter in a small vice at the relevant angle and hone to the horizontal,
Incidentally, you can see the little flat that Andy mentioned, you need to take pains to make sure that doesn't start creeping along the cutting edge.
They're certainly fiddly little tools to maintain.
Good luck!
One alternative is to put the cutter in a small vice at the relevant angle and hone to the horizontal,
Incidentally, you can see the little flat that Andy mentioned, you need to take pains to make sure that doesn't start creeping along the cutting edge.
They're certainly fiddly little tools to maintain.
Good luck!
Attachments
Sheffield Tony
Ghost of the disenchanted
Something like the method described by toolsntat works for the Record 2506 with detachable nose. Take off the nose, and the knob if it is in the way. Project the blades by an equal small amount. Clamp the whole body of the plane in the grinder's jig, and grind both cutters at once. The advantage of this is you get the slightly different bevel angles on the two blades which compensates perfectly for the slightly different bedding angles needed to allow the two blades to cross, giving the same cutting angle on both. I did this when I first got mine, on a Tiger 2000. Worked nicely.
No use here without detachable nose. But I guess you could use the the card/tape/abrasive to create a small back bevel, then flip the blade and grind carefully until it's just gone ? Seems a bit elaborate.
No use here without detachable nose. But I guess you could use the the card/tape/abrasive to create a small back bevel, then flip the blade and grind carefully until it's just gone ? Seems a bit elaborate.
DigitalM
Established Member
Thanks for all the input. I decided, after reading all the posts, and looking at what I had available here, to try to make something that would work on the work sharp that I bought since posting the original question. I bought the work sharp for reasons other than the Stanley 98/99 issue - I have lots and lots of vintage stuff of mine along with a big box handed to me by my father-in-law to sharpen for him.
It turned out a lot easier than I imagined. About 20 minutes making a little jig from a piece of oak. I rough cut it and squared it on the shooting board, then made a couple of rebates for the blades with a little Stanley router.
This shows the blade mounted in the opposite side so you can see how they are mirrored.
It can't be very thick or it won't fit on the work sharp and go under the rim of the platter head.
To sharpen the 99 blade the jig rests against the right edge of the guide and you can ram it up against the platter rim for stability without it being ground.
This is one handed as I'm holding the camera, it's very safe and controllable. You use both hands to actually do this, obviously!
To sharpen the 98 blade the jig rests against the left edge of the guide. Sorry, no photo, works just as easily.
And the obligatory paper cut test, I know it doesn't mean much, but it does at least show a certain degree of sharpness easily without creating bald patches on your body.
It turned out a lot easier than I imagined. About 20 minutes making a little jig from a piece of oak. I rough cut it and squared it on the shooting board, then made a couple of rebates for the blades with a little Stanley router.
This shows the blade mounted in the opposite side so you can see how they are mirrored.
It can't be very thick or it won't fit on the work sharp and go under the rim of the platter head.
To sharpen the 99 blade the jig rests against the right edge of the guide and you can ram it up against the platter rim for stability without it being ground.
This is one handed as I'm holding the camera, it's very safe and controllable. You use both hands to actually do this, obviously!
To sharpen the 98 blade the jig rests against the left edge of the guide. Sorry, no photo, works just as easily.
And the obligatory paper cut test, I know it doesn't mean much, but it does at least show a certain degree of sharpness easily without creating bald patches on your body.
Attachments
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Very good =D> but put me out of my misery :wink: :lol:
Do the blades fit back to front on the opposite planes to enable my thoughts to work out at all?
In suspense :|
Andy
Do the blades fit back to front on the opposite planes to enable my thoughts to work out at all?
In suspense :|
Andy
DigitalM
Established Member
toolsntat":1snwxyjm said:
Sorry Andy! I hadn't realised that this was an idea, I thought it was something you'd tested before.
Will test for you when I next get a moment. I would probably have done this straight away if my blades just needed a hone, but they needed a proper re-profile.
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Mmmmm, just thought, when you mentioned grind and hone, perhaps the angle may be too low.
Anyhow, let's see what happens.
Cheers
Andy
Anyhow, let's see what happens.
Cheers
Andy
DigitalM
Established Member
I think the result is mixed. It probably can be done, but only with a large adjustment to the bevel angle from 25 to something like 10!
The basic principle is correct:
I guess to hone the blade you would extend it and run it along a piece of wood on top of diamond plate / sandpaper, so that you sharpen the bevel and not the plane.
The problem is that the reversed angle is not the same - mine is ground to 25. Sorry about the focus but I think you can see the point:
I'm sure you could make a sharpening jig to correct for this, but it would be a little more involved than I originally anticipated.
EDIT: Well, I guess a simple, but rather thin wedge would do the job.
The basic principle is correct:
I guess to hone the blade you would extend it and run it along a piece of wood on top of diamond plate / sandpaper, so that you sharpen the bevel and not the plane.
The problem is that the reversed angle is not the same - mine is ground to 25. Sorry about the focus but I think you can see the point:
I'm sure you could make a sharpening jig to correct for this, but it would be a little more involved than I originally anticipated.
EDIT: Well, I guess a simple, but rather thin wedge would do the job.
