STANLEY 4 1/2

[johnwc812]

Hi All
Having used my trusty Stanley 4 1/2 smoothing plane for nigh on 50 years I have just realised how much slack there is on the knurled brass adjusting screw.
If I wish to raise the blade a smidgen there are 3 anti-clockwise turns before the adjustment "bites" followed by 3 clockwise turns to take up the slack.
Is this about normal?
There doesn't appear to be any particular wear to any of the parts.
Any ideas to rectify the problem other than buying new bits.
Cheers John

 

[wizard]

normal

 

[J_SAMa]

Normal. As long as it's still sensitive enough for getting the exact depth there is no problem.
I've never found "taking up the slack" necessary, even when doing the roughest planing (1/32" thick chips taken across the grain with a jack). The blade stays put due to lever cap pressure not mechanical resistance from the adjustment Y-lever.

 

[johnwc812]

Hi
The problem is arthritis in the finger joints that make it difficult and painful to turn the adjustment wheel.
I used to be able to turn the wheel with one finger.
Looking at the problem I was very surprised that the wheel needed three complete turns which seemed excessive.
Cheers John

 

[Bod]

DO NOT follow the "advice" given in some quarters, to bend the Y lever. It will break!! and not be easily replaced.
You Have Been Warned!
Dependant as to where the slack actually is, a machine shop may be able to help, on a one off basis.
Good luck, and let us know how you do it.

Bod

 

[Corneel]

Do you have a thick aftermarker blade in the plane? That adds a lot of backlash.

My #4 also has quite a bit, but it doesn't feel like a problem. I understand that it could be a problem with your fingers. But how to cure the situation? It is often wear in all parts, so you would have to exchange the adjuster wheel, the yoke, the capiron(?), maybe even the threaded rod.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I read somewhere long ago that to avoid any chance of movement in the blade it's last adjustment should be on it's way out rather than on it's way in, so that effectively there isn't any slack. Seems to make sense. I've not seen a plane that's any different btw.

 

[RogerP]

The slack is absolutely normal and all planes I've ever had with that type of adjustment have been the same.

I don't see it as any sort of problem.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

I'm not being facetious, but the backlash is not really the problem for your arthritis, as it is mainly free running slack. If you are having problems with that, the the actual adjustment part, under tension will be more trouble. Curing excessive backlash, if it could be done, might just be a hiding for nothing. Have you thought of selling the plane and getting a woodie or something that uses a hammer to adjust? Might be more arthritis friendly, and I certainly find them more responsive to adjustments than Bailey planes anyway.

Mike.

 

[Bedrock]

There seem to be a couple of points from which the slack can arise:
!. Between the cheeks of the Y lever and the groove in the adjustment wheel; or
2. Between the toungue of the Y lever and the slot in the cap iron.

You could try replacing the Y lever with one from Clifton, if they are still available. I think the round cheeks are slightly larger than the originals, but at least a new part will not be worn. Easy to do, just drive out the pivot pin, then tap it back into the new one, less than 5 minutes, and the Clifton part was still cheap when I last bought one.
I agree that it does not affect the use of the plane, but in your situation, I guess anything would be an improvement.
Otherwise a replacement cap iron might help, if the slot is slightly narrower. I will have a look at the various replacement cap irons I use - Clifton, Hock and Robert Sorby, and check whether any of them have a narrower slot. More expensive solution, probably best to try the replacment Y lever first.

The last alternative would be somewhat more dramatic, but second hand frogs are usually available with the lever and adjustment wheel for under £10. You are not far from me (near Winchester) and I have a couple of spare wheels and levers, so if it would help, I would be happy to have a look.
Hope this helps.
Mike

 

[johnwc812]

Hi All,
Thank you all for your replies. and ideas.
Thank you Bedrock for your specific idea and possible research.
Thank you Woodbrains, looking at the problem it was the surprising number of turns that foxed me.
I can actualy make the final adjustment by tilting the plane on its side and using foefinger and thumb.

I have decided to try and sweat a small shim of brass (about 1mm thick) in the cap iron rectangular slot.
This shim could then be filed with a needle file to obtain a good fit with the Y lever. The rest of the plane need not be touched.
It might just work!
Cheers John

 

[Trafalgar]

Hi All
Having used my trusty Stanley 4 1/2 smoothing plane for nigh on 50 years I have just realised how much slack there is on the knurled brass adjusting screw.
If I wish to raise the blade a smidgen there are 3 anti-clockwise turns before the adjustment "bites" followed by 3 clockwise turns to take up the slack.
Is this about normal?
There doesn't appear to be any particular wear to any of the parts.
Any ideas to rectify the problem other than buying new bits.
Cheers John

It's normal. Oil the mechanism and the knob will spin easily to a dead stop and then make your adjustment.