spray foam insulation

[woodiedonald]

Has anyone got spray foam insulation in their house/shed. I'm thinking of doing it as cold and damp shed causes too many moisture related problems in winter, (wood taking on moisture, rust on metal surfaces and makes me miserable to name but a few!)

I have block walls atm, thinking of studding wall and using MFC (chipboard) as slabs for wall. I need it to keep the moisture out and keep it warm inside.

Just want to know what would be suitable and don't want to ring insulation firm and for them to try sell me the spray foam regardless of where it goes.

any comments/opinion welcome!

Cheers
D

 

[Harbo]

My thoughts are that you would only want to use spray for areas you cannot properly reach or filling gaps?
I rebuilt my shed following Mike Garnham's design:
OSB walls, 100mm Rockwall insulation, breather membrane, 25mm air gap then weather boarding.
Nice and cosy.
If thickness is an issue you could use thinner Celotex?

Rod

 

[blackrodd]

You don't say how big this workshop is, I would dry line it, were it mine.
If you have, or can get the expertise, the best and cheapest solution would be to Synthaprufe the block walls from floor,
up 5',( 1.500mm) up the wall to stop moisture ingress and dry line (Dot n' Dab the wall with 40mm thermal board, the same method used in converting an out building into a habitable building, works really well.
Here's a link to the blurb on 22mm, B. Gypsum. with all the values, etc.
The Cellotex range is too expensive and not always VFM.
I would use this (22mm) for tacking the ceiling and go thicker, 38/40mm on the walls, cut with a handsaw and board saw keep 1/2" off the floor and just tape with wickes materials would be simplest,
And you will be pleased you did.
Regards Rodders

http://www.insulationshop.co/british_gy ... Ajf88P8HAQ

 

[RobinBHM]

You could completely cover the interior block walls with celetex (or any PIR insulation, ecotherm etc), then screw on 50 x 25 tiling battens laid flat, then over board with 18mm OSB3. The advantage of dong this is that the insulation covers the whole of the wall leaving no thermal bridging that you would get by studding the walls first. Also there is no timber touching damp walls.

You would need to tape all the joints.

 

[woodiedonald]

Sorry, forgot to say the area is a shed 6 x 12 metres, two stories. my workshop is downstairs on 2/3 of the floor. the other third is accessed from outside. there is a mezzanine floor over the other third. the workshop space is double height, ceiling is approx 8m high.

I was thinking of studding the lower half and the upper half which will not be used I was thinking of just leaving straight foam on block wall. If it were smaller I would dry line it no question, spray foam seems better to me, but then what do i know?

Rod, the type of foam is what is shown in this video not the gap filling type in a litre can.

 

[RobinBHM]

I would say spray foam would work very well, given the large area.

I looked into doing this on a corrugated warehouse roof a while back. Although it didnt happen in the end, I was confident from my research that it is an ideal way to both insulate and completely seal any gaps at the same time. Its main disadvantage is that the finish is going to be quite uneven, so only really suitable for hidden areas. To save money I had intended to buy the kits and do it myself.

http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/wareh ... lation.htm

 

[Myfordman]

Make sure you have a damp proof membrane in the floor before you head for 'sealed room' solution.

 

[finish_that]

just be careful with the application

https://gfycat.com/ifrt/EarnestEqualAlpinegoat

 

[blackrodd]

First thing for damp and cold cellar type place is Ventilation at floor level,
Spray foam, not sure of any fire or insurance ratings. If that's the method you would like to do, then OK,
You'll probably need some stud or depth indication, If the walls are damp, not a good idea to fix timber to it unless you tack Dpc to the timber's wall edge.
I've had a bit to do with spray insulations , Foam and cellulose (Newspaper) and fir retardants in supermarkets, hospital , office and steel roof spans, and the only thing is it is so final and it's very difficult to remove for any repairs that we don't always envisage, and we all know what these insurance companies are like!

Sounds like you've done some research, here's a link for some that I found, you're probably familiar with.
Regards Rodders

https://www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/index-inx-10.php