Splitting Oak

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SteveF

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I have an oak tree that is approx 15" across and has been cut into approx 2' lengths
only use I can imagine is bowls,bowls and maybe more bowls

how do you go about splitting these so they fit on the bandsaw please?

Steve
 
I usually cut my logs to 18" in length and then they fit my hydraulic wood splitter that I use for splitting firewood, it splits anything up to 30" dia.
 
I would say that I will come over Steve and cut them with my chainsaw but at this moment in time I am laid up with a bad back and inproving and but still not driving. I will just be glad to get back in the shed turning again.
The only solution that I use to do is get a wedge and split them down the grain but this did not always leave them the same thickness depending on the grain.
Does this mean you are now back into turning :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
if it is reasonably straight grained, I have used splitting wedges before. if it is less straight grained, you can still do it, but it is harder work.

not sure if it is correct, but I stand it on end and hammer in a wedge near the edge, to start the split. Then lay it on its side and put a wedge in the split. As it opens, put another in and work the split along- this can be the one from the end. 3 wedges are ideal. I have steel, but it might work with timber ones too, particularly when started.

I have an electric chainsaw, but I tend to split logs (the few that I process for turning) when I can because I quite like doing it that way and it is quicker than finding chainsaw oil, setting it up for a safe cut, getting the extension lead out, sharpening the thing etc.
 
i need to get back into woodturning

i thought it was wrong to rip with a chainsaw?
i will look at getting some wedges
seems a shame not to turn these down whilst still wet
Steve
 
SteveF":ct2c4fwe said:
i need to get back into woodturning

i thought it was wrong to rip with a chainsaw?

Steve

Glad you are getting back into woodturning Steve.

I always rip mine down with the chainsaw not had any problems
 
You can rip the log with a chain on a chainsaw that has been modified to have a 10 degree grind....it then becomes a "ripping" chain and you can stand the log on end and rip down from the end grain. It's a much more stable method and produces small flaky style chippings which don't clog the chainsaw drive wheel or the cogs in the bar.

However, it's a bit of a drag to get the chain sharpened that way, or expensive if you buy a ripping chain and ripping down the log with it on it's side is perfectly do-able if you're careful. I would suggest two steps to ensure success:

1) make sure your chain is super sharp before you start
2) Be judicious about ensuring the shavings don't clog up the drive wheel by making certain they have a decent exit path. The shavings, when you rip the log down the side, as suggested here are much longer than when you cross cut the log and they have a tendency to block everything, including the nose of the bar in the cog wheel there. Avoid this by keeping the chainsaw oriented in such a way that the shavings are never stopped by either the log or any other obstruction. In practice this means a see-sawing action with tip down followed by handle side down and then repeat as the cut proceeds down the log.

You'll wind up with a monster pile of very long shavings and a fairly rough cut but I do it all the time and then finish the resultant slabs off on the bandsaw, either into bowl blanks or square spindle blanks of varying thicknesses. Don't forget to seal the end grain with pva/wax/paint etc
 
Ripping chain is available from some online suppliers. the cost is about the same for cross cut chain. I have forgotten where I got mine from but think (for my Ikra saw) a 91R comes to mind.

It is best to make a saw horse specifically for this job that holds the log standing on end at about 45 degrees. Cut horizontally with the usual swinging action. That way the cut wood is in shorter lengths and wont clog the saw so much.
ripping is cutting "with" the grain, not "along" the grain.. just look how a ripping handsaw would be used. So cut from the top with the log leaning towards you. IE cut so the chain is coming out of the end not digging in.

It doesn't have to be all bowls. Once you have your log split is is usually safe to quarter saw it for making small spindles or glued up work.
 
I got a ripping chain for my 16" stihl bar from chainsdirect.co.uk - I've no connection with them, and was happy with the price and service. IIRC it was about £12 plus postage - Just keep it hanging in the shed and swap it onto the bar when ripping - Simples!
 
thankyou everyone for response

I will let you know how i get on with it once I feel upto it
No point in spindles for me I never turn them

Steve
 
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