Spa House Project

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DiscoStu

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Location
Lee on the Solent
Not sure if anyone wants to see, but I'm building a "house" to put our spa in. First time I've attempted anything like this (so go easy on me) but here are the photos of it so far:

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Because of the location I'm having to make the roof completely separate and then add it on at the end - which could prove interesting!
 

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Looks pretty good to me, I see You have staggered the noggins in the back wall, best way for a good fixing, in my opinion, instead of "skew" nailing or screwing.
And a nice tidy job and WIP.
I assume that as it's in what looks like a sheltered corner, wind and the "sail" effect should not be a problem.
Two observations, firstly, I would have doubled up the head stud for rigidity, they will "bag" under their own weight,
I wouldn't rely on the planking to strengthen the structure.
And, As you are probably aware, a cubic metre of water is 222 gallons, in old money, or, I believe a metric tonne.
Calculating the spa, plus water and two, or more revelers, what provisions have you made underneath to carry the extra weight combination of the above?
Having made platforms for banks of water storage tanks in the roof space of several hotels, It's sometimes necessary
to know nerdy stuff like that!
Regards Rodders
 
What does doubling up the head stud mean?

The base is decking which was built to cope with the spa and has had it on for a couple of years but just a gazebo to cover it.
 
2 layers of timber round the top.

Fwiw I usually double up any frame where there will be a door hanging, reduces the chance of the door frame moving/twisting etc.
 
The extremely close proximity of next door's fascia/soffit, and your own guttering are a bit concerning.
 
Ah! It will have two layers of timber around the top, the second layer will have the roof attached as a one piece affair! I know that's not normal but once it's in place I won't be able to cover it etc.
 
doorframe":17gl4jcy said:
The extremely close proximity of next door's fascia/soffit, and your own guttering are a bit concerning.


Yes, well spotted Doorframe, Second head from underneath then!
Regards Rodders
 
Little tip

Put lots and lots and then a whole lot mre of sound proofing in.

I lived next to somebody with a whirlpool/ jacuzi and it was hell

It was like living next to public swiming pool, the sound carriers quite a bit
 
I've just looked at you're post of 26th last month, "a roofing question" and suggest, if this is drawn as seen, that you turn
The roof line around as it not a good idea to either get involved in a box gutter, or run the rain roof water against the brick wall to drain away.
Run the small "mansard"across the front, left, as photographed, and the soffit/gutter line, at the neighbour's fence, right hand, as photo, at the rear.
And I suggest you double up the head from underneath, and, if possible fix another upright "stud"midway of all 3 walls to accomadate the finished weight of ply, rafters, and shingles
Regards Rodders
 
The roof will need to stay as it is but I am going to put guttering down between the wall and the roof.

As for sound proofing - it won't be getting any as some of the openings are just going to be canvas. However our neighbours shouldn't mind too much as generally we don't bother with the bubbles as I too don't like trying to relax with the noise going on.

I thin kyou need to think of this as more of a shed than a house. It's basically replacing a gazebo which only lasted a couple of years.
 
Ok, well I changed the roof design! Although that did mean txt I didn't end up with double thickness wood all around the top, but I did for most of it.

Considering this is my first ever project of this sort of nature I'm quite pleased with it.

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Looks very good! nice gentle roof angle, If you are still after the red ashphalt roofing shingles, they will blend in nicely.
with you're surroundings, keep posting!
Regards Rodders
 
Ok! I'll keep posting, but it's only likely to be weekend updates!

Roof will be ply, felt underlay and then shingles.

I've got to make a back door

Clad the inside MR MDF with T&G effect.

Line the roof - not sure with what yet

Do the electrics

Do the water

Install the canvas covers for the windows

Do the lights

Sort the hot tub

And then I can actually relax!
 
I've just posted a roofing question. Any ideas as to what I can use to stick felt underlay onto my ply? I don't want to use clout nails if I can avoid it.
 
If you read the blurb on felt roofs, it has been recommended that the primary layer is fixed with small clouts.
This is to counter the movement differences of timber(ply) decking and the felt which are totally different.If memory serves, every 12", or 15"both ways.
To last a really long time, I use Wickes felt, I would lay the first course from the gutter, up to the ridge, back down to the gutter line, and overlap on the 100mm chalked line, use enough nails to secure only.
This will allow the second course to be in sync with you're shingles, laid across ways, and securely fixed at, say, every 12". Make up and fix the perimeter welts, folded, and secret nailed to the treated 2" x 1"along the fascia.
In you're situation I would not use lead soakers, Clean and prime the marked strip you'll be fixing to and use alcan foil
flashing, Good stuff when people use the primer, I have found, and easy to repair, a few years down the line.
Completely stick, and seal the ends using Wickes gutter sealant, which sticks like the proverbial, but is very flexible.
I've probably bogged you down, I guess a Google search will bring this all up for you.
HTH Regards Rodders
 
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