sorry, more questions.

[chief]

Thanks for all your help so far in designing my built in wardrobes , i have a few more quetions i you dont mind.

1. I am going to make the wardrobes out of veneered ply wood, is the construction method still the same :?:

2. Should i still use 18mm for the sides, top, bottom, and shlves. Then use 6mm for the back :?:

3. How many biscuit should i use on the corner joints, and how far should i space them apart :?: (is it just a case of placing them between the carcass screws spacing )

4. I am going to make the wardrobes in the garage first, then assemble in the bedroom. Should i drill the pilot and clearance holes (for carcase screws), and screw the wardrobes together in the garage (then take apart) and assemble in the wardobe in the bedrroom :?: (or just do the biscuit joints in the garage, and screw together in the bedroom).

I hope you dont mind answering my questions for me, all the advice given so far has been much appreciated.

thanks

 

[jasonB]

You need 18mm but will have a job finding veneered ply over 12mm thick off the shelf and even the thinner sizes are one good side/balancer.

Jason

 

[chief]

I just replied to you screwfix :lol:

After a lot of hard work i have managed to find some 18mm ply, and its veneered both sides.

Is it all still the same construction method :?:

sorry to be a hassle

 

[jasonB]

1.Yes method is the same.

2. 18mm sides, top, bottom and any shelves. 6mm back

3. Assuming your carcase is approx 600mm deep I would have 4 biscuits across the joint, 50mm in from each edge and 200mm from each edge. Also 4 screws 75mm and 175mm from each edge that way they should just miss the No 10 biscuits. You could also get away with 3 biscuits/4 screws.

4. Biscuit and clearance holes in the garage, if you want to test fit then also do the pilots in the garage and screw it together. If you are confident of your construction then just biscuits/clearance in garage then assemble face down in bedroom, drill pilots, screw together, fit backs and stand upright (make sure there is enough ceiling height).

Technically birch ply is not a decorative veneered ply, it is a high quality ply that is made from multiple layers of birch (cheaper versions are birch over a softwood core) also watch out for the chinese birch ply as it can be a bit whippy :wink: The good stuff does finish well with clear acrylic.

Jason

Jason

 

[chief]

Cheers jasonb for answering my question again, if you dont mind a cuouple more questions and then i should be ready.

With regards the base of the wardrobes i am right that bottom panel is at floor level, and not raised like with kitchen cabinets :?:

Is there a rule of thumb with calculating the ceiling heght reqired :?: or how do i caculate it :?: as i am getting the boards cut at the merchants.

What is best to use to cut the scribed sides :?: Is a normal universal hand saw ok :?:

thanks again

 

[jasonB]

As you are going for sliding doors then the carcase will really have to go straight onto the floor, check it for level first, if its out then thin strips of timber will be needed to pack it up. For hinged doors I usually make a plinth of 32x63 CLS (softwood) and level this then stand the carcases on top.

Your height will again need to suit the premade doors but generally you need 1000mm for single hanging, 2000mm for full height with shoe space below or a shelf above. As most of what I make is made to fit the room I go by the ceiling height which gives me about 100mm plinth, 2200mm doors 100mm cornice assuming a standard 8ft ceiling, if its an old house with tall ceilings then either an extra cupboard above or just stop it at 8ft as anything more is not easy to reach.

The ceiling height I was talking about refers to the fact that a 2440 carcase 600 deep is 2520 across the corners when you try to stand it up!!

A hand saw will be able to follow slight variations when you scribe, if the wall is all over the place then a jigsaw may be better.

Jason

 

[chief]

thanks for the great advice again jason

The ceiling height is about 2.3m high. The wardrobes are going to be 610mm deep (this is the dimension i got from a woodwork book so i dont if it is correct ), would it better to make them 600mm deep instead :?:

I had planned to make the wardrobes about 2280mm tall but i guess this is not enough clearance space, could you tell me how tall i should make the wardrobes :?: (Is it more like 2200mm)

The stanley sliding doors i am going to use are full length, according to the manufacturers instructions the minimum opening they fit is 2260mm. So that should be ok, i think.

thanks

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Chief,

Pythagoras said something about the lengths of sides on triangles.

Cheers,

Dod

 

[chief]

sorrry dod, pythagoras was a lot cleverer than me, and i have not done any of that since school

 

[George_N]

For a carcass that is 600 mm deep and 2280 tall the diagonal measurement from bottom front to top back will be 2358 mm, so when you try to stand it upright after assembly it will wedge between floor and ceiling. You will either have to assemble it standing upright (possible but tricky on your own) or make slightly shorter units (absolute maxumum of 2220 mm, but that does not allow for uneven floor or variation in ceiling height).