Slot/rebate cutting - beginner seeking help

[Aggrajag]

I think the title gives it all away but of course I'll elaborate. I'm making really simple 3" boat shaped stands, out of cheap pine, for a glass project. They need a rebate from the centre of the back to about 1" from the front. The sides of the boat aren't perpendicular so I'm having to do these before I cut the boat shape.

I have a cheap, let's be frank it's utter ****, Dremel 3000 coupled with both their even more appalling router table and drill press. The table sort of works but as I'm not cutting the full length of the boat I'm having start/stop wandering issues where I enter or leave the front middle of the boat, which is upside down so I'm also guessing the start/end point, plus the table is so bad it's not really suitable. I could persevere, but I don't want to, I need to make loads of these.

I've tried using the same "3mm multipurpose spiral cutting bit" in my "proper" bench drill whacked up to full speed but I still have wandering issues where it's affected by the rotation of the bit, and aside from that I don't have a proper table guide. I clamped some wood on but as every boat pattern is in a slightly different location on each piece of wood the endless adjustment of the wood quickly became tiresome.

I have a real 1/4"-1/2" router table but I don't have any 3mm bits that fit. Searching the forums and google I hear about cutter bits but I can't establish if these go on router tables or on dedicated machinery.

So what's the best way of doing a 2" long, 3mm wide rebate on a 3" piece of wood?

Any advice seriously appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Are they to painted, or how important is the appearance? If so could you rebate a long strip, cut it into 3" pieces and fill the part of the rebate you don't need. How many are you talking about? Tens? Thousands? You could make several lengths with the groove slightly different from one to the next - I'd think the material and waste cost would be well outweighed by labour cost.

 

[Aggrajag]

Thanks Phil.

They are being left plain so I don't think filling is suitable. I'm only starting with ten as a sample run but hoping to get another hundred. I've been reading continuously since posting and I *think* a 3mm circular cutter will work on the router table using either the guideboard or a specific bearing size to control the depth. That way I'll be cutting in sideways so I'll be able to see where I'm starting/stopping plus of course the cut will be very straight.

Just trying to locate a decent seller/price combination.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Rou ... ers_1.html
is usually the go to.

 

[marcros]

i would go with a 3mm bit in the router, and some stop blocks/marks. how deep is the cut? make multiple passes if necessary

 

[Aggrajag]

The groove only needs to be approx 5-7mm deep.

 

[Aggrajag]

Wealden was one of the two sites I'd narrowed it down to, I think I'll be spending my dough there. Thanks for your help guys.

 

[Mr T]

I'm a little concerned about the safety issues here. You plan to rout a 3mm by 5-7mm deep groove 2" long in a 3" piece of wood. That means getting your fingers very near the cutter with a very small piece of wood that may be unstable! It would be best if you could do this in longer strips as Phil suggested, when he says fill the spare bits of groove you would not use "filler" but wood to match which may not look too bad.

If you have to do it in small bits start the cut with a stop clamped to the fence to locate the starting point and provide stability. Use a stop also for the end of cut.

Is the circular cutter you plan to use like this http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Groover_134.html. Obviously this will leave a sloping end on the groove which may not be what you want.

Chris

 

[Mr T]

I have just spotted that you are down in Sheffield. If you are unsure about using the router table I would be happy to spend a couple of hours with you on my router table to show you the ropes. I'm up the M1 in Ilkley if you feel like making the journey.

Chris

 

[RobinBHM]

Why not use a guide bush and a simple jig?

 

[Wizard9999]

I have just spotted that you are down in Sheffield. If you are unsure about using the router table I would be happy to spend a couple of hours with you on my router table to show you the ropes. I'm up the M1 in Ilkley if you feel like making the journey.

Chris

What a kind offer, if it were me I'd be biting your arm off Chris! =D> =D> =D>

 

[Wildman]

how about a biscuit cutter?

 

[skipdiver]

I'm a little concerned about the safety issues here. You plan to rout a 3mm by 5-7mm deep groove 2" long in a 3" piece of wood. That means getting your fingers very near the cutter with a very small piece of wood that may be unstable! It would be best if you could do this in longer strips as Phil suggested, when he says fill the spare bits of groove you would not use "filler" but wood to match which may not look too bad.

If you have to do it in small bits start the cut with a stop clamped to the fence to locate the starting point and provide stability. Use a stop also for the end of cut.

Is the circular cutter you plan to use like this http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Groover_134.html. Obviously this will leave a sloping end on the groove which may not be what you want.

Chris

That was my immediate thought also. Routing small pieces like that is tricky for someone who is used to routers but for a beginner it strays into the realm of dangerous, especially a stopped groove.

 

[Aggrajag]

I'm a little concerned about the safety issues here. You plan to rout a 3mm by 5-7mm deep groove 2" long in a 3" piece of wood. That means getting your fingers very near the cutter with a very small piece of wood that may be unstable! It would be best if you could do this in longer strips as Phil suggested, when he says fill the spare bits of groove you would not use "filler" but wood to match which may not look too bad.

If you have to do it in small bits start the cut with a stop clamped to the fence to locate the starting point and provide stability. Use a stop also for the end of cut.

Is the circular cutter you plan to use like this http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Groover_134.html. Obviously this will leave a sloping end on the groove which may not be what you want.

Chris

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the comments. Yes that's the sort of cutter I've ordered, can't recall if it's the exact one. I ordered a different sized bearing too so I could alter the depth.

I had already considered the safety aspect, it's something I take seriously. I do have experience using a router (for 1/4" slots and for picture frames) so I'm not a complete beginner on it but I'll certainly take your advice onboard.

 

[Aggrajag]

I have just spotted that you are down in Sheffield. If you are unsure about using the router table I would be happy to spend a couple of hours with you on my router table to show you the ropes. I'm up the M1 in Ilkley if you feel like making the journey.

Chris

Thanks again Chris, that's a very generous offer from you. I'll decline though I'm sorry to say as it is still a 3 hour round trip and it's a chaotic time of year for us all

Appreciate it though. Cheers.

 

[Aggrajag]

Guide bush, simple jig and biscuit cutter all mean nothing to me - this is perhaps why I had to ask the question in the first place. Time to get more researching done.

 

[Blockplane]

Is it important that the boat 'hulls' be one piece? I would suggest an alternative approach - make a 3-piece lamination, with a thin central piece (possibly from ply ) with an extended 'U' shape cutout corresponding to the desired slot.

 

[skipdiver]

Guide bush, simple jig and biscuit cutter all mean nothing to me - this is perhaps why I had to ask the question in the first place. Time to get more researching done.

Jig and guide bush is the way i would go with a straight cutter.