Shower panels instead of tiling.

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I have a friend who is opening his new bathroom showroom this weekend, and he has a display of them They look great and he says they are excellent. The company he gets them from has a piece of the stuff that has been submerged in water for over 3 years and it is not adversely affected in any structural way (i.e. dimensionally). It is discoloured, but that's all.

I have a little utility room (ex-coal-house) and I've thinking of using them in there.
S
 
Ok I'm going to weigh in from a professional point of view, having sold these over many years, and fitted a few sets too. I don't like them, at least I don't like most of the ones that get made cheaply, so buy good quality ones. The cost of thicker heavier ones can be quite a lot, BUT they can fit in minutes thus saving you time, and money too if somone else is doing the fitting. My general sales pitch for these was you can do an entire bathroom is less time than a good builder can tile just 1 wall (inc grouting etc) with normal sized tiles. Higher material cost, significantly less labour cost. Here's a few things you need to look for regardless of manufacturer:

- firstly like wallpaper, buy packs with the same batch codes, if there's not enough in stock, get them ordered, there's a high chance you'll regret it if you don't. Don't beleive the salesman when he say's "it'll be fine", either he's new or lying because I've seen it with my own eyes enough times to know that batches differ.

- the pattern matching, some brands are a bit lax in this area and I've seen many boxes (they come in packs) where the patterns didn't match up or align properly with the boards, so check the packs in the car park after you bought them but BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE PREMISES, and check ALL the packs you bought.

- check that the T & G sections are properly formed, all of these are made by hot extrusion forming and often the T & G's are malformed and won't fit together snugly enough to give a decent joint, ergo they will let water through to the base behind.

- Don't beleive the salesman if he says the T & G makes a watertight seal on it's own, it doesn't. When fitting draw a thin bead of clear silicone inside the groove before pushing together. Don't rely on the tiles behind because grout is permaeable and water won't have the same ability to get out as before with these sealed over the top.

- Don't skimp, avoid the really cheap thin ones usually 4mm thick or so like the plague, the thicker and heavier the better. You can buy sheets that are 10mm thick and sturdy with the inside support vanes being hard and close together, this avoids the possibility of denting or punching through the thin topcoat, so you can be as energetic as you like in the shower, some are so thin I've been able to pierce it with my long pinky fingernail.

- Buy the fitting profiles made for the job (even though they may well seem expensive for what they are), they will make fitting much easier, can be a contrasting colour and will make sealing the top and bottom edges simpler and neater (again with beads of silicone inside). Often you can get aluminium versions of same for some brands, but IMHO they are overkill.

If the wall(s) you are covering will require cutouts, buy the panel versions rather than sheets - panels are usually around 300 - 450mm wide. This will make doing cutouts significantly easier than using a larger sheet - I've been there and know from experience so just don't :)

Come time to sell the house people often say "I don't like those plastic sheets" right up to the point you say "no grout mould / discoloration, ever", and fitted correctly they are impervious to water, unlike grout, so no chances of mould growing in the bathroom in the walls behind the tiles.

From sales numbers I can also say the simpler patterned varieties sell a lot more than the heavy patternd ones, so think ahead a bit if you are planning to sell the house within the next 10-15 years or so or the cost of redoing the bathroom may well be reduced from your asking price.

hope that helps, please come again :)

edit: if you want more advice send me some links of one's you are considering and I'll try to help.
 
We had to do a wet room re-fit on a budget and I used white plastivan cladding. It's T&G sheets of the same dimensions as those in your link. Quite thick, hollow with internal structure. It was fast and easy to fit, we had 4m (width) up in about 2 days and that included quite a few complex cuts. Once trimmed out it looks really smart and is dead easy to care for. Does it look the most professional? No, but it was fast, cost effective and does the job very nicely and a darn site faster and easier to get a neat job than tiling. We used silicone to stick ours onto battens we fitted to the walls, silicone was also used in the joints and the corned were either trimmed or siliconed depending on what was best. Did it about 4 years ago, the silicone is going a bit discoloured and needs re-doing but the panels themselves look perfect.

Taking care of them is easy, DON'T use any kind of abrasive cleaner like Cif, just use an ordinary bathroom cleaner spray and a soft cloth, we also use a window squeegee after we shower. If it doesn't get scratched from cleaning then there is no where for dirt to settle and mould to grow.
 
Thanks for the replies, and the advice, This shower is going in the only corner, on a flat plastered stud wall, so I can presumably stick these panels back, and seal the top and bottoms at the shower tray, and the "starter" ally strips for the
cubicle sides.
Regards Rodders.
 
Personally I don't think panels are quicker than tiling & are more expensive.

I recently fitted out a U shaped shower with Mermaid board, by the time I'd got the profiles spot so as to give a perfect finish & got the panels fitted I could have tiled the same area. The total cost of this installation was double what it would have been even if using over average priced tiles.

I know you can get cheap plastic panels, but equally you can get cheap 6x6" tiles, having once fitted the plastic panels I wouldn't bother again, I ended up siliconing every joint & was really not impressed with their quality & doubtful of their longevity.
 
Doug B":mi3rj43p said:
Personally I don't think panels are quicker than tiling & are more expensive.

I recently fitted out a U shaped shower with Mermaid board, by the time I'd got the profiles spot so as to give a perfect finish & got the panels fitted I could have tiled the same area. The total cost of this installation was double what it would have been even if using over average priced tiles.

I know you can get cheap plastic panels, but equally you can get cheap 6x6" tiles, having once fitted the plastic panels I wouldn't bother again, I ended up siliconing every joint & was really not impressed with their quality & doubtful of their longevity.


I think it depends on the specific job. If you have a smalle area with well prepped surface in good condition that is ready to tile right onto then you are right, it will be cheaper and possibly even faster to tile. If you were in the situation I was in though the panels were easily the fastest and easiest solution as otherwise we would have to totally prep the walls to make them flat and even enough, then build boxing around all the various pipework and it was a large area to work on being a wetroom style. The panels were able to be fixed to a basic batten system that allowed for all pipes to run behind the panels and meant the condition of the wall behind was unimportant.
 
I have not used the Ally strips on a wall run, only to trim the exposed cut edges where they are seen, window reveals and the like, which are normally out side the "wet zone", the sheets I use when just doing a shower, have one long post formed edge which I run just past the shower tray/enclosure uprights to give me a finished edge on the wall, with the cut corner joints in the "wet zone" sealed with good quality Silicone, usually only takes a couple of hours to fit, and job done.
 
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