Shennanigans with the 112...

[woodbloke]

We all know that LN make rather nice planes, and the 112 big scraper plane is no exception:

It works very well, provided that the corners are knocked off (so it doesn't dig in or leave tram lines) One of the issues is that the blade comes ground at 45deg and is far too wide to keep on honing, so I decided to grind the bevel back to 35deg:

...on the Tormek, took me 10 minutes. If you try it, you'll see that the blade is far too wide to fit...so how was it done? I've also developed something else to hone the edge back to 45deg...but what? Puzzles, puzzles :-" - Rob...in very smug mode :lol:

 

[Paul Chapman]

...on the Tormek..................the blade is far too wide to fit...

The improved square edge jig for the Tormek takes blades up to 3" wide, so it will fit in the more recent models. But I'd still be interested to know how you did it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

...on the Tormek..................the blade is far too wide to fit...

The improved square edge jig for the Tormek takes blades up to 3" wide, so it will fit in the more recent models. But I'd still be interested to know how you did it.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Nope...my Tormek is over 10 years old with the original blade and chisel jig - Rob

 

[David C]

Before the improved sq edge jig, I used the Tormek flat table.

For honing at 45 degrees, the wonderful far eastern eclipse clone does it.

Did Rob use eclipse for both??

David C

 

[woodbloke]

Before the improved sq edge jig, I used the Tormek flat table.

For honing at 45 degrees, the wonderful far eastern eclipse clone does it.

Did Rob use eclipse for both??

David C

Nope...nice try David, but no cigar :lol: It has to be said though that the 112 blade will just fit my original Eclipse guide with a little bit of fettling, but it's not what I use for honing.

Keep going boys...answers shortly :lol: - Rob

 

[Cheshirechappie]

By eye, checking fequently with an engineer's square for edge straightness and squareness to sides.

 

[Argus]

.

I've never used a Tormek, so l can't visualise what the jig looks like - or its literal short-comings.

However, it is theoretically possible to invert the plane itself with the blade protruding at 35 degrees..... then holding the Tormek up-side down.....


:wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:


.

 

[woodbloke]

To put you out of your misery, this:

...is how it was done, using the planer grinding jig, as I never actually said what jig I was using, did I? :lol: But it still leaves the problem of honing the edge at 45deg because this:

...is the problemo. It won't fit the Kell III. I know Paul, that it'll fit the VMkII but I'm not forking out £50+ on a jig to hone one blade (I'm not a collector :-" ) so how is the blade honed? - Rob

 

[jimi43]

You spun the jig 180 degrees and used it against the leather strop wheel?

Jim

 

[woodbloke]

You spun the jig 180 degrees and used it against the leather strop wheel?

Jim

Nope...keep going. You'll ](*,) bang your bonce against a wall when you see how easy it is - Rob

 

[theartfulbodger]

A jig to use the side of the wheel and not the outside edge?

 

[Karl]

You turned real neanderthal and honed it freehand

 

[Paul Chapman]

An Eclipse-style honing guide.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Karl - honing freehand is not 'neanderthal', it's 'skilled'.

(Or alternatively, the method preferred by people too tight to shell out for honing jigs. *cough*)

 

[Karl]

Was tongue in cheek CC

 

[AndyT]

I'm not familiar with Tormeks and have not read the Book of Kells, but that planer blade jig holds your blade ok and seems to have little wheels on the back - can you just keep the blade in it, and use it as an outsize honing jig, rolling unobstructed across sheets of lapping film on glass?

Or maybe using its side-to-side sliding motion as the source of stability?

 

[woodbloke]

Here's how it's done. This is one of Axminster's de-luxe honing guides:

...fitted with the 112 blade. Under normal circumstances, this jig is also too narrow to take the blade, but if you:

...move the existing bolts to the outside pair of holes (no drilling needed) and make a new brass plate to fit the extended hole spacing...voila! you now have a decent honing guide with a wide roller that will accept blades wider than 75mm. From the underside all you need to do is to:

...fit the existing countersunk bolts into a couple of screw sockets. Jobs a gud'n, n'est pas? :mrgreen: :mrgreen: (hammer) - Rob

 

[jimi43]

This is like a blinkin' Agatha Christie mystery.

The clues are all there but they bear no significance to the answer which is only divulged at the end! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Well...at least we know what to do if we want to hone a blade over 75mm now.... :wink:

Tormek.....planer blade jig....Axminster deluxe honing guide.....

I have a sneeky feeling that Jacob will be along in a mo.... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[bugbear]

I know how I'd have done it.

http://web.archive.org/web/200605092150 ... pening_jig

Yet to meet anything I can't sharpen with it, and it only cost a coupla' quid.

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

I know how I'd have done it.

http://web.archive.org/web/200605092150 ... pening_jig

Yet to meet anything I can't sharpen with it, and it only cost a coupla' quid.

BugBear

If it's the 'over the top' jig you're referring to BB, the bottom sentence is crucial in that it says...'set up time can be considerable'. This way takes no more that 10 seconds to put the jig and blade against a projection board, set for 45deg - Rob