garethharvey
Established Member
Been using shellac for the first time but have a quick question. Do I need to cover the finish with anything or can I just leave this as a finish on it's own?
Shellac as a finish on it's own
- Thread starter garethharvey
- Start date
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It's up to you. You can add pretty much anything on top if you want, or not. Many people use only one or two coats of shellac, then wax. You can add lots more layers for more colour and more protection. (Optionally, apply with a rubber and all the extra care needed and you can call it French Polish.)
You could apply varnish, clear or coloured.
Or you could even paint over it - some primers are shellac based.
You could apply varnish, clear or coloured.
Or you could even paint over it - some primers are shellac based.
profchris
Established Member
I use shellac as the sole finish on some of my ukuleles and guitars. It's much tougher than you might think once it has fully cured - a bit fragile for the first week, pretty tough after a month. I have a 90 year old instrument whose shellac finish seems pretty indesctructable.
Pros: shows up grain really well, you can get a real depth of finish; low fume/non-toxic; easy to apply if you take it slow.
Cons: water and alcohol marks (not good for table tops); apply too thick and it can go sticky and pull off or puddle; needs patience for final shining up unless you use French polish technique.
I wipe on a couple of coats, sanding lightly between to remove raised grain/nibs. Then I might brush on thin coats, leaving 24 hours between each, or just keep wiping on. If pore filling with the shellac (looks great but is wasteful and time consuming) I'll brush coats, level with cabinet scraper once hard, and repeat until the pores are filled (note, there will be shrink back over time).
Final finishing is wet sanding with P100 using white spirit as lubricant, then buff up with T-Cut. This is at least a week after the final coat.
An alternative I use is a shellac base, and then 2 or 3 coats of Tru-Oil on top. This looks more immediately glossy, but loses some depth.
Pros: shows up grain really well, you can get a real depth of finish; low fume/non-toxic; easy to apply if you take it slow.
Cons: water and alcohol marks (not good for table tops); apply too thick and it can go sticky and pull off or puddle; needs patience for final shining up unless you use French polish technique.
I wipe on a couple of coats, sanding lightly between to remove raised grain/nibs. Then I might brush on thin coats, leaving 24 hours between each, or just keep wiping on. If pore filling with the shellac (looks great but is wasteful and time consuming) I'll brush coats, level with cabinet scraper once hard, and repeat until the pores are filled (note, there will be shrink back over time).
Final finishing is wet sanding with P100 using white spirit as lubricant, then buff up with T-Cut. This is at least a week after the final coat.
An alternative I use is a shellac base, and then 2 or 3 coats of Tru-Oil on top. This looks more immediately glossy, but loses some depth.
garethharvey
Established Member
Thanks, I like the look of the shellac, it's on Padauk and I have been using a 1/2Lb cut so applying a few coats. I like the idea of a wax over the top but don't want the ongoing maintenance of applying wax periodically
thetyreman
Established Member
I'd say have at least 3 layers, ideally 4-5 you will find fills in the dead spots, I prefer it very thin but more layers, once dried apply clear wax and buff it, or dark wax on dark woods.
