Shed doors...

[exigetastic]

I'm about to make some shed doors, and I'm looking for some pointers.

The rough opening is 6ft, which is going to be split between 2 3ft (ish) doors.

I have some fire hinges I'd like to use (not keen on the T hinges), so I guess I need some sort of framework.

I'm going to make a simple door frame with some 22mm x 70mm PSE ( this will neaten up the edge of the shiplap on the outside.)

Is it worth doing the same for the doors ?

What sort of thickness total thickness should I aim for ?

Thanks in advance

Si

 

[dirtydeeds]

personally id go for nothing thinner than 32mm finished thickness for the frame


doors

4x2 frame, 6x1/2 ledges and braces, 1/2 T&G


but seeing as you are flexible on the opening width, why not buy the doors and make the frame to suit

 

[Shultzy]

Si, if you have a look on my workshop build you will see the doors I made. They were 4x2 with a shiplap skin. I used fire door hinges on two of them. 4x2 allows for good insulation. BTW my door close with a very solid "clunk"

 

[exigetastic]

Si, if you have a look on my workshop build you will see the doors I made. They were 4x2 with a shiplap skin. I used fire door hinges on two of them. 4x2 allows for good insulation. BTW my door close with a very solid "clunk"

Had a peek at the doors you made up, look spot on 8)

4x2 is a little thick for me, as I've made the rest from 2x2, and the doors would end up thicker than the walls (I could use them the other way round but that seems a little OTT)

In hindsight 4x2 might have been a better option, as 50mm insulation seems more expensive than 100mm :?

The "look I'm going for is something like this...

The gable end would match with a contrasting white window frame, but my MS Paint skills aren't up to doing neat diagonals :lol:

I has thinking of halving joints between the rails and stiles, with the outer faces rebated to accept the shiplap.

As the inner face of the door is going to be skinned with ply, I'm not sure if I need braces / centre rail, but might put some in to be safe.


Si

 

[exigetastic]

but seeing as you are flexible on the opening width, why not buy the doors and make the frame to suit

Where's the fun in that :lol:

Seriously this is a "learning project", I have learnt a lot already (making jigs for trusses, laying concrete bases, pre frabricating frames etc. etc.) I'd like to sit back when it's complete and know "I made that" (little mistakes and all) I have a much bigger version on the cards and this sort of stuff can only help 8)

Si

 

[Shultzy]

Si, I would use halving joints if you are only using 2x2 and definitely a centre rail and diagonal bracing. Even with the skinning, the door could "droop" without the bracing.

 

[George_N]

I have to replace the side door of my garage and I am thinking about making a framed, ledged and braced battened door.

 

[exigetastic]

I have to replace the side door of my garage and I am thinking about making a framed, ledged and braced battened door.

That's exactly what I was thinking of 8) Great site for describing the proper names for the various parts of a door too, would have never know the 2nd top rail was called a frieze rail, or the centre stile was a mutin. So learnt something new already today 8)

They suggest mortice and tennon joints, but having never made those I might stick with halvings for top and bottom rails and housings for middle rail. I'll try out some M+T's when I have a decent workbench up and running in the completed shed :idea:



Si

 

[exigetastic]

Thanks for all the input I've posted the outcome in the projects section!

BTW Slight design change, decided to go for half glazed!


https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20676&start=16

Si