Sharpening query

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Solicitus

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As a complete newby to the world of turning I wonder if someone could advise me as to how best to sharpen the thin parting tool I purchased. I was looking for something to part off turned items hot glued onto a waste block that was slimmer than the marples parting tool that came with my oldish lathe. It comes entirely flat, without any bevel. Would I be correct in saying that I should grind a bevel onto one side of the tool at the end ? I see that some similar tools have the point ground back at an angle. Is this necessary, or desirable ? Any guidance would be appreciated. Sorry if this is a stupid question, there are plenty more to come.

Robert
 

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Hi Robert the tool is designed to be used as it is and they work perfectly well I wouldn't change it well not till you have gained more experience at turning and sharpening as for sharpening it I use a diamond stone on mine it should only need a few rubs personalty I wouldn't use a grinder on it
 
As Woody says, diamond stone on the angled edge, and maybe a wipe on the long edge too will do the trick.

In use, you do need to use two cuts side by side (or overlapping) to avoid the tool grabbing/binding if going more than a few mm deep in my experience, but that's the same for all parting tools unless diamond profile, and even then I still do !

Cheers, Paul
 
Some folks get on better with small bevel ground on the end so that it provides a rubing or support bevel whilst cutting.
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Many thanks for the input - that is much appreciated. Just as well I asked before attacking it with the grinder. I can see the advantage of the bevel, and I might experiment. Plenty more stupid questions in the pipeline.

Robert
 
No such thing as a stupid question as no man knows it all.If you don`t ask you will never learn, so, keep asking and keep learning.
F.
 
I sharpen mine on the grinder with the grind Chas has shown.

Set the grinder tool rest so that it is lined up with the centre of the grinding wheel. Place the blade of the parting tool flat on the tool rest and move across the stone to grind the long bevel. Re-position for the short bevel.
 
Have not needed to touch the long bevel as yet on mine but the short one gets a touch most times before a significant parting off, it's taken 2-3 yrs to grind it that far back.

I find it takes out the need to be so precise on the angle of attack of the blade and reduces the risk of a dig in.
 
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