Setting up a wooden plane

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The_Stig

Established Member
Joined
6 Sep 2008
Messages
475
Reaction score
0
Location
Northamptonshire
I recently acquired a wooden try plane but I have no idea how to set it up as there's obviously no winding wheel just a wooden wedge retaining the blade. I think someone once told me that it's adjusted with a good old tap from a mallet, is this the case?
 
When I took the blade out it had a right big nasty chip in the end of it so I spent nearly an hour last night regrinding it on the wet stone and then flattening it on the diamond stone. Its still not quite perfect but its getting there.

I think I need a new handle for the front of the plane but I'm not sure if there used to be one there so I'll post some pictures up later tonight.
 
The_Stig":3hkjpmnh said:
When I took the blade out it had a right big nasty chip in the end of it so I spent nearly an hour last night regrinding it on the wet stone

In cases like this, it's quicker to either use a power grinder (being damn careful to cool often), or simply a VERY coarse piece of wet 'n' dry (say 60 grit) stuck on a flat surface.

Most normal stones are not coarse enough for major metal removal.

In the old days they'd have used a large sandstone wheel, water cooled, and apprentice powered!

BugBear
 
In the old days they'd have used a large sandstone wheel, water cooled, and apprentice powered!

Last night was a Tormek wet stone job, there is an ordinary metal grinder on the bench but I can't trust myself to firstly get the right angle and secondly not blue the steel so I figured that the softly, softly approach would be better. The previous owner had obviously hit a nail or maybe a large knot whilst it wasn't very sharp. I was surprised at how thick the blade actually was, the steel is that hard that it hardly burrs but we got there in the end.
 
You can do the bulk of the hard grind on the coarse stone - taking care and if necessary dunking it into some cold water to keep it cool, then do the final accurate grind on the Tormek.

I use a Norton 3X in that way - saves a lot of time and effort.

Rod
 
Harbo":j5cqgprt said:
You can do the bulk of the hard grind on the coarse stone - taking care and if necessary dunking it into some cold water to keep it cool, then do the final accurate grind on the Tormek.

I use a Norton 3X in that way - saves a lot of time and effort.

Rod

:sign3:
 
Back
Top