Self build table saw

[momo]

Ok, I think I want to take my old saw and build a new one from the bits.

Would you use box section steel for a case or something else
would you use flat section steel for the top or something else ie the old top bolted to runners attached to the new base ( the top I have is way of flat, but hopefully may be pulled back this way).

would you implement something like a adjustable guide ( ie it can be moved parralel in or out of from the saw on a micro adjuster) front and rear from both sides.

Is there anywhere that has plans for this anywhere as I have sen only one on an aussie site.

 

[wizer]

I wouldn't do any of it. The reason you haven't seen much info on it, is because it's a barmy idea. Keep your fingers and buy a good TS.

 

[momo]

I see nothing Barmy in it, I don't suppose the companies or those who have done it did either. would you tell Philly his planes were barmy ?. Have to start somewhere and something better than I have now can only be a bonus.

 

[Rich]

Momo, pm sent,
Rich.

 

[Digit]

I made my own using a circular saw before replacing it with a cheapo alloy topped thing which was no where near as good.

Roy.

 

[momo]

Thanks Rich.

I am still going to make one though, even if just for the adventure.. I was thinking if I used my top and it came straight I could put it on a cradle as such that supported it and then go ott by welding some bits to the front and rear of that so I can put a home made besi clone fence on it

 

[Digit]

Go get it man!

Roy.

 

[George_N]

Momo, I don't think it is barmy as long as you build in suitable guards etc. There was a recent thread by a guy who built his own bandsaw from the wreckage of an old one that the workshop roof had fallen in on. The Triton workcentre started from the idea of strapping a hand held saw to a table and now Festool, no less, are nicking the idea. The hardest part will be to get something suitable for the table top that will be flat enough and stay that way.

 

[momo]

I am Digit, I already have half the besi clone steel, I got it the other day which is one reason I found my saw was naff. cleaned the welder up as well, surprised it still works after 4 years in storage although the wire was rusty.

Just need to save for the steel needed, according to the guy I got the last lot from he said then that it went up in price today!!. Steel is getting damned expensive now.

 

[Rich]

Momo, I have good deal of 1" box section if you need some. (free)

regards,
Rich.

 

[momo]

George. I was going to build it all encased as is the original one, a box frame with casing around it, the saw itself would just be "plonked" in as is, so that should be safe enough, ( I wish I could draw this thing good enough so you could see my idea) as for the top I was going to go with flat 1/4" steel both sides of the blade like a normal table or get a friend to cut a slot in one big piece with his plasma cutter that would take one of them nice lozenge shaped inserts like you big boys have on your saws.Failing that put my top onto a cradle and use that.

One of my biggest complaints with the macallister is the nvr switch, its in a dumb place under the height wheel which, if your desperate to switch it off is hard to find and use, and theres no accesible place to adjust the tilt mechanism for the blade either.

 

[momo]

Taken Rich, and thanks

 

[Digit]

Take a look at his Momo, you're not on your own.

http://www.nutsnbits.com/nutsnbits_000004.htm

If you Google 'build your own table saw' there's lots of useful info.

Roy.

 

[momo]

Thanks Digit, I did google but not for that, only for like build your own saw or table saw plans.

If a mod is watching I think this should be moved to the projects forum as thats the way its going.......

 

[Rich]

I would'nt be at all surprised if Niki has some input here, the master of invention.
Rich.

 

[Mcluma]

Looking forward to your build MOMO

my dad made his own table saw 40 years ago, we used an old bone saw (my grandad was a butcher, and they used saws way before woodworkers to cut the bones)

as table we used an old drafts board and for guides we used square tubes on either side with and agnle iron between

this thing worked pefect and he used it for more then 20 years

Momo

It would be nice if your current table saw has an induction moter as that will reduce the noise level considerable, and it also will alow for an electronic brake

for table top, the steel is a good idea, but you could easily use a melamine top and then make slots for some aluminium T tracs,

as well i would cut a large hole for a saw insert, which you can then make as a zero clearance insert

you already have a guide you say, so that is the most important part

modify the electrics/switch as much as possible as to make easy access to it, to extent a cable is not difficult

as for the frame, yes you can use square tubing, either welt it together or bolt it together, make sure the table can be adjusted to get it lined up square to the blade

This is not so much a woodworking project, but more a steel working project and should not be more difficult then to build a router table, also look to the abilities to get a good dust extractor in it

and also include a wheel kit with it (which makes it easier to move arround

also look for some outfeed tables (foldable)

Good luck

 

[Benchwayze]

Ok, I think I want to take my old saw and build a new one from the bits.


Is there anywhere that has plans for this anywhere as I have sen only one on an aussie site.

Hi Momo,
The only plans I ever laid eyes on were for means to adapt a portable circular saw for bench use. Most of those have been superseded by the Triton and similar arrangements.

Yes it's possible to use the arbor, and motor from your saw, and I would go the 'angle-iron' route for the 'box'. Weight and rigidity.

If you want a real challenge, send a specialist granite cutting firm your plans for a table-top and get them to cut you one from polished granite. If they can work this stuff around circular kitchens, they should be able to machine you a sawbench table. Never warps, and is as flat as you're ever likely to need. If you can't afford that, try to get a suitable offcut of 18mm thick tufnol. Properly battened that won't warp either.

Just make sure that the saw arbor is adjustable in all planes. You must have at least one the mitre slot absolutely parallel with the saw blade at all depths, and be adjustable, else the saw will never cut true.

Hope this helps.
John

 

[Digit]

From experience Momo, unless other materials are available to you, I would follow exactly as McLuma suggests. It works.

Roy.

 

[ivan]

A bloke who'd built a sliding table saw all of wood (!!) wrote an article on it, which is in one of Taunton's "Fine WoodWorking On" series, it was "FW on Making and modifying machines". There is no tilting arbor. Should give you some ideas. There's also a review, which said 'it rips beter than my sliding table Unisaw, the main difference is the cross cut as the wooden sliding table needs some muscle, like opening a very heavy door.' etc etc. It has wooden rip and mitre fences, and a wide slitter with crown guard in typical US fashion.

 

[kafkaian]

If a permanent fixture, a cheap but very stable pedestal might be carefully shuttered concrete, with hollow for motor and maintenance/vent door with fixings set in place ready for the top plate.

Zany, but you never know