Securing Stud Bolts in Wood.

[Waka]

I have just finished a project and want to insert two stainless steel studbolts into some oak, the idea is to insert the stud bolts about 2" into the base of the wood, there will be about 1" of the stud bolt protruding from the wood. This will then fit into a hole drilled into metal and the wood secured using nuts and washer.

Question is does anyone know how I can secure the stud bolts into the wood so that they a solid?

 

[andys wood shed]

Hi Waka,

What size thread, if its M8 how about these
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsess ... arch=11850

just a thought from the deep Black Country

Regards

Andy

ps not stainless steel though

 

[spadge]

Hi,

You could always use one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 3&id=28157

And a bolt to hold the steel fixture.

Always more than one way to skin a cat.

Cheers

Grahame

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Always more than one way to skin a cat.

As it is going into oak I would be doubtful about using these. My concern relates to the reaction with the oak causing black spots.

Cheers
Neil

 

[Paul Chapman]

Waka, how about drilling through the side, inserting a cross dowel, screwing your rod into that, then plugging the hole where you put the cross dowel. Something like this http://www.woodfit.com/product_info.php ... +30mm+long

If you need a different size, just get some aluminium or brass rod and drill and tap it yourself. Or you could just chop out a hole and insert a nut, although that wouldn't be so easy to plug witout it showing.

The other way of doing it is to glue the stud bolt in with some epoxy resin stuff (not sure of the best types to use but someone probably knows).

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[cumbrian]

Not sure if this would work, but could be worth trying on a scrap. If the stud has a fairly coarse thread, I'm wondering if it would be possible to tap a hole in the oak, and maybe secure further with a smear of epoxy if you never want to dismantle. It also occurred to me that if your stud isn't suitable, it's possible to get stainless studs for fitting into car exhaust manifolds, which might do the job.

Just had another thought, which might be better - A2A4 Fixings have some stainless nut inserts.

I used A2A4 Fixings for the screws I needed to fit my Triton router to a mounting plate, and they were quick on delivery.

 

[BigMac]

Cut a wedge of wood out and replace with a wedge with a bolt stuck through it?

¦....¦
¦ ¦\¦
¦ ¦
¦ ¦/¦
¦....¦

A bit like that with the bolt securely retained at the back of a wedge which could slide in? With a big enough head it would prevent the bolt turning in the wood as well.

 

[inventor]

You're putting studding into the end grain of oak, right?

It's entirely possible to tap the hole, using a standard metalworking tap. I bought a set of big taps (to M24) on ebay for £30, and it works perfectly in wood.

If just tapping into end grain won't be strong enough for you, consider hardening the thread with cyanoacrylate glue, or the wood hardener you're supposed to use on rotten wood before using filler.

If they're still not strong enough, glue the studding into the threaded hole. You might use 2-pack filler, or some cleverer glue.

If they're still not strong enough, use a metal insert drilled through the side of your chunk of wood. But, they're pretty strong!

 

[jasonB]

Why not use these

If not then I have used epoxy (Araldite) in the past.

Jason

 

[engineer one]

waka why can't you drill through the oak, insert a tube, preferably of a non staining metal ( does stainless stain oak?) then nut and big washer at the rear and fix as normal on the metal.??

paul :wink:

 

[Benchwayze]

I wondered about steel and oak and staining.

I don't think it would matter too much in the end grain though, but you could always use a length of plastic plugging tube. So:


How about driving a screw, (with a long plain shank) into the end grain. Then cut off the screw head, and cut a thread on the exposed piece of shank? You won't have a screwdriver slot in the end of the thread then.

Hope this helps
John

 

[Benchwayze]

Just had a thought.
Try a snooker-cue makers suppliers. They must make fittings for these break-down cues and rests.

John

 

[Woody]

If the fixings are good quality Stainless Steel the staining should not be a problem.

I think I would use threaded rod and an epoxy fixing as used for chemical fixings into masonry walls. Screwfix and others sell the stuff in DIY quantities or you can get it in cartridges. However the shelf life is short so don’t buy lots of it to store - false economy.

You will need to make sure the wood is as dry as it can be otherwise as it shrinks the hole will get bigger (especially in end grain) and the fixing is in danger of becoming lose.

The hole can be tapered by waggling the drill about - crude, but effective. This will make the bottom of the hole wider than the entrance preventing the epoxy from pulling out.

Woody

 

[Waka]

Thanks for all the suggestions, kstly one's I'd not thought of. I'm off to the boat tomorrow so will see which is the best method, whatever it is I use it will be stainless steel becasue i don't want any tanning even if it is only on the underside.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[engineer one]

waka if you don't want any tanning, then don't put your bottom in the way :lol: :lol: :twisted:

good luck

paul :wink: