Saw stop

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lurker

Le dullard de la commune
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Rather than continue the hijack on another post, maybe we could discuss the merits of this device here.
Personally I am inclined to agree with Jacob, that it's a solution looking for a problem.
 
"IF" people are still losing fingers on table saws, IMHO its down to:
1. Inadequate supervision in a business environment.
2. lack of personal disciple in a hobby environment .

We have blade guards, riving knifes and push sticks to keep our hands well away from the danger area. A simple cost/ benefit analysis shows those three are available at little or no cost but are hugely beneficial, to the point that you must be quite mad not to use them.

The Saw Stop might have a place in "the land of the free" as they seem to have a pathological disregard to blade guards, but I can't see it will happen here.
Certainly not in a commercial environment as there would be far too much technical validation and subsequent pre-use checking , required by the PUWER regulation, for it to be an acceptable risk control.
 
While we are talking about push sticks, anyone care to post photos of the one they use.
Mine are copies of ones I saw Steve Maskery using.
 
This is mine, it's a lot redder in real life.
 

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Of course we all should be disciplined enough to never need Saw stop, but guess what about 2 weeks ago or maybe it was 2 months ago I took the guard and riving knife off my table saw to cut some half laps. I am yet to put them back on. Yes I use it nearly every day and yes I know this is bad and I should replace them before I use it but the fact is I haven't. If they launched Saw stop in the UK today I would order one tomorrow.
 
large red":emu639wo said:
Of course we all should be disciplined enough to never need Saw stop, but guess what about 2 weeks ago or maybe it was 2 months ago I took the guard and riving knife off my table saw to cut some half laps. I am yet to put them back on. Yes I use it nearly every day and yes I know this is bad and I should replace them before I use it but the fact is I haven't. If they launched Saw stop in the UK today I would order one tomorrow.

Don't imagine I am as saintly in my actions as in my words; I can see myself doing the same as you to a lesser extent. :(
You might like to have a look at this should you need to remove the Guard & RN
tablesaw-rebate-fence-t110884.html
 
lurker":smggoycq said:
Rather than continue the hijack on another post, maybe we could discuss the merits of this device here.
Personally I am inclined to agree with Jacob, that it's a solution looking for a problem.
I first came across SawStop when I lived and worked in Texas nearly twenty years ago. I think the statement you made above needs a qualification as follows: "it's a solution looking for a problem" … if it's for use primarily outside North America.

It has to be remembered that North American woodworkers (and perhaps a limited number in other countries or continents) tend use table saws very differently to, for example, woodworkers in the UK and Europe in general. Essentially, North Americans tend to use their saws for not only ripping and cross-cutting solid wood and board materials, but as a substitute for other machinery, e.g., the spindle moulder and router that are designed to do various tasks usually better and more safely. They also tend to use a long rip fence for most tasks and remove the guards, i.e., the splitter and/or the riving knife and the crown guard, and rarely use the common or garden bird's mouth style pushsticks we here in the UK are familiar with. If they do use devices to keep their fingers away from the spinning blade they tend to be rather convoluted and marginally effective in set up, e.g., featherboards to hold wood down to the table and tight to the fence, and shoe style pushsticks that cause the user to pass their hand over the top of the exposed spinning blade.

What made me wince when I lived in the US was watching some (not all) North American woodworkers doing things I'd never dream of. For example, I frequently witnessed users ripping solid wood into something like 2" wide strips with the saw set up with a full length rip fence, blade at maximum height, no riving knife/ splitter or crown guard, and no push stick of any kind: for the last 6" or 8" of every rip they'd zip the wood past the blade by hooking the fingers of their right hand over the rip fence and use their thumb to push the board. Other strange activities I noted were things like cross cutting narrow panels or boards to length using the full length rip fence as a length stop (good for causing kickback which I witnessed along with injuries in three or four cases), and creating cove type mouldings by passing wood at an angle across the teeth of the sawblade. I saw no end of tenons cut by simply setting up the rip fence to the right distance and passing a piece of wood perhaps 3" wide by 7/8" thick end down over the raised blade - more safety minded woodworkers might make or buy a tenoning jig to either fit over the rip fence or run in the table's grooves. And, for the moment, let's forget dado blades as an issue, which is an operation that can be undertaken safely if set up properly.

My experience of working with North American woodworkers over roughly ten years led me to the conclusion that some of them, admittedly a very small minority, were so cavalier, gung-ho and dismissive of potential safety issues that they do really need someone to take responsibility for their safety out of their hands. However, those woodworkers who are of that mindset are probably those most likely to dismiss SawStop as a sop only fit for ******* and other weaklings unable to outmuscle a stupid machine.

I do think SawStop probably has a very useful role to play in many of the circumstances outlined above, but if you don't use a bench/ table saw that way its usefulness in reducing things like amputations are much diminished, although still likely to be able to offer an extra layer of safety. In other words, use a bench saw, table saw, sliding table saw, etc in the way we tend to use those machines here in the UK, assuming we follow generally agreed safe practices as outlined by, for example, the HSE, and this in itself reduces the chance of injuries both small and large. Slainte.
 
It's intended to work to protect absolutely brainless beginners who have had no instructions, or absolutely incompetent idiots who can't work out or understand the simplest safety measures.

The sawstop can itself be switched on and off I believe.
Could these twerps be relied upon to switch it on? I doubt it.

Could they depend on it being installed on all the machines they use? If not they need to learn some simple safety measures . Then they wouldn't need the sawstop!

The basic pushstick is the best IMHO. Good to use the same pattern all the time so you get used to it. Essential to have two accessible all the time. Good to make copies from ply.
pushstick.jpg
 

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Accidents happen to even the best of us. We have crown guards you could argue that there is no need of the IF your carefull and experienced but the fact of the matter is we all get distracted, we all make mistakes. I honestly hope that some if our more "superor" posters never have to eat a rather painful humble pie!

Apart from the safety advantages the Saw stop (now owned by Festool) looks like a fantastically engineered machine much better than any of the Chinese re badged tat that we get over here.
 
I saw the thread title and thought it was about raised battens on workbenches for crosscutting against! :lol:

lurker":r8cphhex said:
Personally I am inclined to agree with Jacob, that it's a solution looking for a problem.
I agree... if not a solution that even causes more problems!
Airbags, crumple zones, auto-braking, collision avoidance computers, even automatic gearboxes... The more junk like this that cars get, the lazier drivers become and the more chances they take.
The same mentality is prevalent throughout human life, not just on the road.

Do these SawStop things cut in during a kickback too, or just when a finger touches them?
 
Jacob re the bypass switch. The saw's brake is always on unless the key is turned and held for a few moments until the status lights stop flashing. Then you can make your cuts until the saw is turned off. You have to go through the procedure again when you want to re-start for another cut.

It is intended for materials that may setoff the brake like very wet, green or pressure treated wood. To know if the material will set off the brake you need only touch it to the blade before turning the saw on. If the lights flash you don't cut the wood or make the decision to use the bypass mode.

Every time you power up the saw for a work session the braking system goes through a self diagnostic and if everything is functioning properly it will let you work. If there is something wrong the status lights will keep flashing a pattern that informs you as to what the problem is and the saw won't run, even in bypass mode, until the issue is resolved.

You could go to the SawStop site and read the manual if you really want learn and understand it.
https://www.sawstop.ca/support/manuals/ ... binet-saw/

As you can surmise I have one and got it about 10 years ago. At that time I had been using table saws for about 3 decades as a hobbyist. I bought it because my wife wanted to do some woodwork and I didn't want to take a chance of her having an accident when I wasn't around. There is no discount for manicures of less than ten fingers. I learned from my Danish trained father that learned his craft there in the 30's and 40's when there were no guarding on most every machine and from reading a lot of good books. It is a very well made saw and because it is so easy to switch between the riving knife and the splitter/blade guard as needed they always get used.

You don't have to buy one and I really hope when you die of very old age you have all you fingers. I will use the SawStop not because I depend on the brake to protect myself from my own ignorance or arrogance but because it is extra insurance. We drive our cars and have the option of getting minimal insurance or adding on extra coverage. I'm happy with the extra protection the tool offers and I hope to annoy the nurses by picking my nose in my old age. :wink:
 
Tasky the brake only activates when your finger touches the spinning blade. That means in a kickback it won't activate unless you are dragged into the blade. Naturally because of the speed you will have more of a cut but it will never be as bad as if your hand was dragged through in the same event without the brake. If you didn't have the guard on and the anti-kickback pawls weren't there to stop the kickback you'd take it in the gut just like an un-braked saw. But that would never happen because like any well trained woodworker you follow the rules of safety and stand out of the line of fire. :wink:
 
Well a "pro" from someone whose opinion I (over the years) have found credible.

how does the thing "see" your finger before its too late?
Why doesn't the "brake" unscrew the blade nut?
 
Every few months Saw Stop gets raised all over again, maybe one of these threads should just be picked at random and made into a sticky?

sawstop-coming-to-europe-t106283.html

sawstop-news-update-t107060.html

sawstop-uk-imports-t60692.html

ok-how-does-ths-trigger-meat-cutting-saw-stop-t104150.html

Still, I'm not sure we've ever had a post from someone who's actually used the machine, which is a shame because leaving aside the safety aspects it does look superbly built. I think someone once made the point that for the safety device to operate the trunnions in particular would need to be particularly well engineered.

That's an interesting point in the context of table saws, one of the common failings with many saws is the trunnions are misaligned and very difficult to adjust. If the saw blade is fully raised and a workpiece of the maximum capacity fed through you'd hope, even with a cheaper saw, that neither side of the cut shows any scorching. But tilt the blade over to 45 degrees, repeat the exercise, and you'll often find quite a bit of scorching on one side because the blade is misaligned when tilted.
 
The brake basically detects the change between what it is cutting and your flesh. That sets off the brake. Much like touching the leads on a conductivity meter make it beep/move the needle. So it doesn't "see" your finger it "feels" it. You will get anything from a small scratch to a big cut depending how you touch the blade. Feed slowly and you barely get a scratch. Slap the blade and you'll need stitches but there will be less damage than without a brake.

When the brake hits the blade there isn't enough inertia in the nut to spin itself off or even loosen. Even if it did the teeth are so far imbedded in the brake that the blade will be held by it.

Pete
 
custard":ygfzeuor said:
Still, I'm not sure we've ever had a post from someone who's actually used the machine, which is a shame because leaving aside the safety aspects it does look superbly built.....

I guess I don't count eh. :roll:

Pete
 
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