Saw setting

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marcros

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I have a couple of old saws, plus a couple of tenon saws that are not so old- 80s probably. Nothing of any value, so ideal for learning.

Any recommendation on saw setting tools- there seem to be a huge range but are they much of a muchness or is there a model that stands out- my saws are between 4tpi and 6tpi to about 12tpi. I also have a couple of fine saws but they are too good to risk yet- they are 14/16tpi from memory.
 
I've just sharpened my first saw - well jointed, shaped, set and sharpened - and used an Eclipse 77. The saw was a 12tpi backsaw and I used the 12 setting, not because it was 12 tpi but because I recall an 'expert' (Paul Sellers?) said he just uses the minimum setting and it works. I found the setting process very straightforward (unlike the shaping and sharpening!) and would recommend the Eclipse 77.

I have two Eclipse 77s and notice that the plunger sizes are slightly different. So, the one with the smallest plunger will be used on higher pitch e.g. 10+tpi saws and the other on larger toothed saws. I believe the aim is to just push the top third of the tooth (or certainly above half-way) and avoid the base/gullet.

P.S. As kattelwood hints, a good light is a must and possibly magnification for the finer saw teeth would be helpful.
 
As Mike.S says, magnification would help. For finer teeth I use one of those magnifiers that fit on your head and find it very good on the lowest power +1.5. I bought it on ebay, direct from China for £10 including postage and can recommend one.
 
Sorry but there is no perfect saw set. What you really need to do is to collect one of each design shown here then devise your own... :wink:
 
Thanks for putting up that link Andy T - just when you think you my be in relatively unexplored territory you find there's a whole online community and books published on the subject!

Cheerio,

Carl
 
Eclipse 77 FTW!

http://benchblog.com/2013/12/eclipse-77-saw-sets/

This blogs says (or repeats) that the red ones are for finer teeth. I don't think that's (directly) true,
since I've read many old catalogues (including a catalogue by Eclipse) and they never mention
different models.

I think the red ones may just be older, following the rule that (at least for pre 1985 tools) older
tools are better.

BugBear
 
Many saw sharperner and some maker thik the stanley 42x to be the best. I disagree. The Eclipse 77 ist the best. Just turn around the anvil and file your own flat.

http://pedder-altedamenauskiel.blogspot ... y-saw.html
(I used special anvils because the somax are soft, but the ones on the eclipse can be just turned around.)

Cheers Pedder
 
Whilst we are talking saw sets - I have a Buck Hickman one, works well enough for larger saws but it is a bit "agricultural". What is a good approach for 14-20 tpi backsaws ? I've seen the "stick a screwdriver tip between pairs of teeth and twist" approach but I can't say I like it.
 
First let it be said, I have a collection, not a problem.
Of the 7 Eclipse 77's I have, 1 is steel,1 is bronze, 4 are brass, the last and youngest painted alloy.
The steel and bronze both have narrow plungers, the rest wide plungers.
Some have red painted throats, others no paint.
The anvils are numbered 4-12, some are fully numbered (4,5,6,7etc) others are even numbers only.
There appears to be at least 3 different moulds used, going by the casting of the name inside the handles. (ignoring the blue painted youngster.)
I believe the anvil numbers to be reference numbers only and do not refer to teeth per inch. I have used the narrow plungers to set 14-18 tpi dovetail/tenon saws with success.
Only 1 of mine has a date, 1970 a broad arrow ministry date, brass full set of numbers, wide plunger.

Bod
 
Eclipse 77 but check the plunger there are different widths.





The order is swapped in the two photos sorry.

Pete
 
Pete Maddex":q043hqzv said:
Eclipse 77 but check the plunger there are different widths.

The order is swapped in the two photos sorry.

Pete

There seem to be several differences between those two, which may be evidence
for my contention that we're seeing changes over time in a single model, and not between
specific models.

BugBear
 
John15":3kfktat7 said:
For finer teeth I use one of those magnifiers that fit on your head and find it very good on the lowest power +1.5. I bought it on ebay, direct from China for £10 including postage and can recommend one.

I was wondering about those but got confused by the wide choice and concerns expressed about depth of focus. Hhowever, the magnifying glass I ended up using isn't ideal. Can you provide a link or brand name of the one you recommend?
 
Forgive my ignorance here but surely the width of the hammer does not make a difference to the amount of set if the anvils are the same i.e. if set to say 8tpi then the amount the tooth is bent over is the same irrespective of the width of the hammer, in addition the depth of set on the blade is dictated by the bridge between the hammer and anvil, this bridge forms part of the main casting and the end of the hammer should strike approx. at the tooth point

I agree a narrower hammer is more effective on higher tpi saws but that must only be relevant up to the width of the hammer being the same as the width of the tooth. Plus the amount of set required must be in correlation to the width of the blade and not necessarily the number of teeth (unless I am completely wrong set is required to prevent the blade binding in the cut as the cut gets deeper)

For a saw set to be usable on higher tpi saws then the anvil needs a lesser bend at the tooth point (or blade width as the case may be)

Finally I would suggest that rip saws need more set then crosscut saws in relation to the number of teeth as the potential for bind is much greater.

I am aware that Matthew a workshop Heaven supply two very similar looking saw sets one labelled "Somax" one blue and one gold I would be interested if He has some further information relating to the differences in the two as one is up to 10 tpi the other for over 10 tpi
 
katellwood":33uoj8hx said:
I agree a narrower hammer is more effective on higher tpi saws but that must only be relevant up to the width of the hammer being the same as the width of the tooth.

Yes - it's that simple. Some hammers are (much) too wide for a 18 TPI dovetail saw tooth.

For more info, here's an old thread:

post493089.html?hilit=%20anvil%20diagrams#p493089

BugBear
 
swagman":idf5ccmd said:
Hi Mike. This is the one I use and can recommend for saw making work. I use the DA-4 lenses.

http://www.doneganoptical.com/products/optivisor


Stewie;

Stewie,

What do you use for setting the teeth on your saws? It is interesting to have the opinions of makers such as yourself and Peddar, as well as experienced and less experienced sharpeners, particularly when pretty much everybody so far uses the same model of Stanley. You must have set the teeth on the odd saw or two in your time :mrgreen:

Mark
 
eclipse 77 are my choice of weapon if you want a realy realy fine set on your teeth turn over the anvi and just use the pressure of the plunger .
setting a saw only needs to be done abot every 6 / 8 sharpenings the key is to get your saw tuned to war you want it ie topped teeth filed then set it then sharpen it .
after a few good workouts with it all you need to do is just file 1 stroke to keep it in a1 condition.
as for seeing the teeht i got a pai of specks from wilko +3 mag works for me .
also the guys who want to come and learn how to sharpen a saw i am no ready to show you pm me please.
lurcher
 
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