rust prevention

[JWD]

Hi All

I'm looking at investing in some shiny new tools and i'd love to know how everyone keeps the rust at bay if your shop is prone to the elements? I work in a poorly insulated garage and i'm concerned that during winter the changing weather may bring rust.

all advice appreciated, these tools will likely be stored in a drawer somewhere above ground but i havent the foggiest what else i can do.

cheers

Joe

 

[Rorschach]

oil, grease, wax. depends on the tool, how often i use it and how long i want to store it for.

 

[sunnybob]

I am currently trying out Camelia oil. so far (about 2 months) it seems to be ok, but I have had to reapply it. Not a failure, as the rust problem has lessened, but too soon to recommend it to anyone.

 

[thetyreman]

I use camelia oil, don't like the smell of 3 in 1 oil

 

[El Barto]

+1 on camelia oil but also depends on the tool. Otherwise WD40 or 3-in-1.

This stuff is also good: http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-lubr ... ax-ax22593

 

[ED65]

Perennial favourite forum topic this, on all woodworking forums! If you want to read endless pointless debate on the subject do a search and settle in with a mug of coffee. Fair warning: boredom will soon ensue :roll:

Just about anything that has been used to keep rust at bay can still be used if you're inclined that way. This includes tallow, beef dripping, oils of plant origin, liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly or grease, and waxes of one kind or another. But while oils work waxes are better.

Not only are waxes a better water barrier to begin with because they're solids at room temp they're less easily worn away by handling so they persist on surfaces better than oil, any oil, no matter how good its reputation and how high its price tag (I'm looking at you camelia oil).

...these tools will likely be stored in a drawer somewhere above ground but i havent the foggiest what else i can do.

Storing things in cupboards and drawers does help keep rust at bay (and this can be improved upon further by placing a block of camphor inside) but it's not vital to keep tools from rusting in damp conditions.

My tools are all in the open in a kitchen that sees constant use, including regular uses that fog up the windows so not exactly an unchallenging environment for bare steel and iron. I have no problems with rust even on tools that aren't used for months at a stretch with nothing more sophisticated than a thin smear of paste wax on things.

 

[RossJarvis]

Some people like to make a "heated" and ventilated cabinet to prevent rust occurring due to condensation. The simplest is a cupboard with an old fashioned light bulb in it to keep some warmth there. I think some connect this to some sort of temperature sensor or timing circuit to cut back on the lecky bill.

I also use Camellia oil, but you need to remember to use it and re-apply every use of the tool. My hands appear to be highly corrosive, probably due to sweat so they really do need it. It's much cheaper if bought from aromatherapy type suppliers than tool shops.

In truth I tend to do more rust removal than rust prevention with my tools

 

[worn thumbs]

I live about a hundred and fifty yards from a river,in a valley and consequently there is a lot of humidity and potential rust in the workshop.Tools left on the bench for a week or two tend to get a light surface coating of rust and yet any tools kept in the drawers beneath the lathe bench survive unscathed.I have to believe that the wood of the drawer's construction acts as a buffer for moisture by absorbing some of the inevitable humidity in addition to providing a physical barrier.Consequently I advise storing tools in a wooden box or drawers.

 

[jw00d]

I use that Liberon wax mentioned earlier which does the job, plus it has the benefit of reducing friction on my bandsaw table/fence. I do also collect any of those silica packs that they put in when you buy electrical things and chuck a few in my chisel box or drawers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Just4Fun]

I read on another forum that this cat litter:
https://www.bestfriend.com/en/fresh-easy-cat-litter
is the same stuff as you get inside those silica gel packs, and a much cheaper way of obtaining bulk supplies. Apparently Lidl sell it. If true it could be good to put in tool boxes. I haven't tried it myself though so I can't confirm that it works.

 

[El Barto]

I also use Camellia oil, but you need to remember to use it and re-apply every use of the tool. My hands appear to be highly corrosive, probably due to sweat so they really do need it. It's much cheaper if bought from aromatherapy type suppliers than tool shops.

Does it make a difference that it doesn't contain paraffin when not bought from a tool shop?

 

[ED65]

I read on another forum that this cat litter:
https://www.bestfriend.com/en/fresh-easy-cat-litter
is the same stuff as you get inside those silica gel packs, and a much cheaper way of obtaining bulk supplies. Apparently Lidl sell it. If true it could be good to put in tool boxes. I haven't tried it myself though so I can't confirm that it works.

This may be a case of confusing the basic chemical description with something's properties. Diatomaceous earth (what I presume is the "diatomaceous sand" listed in your link) and silica gel are both forms of silicon dioxide but they're quite different, with distinct properties.

 

[Tasky]

The simplest is a cupboard with an old fashioned light bulb in it to keep some warmth there.

Just wanted to reiterate ^that part, since the wife has just ruined £80 of top quality beef because she used an energy-saving bulb in the biltong box, which works the same way. Needs to be an old style filament bulb for the heat, not energy saving or LED!!! :roll:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I also use Camellia oil, but you need to remember to use it and re-apply every use of the tool. My hands appear to be highly corrosive, probably due to sweat so they really do need it. It's much cheaper if bought from aromatherapy type suppliers than tool shops.

Does it make a difference that it doesn't contain paraffin when not bought from a tool shop?

Camelia is camelia oil - it doesn't contain paraffin no matter where you buy it.

 

[El Barto]

I also use Camellia oil, but you need to remember to use it and re-apply every use of the tool. My hands appear to be highly corrosive, probably due to sweat so they really do need it. It's much cheaper if bought from aromatherapy type suppliers than tool shops.

Does it make a difference that it doesn't contain paraffin when not bought from a tool shop?

Camelia is camelia oil - it doesn't contain paraffin no matter where you buy it.

"Supplied in a pump action spray bottle, this Camellia oil is blended with paraffin oil..."

Taken from here: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+knives-kni ... nds+jp2100

 

[JohnPW]

"Supplied in a pump action spray bottle, this Camellia oil is blended with paraffin oil..."

Taken from here: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+knives-kni ... nds+jp2100

That shouldn't be just called "camellia oil". I think most people, when they see a bottle of "camellia oil", would expect it be be 100% camellia oil.

At £60 per litre, it would be much cheaper to buy it anywhere else except from a tool shop.

 

[El Barto]

Axminster also blend it with something but don't specify what:

"Natural vegetable oil blended with low viscosity light oil"

 

[Jacob]

Camellia oil just another expensive fashion - somebody read somewhere that Japanese samurai sword makers use camellia oil and it's gone viral!
I suspect the Jap tool makers probably use it because in Japan it's cheap and not much use for anything else. But it's not cheap here though it's still not much use!

Storing them fairly airtight and warm would do it.
If you must use oil then raw linseed is the best. It sets fairly hard but rubs off the edge/bevels/teeth when the tool is used. On the sides of a saw blade it seems to polish up and stay in place for a long time. You can put it on top of existing rust - it stops it getting any worse and polishes up with use.

 

[Seiken]

And linseed oil is less than £4 a litre, cheaper than a pint in my local.

 

[Bod]

Using raw linseed oil, how long would it take to dry?
Sufficient not to run off, on tools being placed in long term storage. (2-5 years dry professional self store. Not ex-shipping container.)
I'm beginning to look toward the day when I will have to pack up my workshop for storage, and am looking to prevent the rust I have removed, from returning!

Bod