Routing oak table top - advise

[Lee J]

have a slab made up of oak boards which is 1" thick. I have a template of a kidney shaped table top made from Ply. If I draw around the template and bandsaw/jigsaw as close to the line as I dare, then stick the template on top and with a flush trim router bit go around the edge to clean up, do I need to worry about direction of grain?

 

[Chrispy]

No, what you said will be fine, but do use a nice sharp cutter it makes a lot of difference.

 

[Steve Maskery]

That is a very good question. And the answer is - it depends. You might get away with it, but you will probably have some tearout where you are routing against the grain.
However, you have a pretty good chance of doing this with no tearout at all.

Stick the template to one side and do all the sections where you are routing with the grain, but leave the rest untouched.

Then remove the template and stick it to the other side. You can line it up very well using the areas that are already identical to your template. You can then rout the remaining areas, which will now also be with the grain.

Let us know how you go on.
S

 

[CHJ]

Direction of travel of the cutter is most important, do not climb mill.

 

[SurreyHills]

1" is quite thick, so take it in light passes. As others have said the grain direction will make it more difficult, if you think it's going to be a problem just make the initial bandsaw cut a bit generous around these areas. Then have a trial run and if it does show signs of tear-out you've still got room to refine the profile using something a bit easier to manage, e.g. a spokeshave.

 

[Myfordman]

There is always a temptation to slow the rate of travel round the template when you get to a tricky bit and this will lead to burning.

I tend to wind a little masking tape around the guide bearing for the first cut this will cut the workpiece slightly larger than the template.
Then remove the tape and go round again quite quickly, this will trim to final size and if there was any burning, should remove it.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As above - I was just about to suggest two different bearings.

 

[Lee J]

thanks guys. I'll be on with this at the weekend. I've got me a brand new cutter just for the job.

I like the taped bearing idea too. I'll try that as well.

I'll also do the tip from Steve MAskery too, changing the side for the template to make sure I run with the grain.

cheers for the advise.

I'll do a WIP for the project next week. It's a kidney-ish shaped coffee table in European oak.

 

[JakeS]

Then remove the template and stick it to the other side.

While this is a great idea and will undoubtedly work, for those of us who are paranoid about getting things exactly the same from both sides it's probably also worth pointing out that you can get router cutters with the bearing at the top and also router cutters with the bearing at the bottom. ;-)

(No particular endorsement here, I just happened to remember seeing them:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/workshop-&-po ... im-bit-set )

Like that, you wouldn't have to move the template at all - just flip the workpiece+template over still attached and use a cutter with a bearing at the other end.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Indeed, Jake, but most of us don't have such exotic cutters.
At least, I don't.
But I do agree it's an excellent solution.
S

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I used milling cutters for my oak block worktops they are spiral ground so shear cut and leave a very nice finish.
This one looks nice http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251183146199? ... 1423.l2649
I have a few Carbide mills and they stay sharp for a very long time.
Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you use a simple mould like an ovolo, if you run the router around before you finish the top, leave the router set and run it around again after the top is finished, you will effectively have dropped it a few thou and it will give a really fine finishing cut. Conversely, if you use a cutter with a more complex shape ( like an ogee, where you can't move it in two planes ), you can run the router around the basic shape which will leave you an edge that's only a few mil wide to finish, then run your router again for a very fine final cut.

 

[marcros]

Pete,

you recommended a HSS 1/2" slot drill once before which I bought and found to be very clean cutting too on oak- and only about £7 IIRC from ebay (I think). Presumably sooner or later it will want a tickle up with a diamond file, but so far so good. The carbide one is more expensive but wont need sharpening.

 

[Racers]

Hi, marcros

They do work well don't they, I have a 1/4" carbide that I have earmarked to use the shaft as a scraper burnisher once its blunt, but it keeps on going.

Pete

 

[davin]

Not cheap, but thoroughly reccomend these.

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... m_270.html

davin

 

[jasonB]

1+ But in the long therm they work out very economically, use mine all the time. Plus with a bit of jiggery pokery you can profile material upto 100mm deep

J